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My LX is getting a new heart - 3.0L swap

Make sure you have a wrench on the p/s side too... and then make it pretty damn tight. Then fire it up and if it's leaking, tighten it a little more.

For the nylon washer, I didn't use a special tool. I moved it on, pushing it over 1 thread on each side at a time. Also, make sure the p/s hose is straight. If it's at a little angle, the washer can get caught get ruined.
 
Make sure you have a wrench on the p/s side too... and then make it pretty damn tight. Then fire it up and if it's leaking, tighten it a little more.

For the nylon washer, I didn't use a special tool. I moved it on, pushing it over 1 thread on each side at a time. Also, make sure the p/s hose is straight. If it's at a little angle, the washer can get caught get ruined.

Sweet. Thanks for the info. I got 3 bolts and 5 washers just incase.
 
Ok, so I was excited to arrive home after work today. I saw a small envelope that contained the shifter alignment tool Starjammir has loaned me. I got the tune from Joey and was all set to get the car rolling. While adjusting the cables using the tool, I just couldn't get the cables adjusted for the life of me. SOooooooooooo, after a minute of searching, I found the problem......

.....Broken cable clamps that clip into the c-bracket on the tranny. I remember a popping when we were pulling the engine, and BAD SVT looked under and saw the cables were free. Know I know just how free they were :cry:

So now I'm on the hunt for replacement shifter cables and the tune is on hold for a week or two...
 
Yeah... I tried to fit them back in as best I could, but I guess there is alot of cable tension. When you're pulling the tranny, I think it's better to take the 2 bolts off that hold that entire bracket to the tranny, instead of popping the cables off of the bracket.
 
Ok, so I was excited to arrive home after work today. I saw a small envelope that contained the shifter alignment tool Starjammir has loaned me. I got the tune from Joey and was all set to get the car rolling. While adjusting the cables using the tool, I just couldn't get the cables adjusted for the life of me. SOooooooooooo, after a minute of searching, I found the problem......

.....Broken cable clamps that clip into the c-bracket on the tranny. I remember a popping when we were pulling the engine, and BAD SVT looked under and saw the cables were free. Know I know just how free they were :cry:

So now I'm on the hunt for replacement shifter cables and the tune is on hold for a week or two...


lol your minute of searching was a phone call to me.
 
lol your minute of searching was a phone call to me.

And I truly appreciate that minute! I sent the PM you suggested, and also posted a WTB in the performance section. Worst case scenario, Steve @ Toulsey can get me the new style cable with round ends for $100 shipped. At this point it doesn't really matter what end I have, as the square style ends are become harder to order new.
 
Ok, so I was excited to arrive home after work today. I saw a small envelope that contained the shifter alignment tool Starjammir has loaned me. I got the tune from Joey and was all set to get the car rolling. While adjusting the cables using the tool, I just couldn't get the cables adjusted for the life of me. SOooooooooooo, after a minute of searching, I found the problem......

.....Broken cable clamps that clip into the c-bracket on the tranny. I remember a popping when we were pulling the engine, and BAD SVT looked under and saw the cables were free. Know I know just how free they were :cry:

So now I'm on the hunt for replacement shifter cables and the tune is on hold for a week or two...

Oh snap! Thats what that was! The cable bracket must've somehow got caught back up in there again.

Yeah... I tried to fit them back in as best I could, but I guess there is alot of cable tension. When you're pulling the tranny, I think it's better to take the 2 bolts off that hold that entire bracket to the tranny, instead of popping the cables off of the bracket.

Thats not a bad idea. Never thought about doing it that way as i've never had a problem with those cables. By all means lemmy know if u need directions chas. Really sorry about the cables. I thought i had them popped off.
 
If there was no risk of breaking anything, it would be too easy... and wouldn't be as much fun :)

So you said you loaded up Joey's tune.. how does it run (just the motor)? Everything is done now except replacing those two cables?
 
If there was no risk of breaking anything, it would be too easy... and wouldn't be as much fun :)

So you said you loaded up Joey's tune.. how does it run (just the motor)? Everything is done now except replacing those two cables?

I didn't get the tune in yet. After I saw the cables, I lost motivation for the day and went to bed. I'll probably pop off the cables tonight and manually put it in neutral, and then load the tune.
 
Ok folks, here's the latest. I replaced my yellow and flaking radiator overflow tank with an almost new one. Wow, what a difference it makes visually!

I replaced my leaking oil pressure switch. Thankfully I was able to get at it without removing the AC compressor.

I cut off the old leaking PS nut. I did end up nicking the line, even though I was very cautious and took my time. I cleaned and filled the nick with black RTV, and let it sit for 24hrs. I installed the new nut, plugged in the hard line, and......

....so far.....NO leaks!!! I was pretty upset when I saw the nicked line, but I figured that I could always replace the whole line with the one from NAPA for $30. If it doesn't hold I'll go that route, but I think it will be fine.

So after all that I ran out of things to do, so I decided to load the tune. It went like planned, and the car didn't explode :) However, is doesn't idle quite right. It gets rough below 1K, and will die fairly often. I tested the TPS, it reads 0.97V at idle, and 4.67V at WOT. I did a quick vacuum check with carb cleaner, no changes.

At this point I need to get a vacuum gauge set up and see if it's holding around 18 at idle on the gauge. If it is, then I'll ask Joey to review the tune after we data log.

Any ideas on what I can check next?
 
Above 1k rpm it smooths out? At higher rpm does it run like it should?

If so, it might be your IAC. Try starting the car with it plugged in, and also with it unplugged -- see if there's a difference.
 
Above 1k rpm it smooths out? At higher rpm does it run like it should?

If so, it might be your IAC. Try starting the car with it plugged in, and also with it unplugged -- see if there's a difference.

Yeah, above 1K it sounds good, and is pretty smooth.

I'll try that. I have 2 IACs, the one that came with the SVT UIM (currently on the car) and the one that was stock on my 2.5L intake. Rockauto lists 2 motorcraft ones. Does it matter which one I use?

The one that came with the SVT UIM is probably very dirty, as the UIM was before I cleaned it. I didn't think to clean the IAC. If either one will work, i'll swap them over, or get a new one from Autozone - $44
 
I'm not really sure, but my assumption would be that both the SVT and non-SVT IAC's are identical.
 
Ok folks, here's the latest. I replaced my yellow and flaking radiator overflow tank with an almost new one. Wow, what a difference it makes visually!

I replaced my leaking oil pressure switch. Thankfully I was able to get at it without removing the AC compressor.

I cut off the old leaking PS nut. I did end up nicking the line, even though I was very cautious and took my time. I cleaned and filled the nick with black RTV, and let it sit for 24hrs. I installed the new nut, plugged in the hard line, and......

....so far.....NO leaks!!! I was pretty upset when I saw the nicked line, but I figured that I could always replace the whole line with the one from NAPA for $30. If it doesn't hold I'll go that route, but I think it will be fine.

So after all that I ran out of things to do, so I decided to load the tune. It went like planned, and the car didn't explode :) However, is doesn't idle quite right. It gets rough below 1K, and will die fairly often. I tested the TPS, it reads 0.97V at idle, and 4.67V at WOT. I did a quick vacuum check with carb cleaner, no changes.

At this point I need to get a vacuum gauge set up and see if it's holding around 18 at idle on the gauge. If it is, then I'll ask Joey to review the tune after we data log.

Any ideas on what I can check next?

I like the progress. This thing should be on the road very soon:). Try cleaning up the IAC and post results.
 
Ok, so the shift cables arrived today. I should have them in this weekend.

I swapped the IACs and cleaned the LX one before I put in on. I used a small amount of black RTV on the gasket, as I had to reuse it, as they don't sell just the gasket at the local stores.

I also cleaned the MAF, just in case it was dirty. I did have a problem with the larger vacuum hose that goes to the brake booster. The nipple that goes into the UIM cracked a little when I was removing it to get to the lower IAC bolt. I hate AZ weather for plastic pieces, but love it for metal parts :) A little super glue should hold until I find a replacement piece.

I'll start it up tomorrow, and we'll see if that fixes the idle problem. I'll also get on posting pics.....I've been lazy on that part of this thread.
 
So I reconnected my super glued vacuum line and fired her up. At first she was acting the same, so I figured that I would let her run, and keep the RPM's above 1K. After a minute, she did calm down and slowly hovers between 750-1200 RPM, but putters below 1K still.

At this point I hoping it's just a rich tune, as I can't think of much more to check/change. I'll get the shift cables in hopefully later today, and then I can run the full data logging for Joey, so we can get the final tune, and eliminate that part of the equation.

She does sound very nice above 2500 rpm :) and still no more signs of leaks so far!!!
 
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