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MY stab-o-shoc replacement

yes. there are also many grades of bolts also.

Well, yes, of course there are many grades of bolts!! I was required to memorize (ouch) these (both SAE and Metric) in one of my engineering classes, 30 + yrs ago!!! But to have common brackets graded, nope, not unless used by military of aerospace/NASA. A supervisor at JPL (Jet Propulsion Lab Pasadena, Ca) would tell me to only bring back mil-spec grade H/W for a given project, "but Boss, this is just a test mule (platform)!!!!!
 
I kind of like this idea. I have a spare stab-o-shock that is good that I was going to install in my SE but this seems a bit more what I am looking for.
 
I kind of like this idea. I have a spare stab-o-shock that is good that I was going to install in my SE but this seems a bit more what I am looking for.

I agree, much more in keeping with the limiting of drivetrain 'wrap' as in the vein of the aftermarket performance pieces previously mentioned in this post.
 
Bill, if you want to see an example of an old Bradness "streetlink", you could take a peek at mine while it's up on a lift at Shorty's garage. Along with 94A front and rear mounts, it was part of my quest to minimize wheel hop while practicing driving upgrades at Woodburn and PIR... back when I could afford to risk breaking something. But the half axles always survived. And thank goodness for Quaife and THMS. Just for daily driving I would HIGHLY recommend a front mount insert, I had one put in before going gonzo and not having the motor flop around as much while doing shifts was a major improvement.
 
Bill, if you want to see an example of an old Bradness "streetlink", you could take a peek at mine while it's up on a lift at Shorty's garage. Along with 94A front and rear mounts, it was part of my quest to minimize wheel hop while practicing driving upgrades at Woodburn and PIR... back when I could afford to risk breaking something. But the half axles always survived. And thank goodness for Quaife and THMS. Just for daily driving I would HIGHLY recommend a front mount insert, I had one put in before going gonzo and not having the motor flop around as much while doing shifts was a major improvement.

BOB - Yes, I need to take a look at your, while it's up on the lift, at Shorty's. I can so relate to your quest to minimize "motor flop"; this is what I did to my '86 GTI and it is fantastic even in everyday driving - shifting so much more precise and feels like I bolted on 20HP!!! Yes, I have the insert for the SVT's front RR; just need to install it.
Get me an address and time, and we will connect up. Maybe even get AF to join us!
 
You know there are aftermarket 'performance' replacements for these. Just do a google search for engine damper, NRG engine damper, or even better engine torque damper. You'll find a ton. Here is just an example...

https://www.getnrg.com/products/under-hood/engine-damper

It's on the expensive side but there are some on eBay that are knock off's that are lower in cost. Either way this will actually provide dampening as opposed to a solid link.

EDIT:

Here is a pic.

EDA-510CF.jpg


EDIT 2:

Found this pic of one of these things taken apart. Kind of interesting. They are not fluid filled like the Stab-o-shoc OEM piece, but rather they use rubber iso-mounts.

Engine_Torque_Damper.jpg
 
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I have never ran the staboshock on either of my svts its pointless to me vut hey I'm not a engineer

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2
 
I have never ran the staboshock on either of my svts its pointless to me vut hey I'm not a engineer

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2

If you have an Energy Suspension insert in your front RR, you don't need a Stab-O-Shoc.

Turn off your dopey Tapatalk auto-signature.

Sent from my Apple iMac 3.1 GHz Intel Core i5 with 4 GB 1333 MHz DDR3 RAM, Mac OS X 10.7.4. TM and © 1983-2012 Apple Inc. All Rights Reserved.
 
My '93 Ranger 4.0 has a worn sos, and it also has ES mounts at all 3 points. Still need sos do to ecessive engine movement. Of course rwd vs fwd.
 
Just as a mechanical engineering point of order, the engine mounts and rubber roll resistors are the ultimate limiters of the amount of engine movement, the dampers, or Stab-O-Shocks, limit rate-of-change, and are there to damp any oscillations that might build up under unusual driving conditions.

One thing to be aware of is that Ford used less compliant (stiffer) engine mounts in the early rod shifted cars because they had to, as there's only so much coupling you can do with the shift equalizer rod that runs between the transaxle and the shifter in the passenger compartment. In a (front drive) rod shift car, the shifter has to move with the transaxle case, or it gets mighty difficult to hit the shift gates, the equalizer rod helps the shifter and transaxle case move as one unit.

There were customer complaints of NVH with the early rod shift cars, so Ford went to a more expensive cable shift so they could soften up the engine mounts and quell the NVH issues.

Things are a whole lot easier when the shifter sticks out the top of the transmission through a hole in the transmission tunnel.
 
im kind of amazed at the feel the cables have. i like them over the say the sho rod shift. something about the way they move into gear. the rod shifters are more vague somehow. i was looking at how it works and theres 1 rod for the front and sideways movements.

maybe the way the torque is absorbed by the pull of the cable doesnt call for the firm mounts.

as for the other cables on the car like the imrc and throttle, again im amazed that they work as they should. kind of just hang around and pull fairly accurate instead of torquing all over the place.
 
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