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My LX is getting a new heart - 3.0L swap

If I remember correctly, I used the threaded and non-threaded holes. I just put the motor on the ground, lined up the 4 braces on the stand mount, and brought the original bolts to Ace Hardware. Then got longer bolts and nuts (where needed).
 
morbid said:
If I remember correctly, I used the threaded and non-threaded holes. I just put the motor on the ground, lined up the 4 braces on the stand mount, and brought the original bolts to Ace Hardware. Then got longer bolts and nuts (where needed).
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Same here. I used both threaded & non-threaded. U'll see which ones to place where when u get the engine on the stand. I dont know how u'd do that with the engine on the floor tho. I think its better to keep the engine hanging freely on the hoist while u try & place it at the level where u can thread the bolts into it. An extra pair of hands will make it much easier.
 
I removed the mount part from the engine stand, bolted it on, hoisted the engine back up, then put the mount back on the stand. I pulled the motor before I had a stand though.
 
morbid said:
I removed the mount part from the engine stand, bolted it on, hoisted the engine back up, then put the mount back on the stand. I pulled the motor before I had a stand though.
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That's the way I'll be doing it. I got (2) M10x1.5 80mm bolts for the two top threaded holes, and an assortment of 3/8 bolts in various lengths with nuts & washer for the two non-threaded bottom holes.
 
So the 3L fired up today :eek:

We couldn't drive it as there is an adjustment/alignment issue with the new shift tower end we installed, as the old black insert in the white end was half gone :shocked: and Joey @ Nautilus dosen't have my PCM code on file for the tune, so I'm searching for a different one we can use.

It sounds good when running but won't idle by itself, and we have a leak at the power steering captive bolt on the hard line. I'll search for Blu-fuz's thread where it gives the part# for just the bolt, and just cut the old one off with a dremel.

I can't give a big enough thank you to Morbid and Nezer for coming down on Saturday, without there help we wouldn't have met our Sunday deadline - SO THANKS GUYS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Apart from that (and excluding BAD SVT's extra-human strength with crank bolts :D) the build was fun and I learnt ALOT about my cars.

I'll keep the thread updated with info about the tune and shifter/cable ends alignment as I find out more.
 
It was great to finally meet you and BAD SVT! It was fun... and you made some great food.

Are you able to stuff a short length of hose in your shifter end for the time being? Also, is the p/s bolt you're talking about the one on the tube with the pressure sensor?
 
Yeah the line that passes around the upper mount. The Teflon taped threads are holding, it's the captive oring that's meant to seal the inner tube that's leaking :(

The shifter ends have been replaced with new ones, but aligning the cables was the problem. Thankfully, Starjammir is going to loan me his shifter alignment tool.
 
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Chas said:
Yeah the line that passes around the upper mount. The Teflon taped threads are holding, it's the captive oring that's meant to seal the inner tube that's leaking :(

The shifter ends have been replaced with new ones, but aligning the cables was the problem. Thankfully, Starjammir is going to loan me his shifter alignment tool.
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The P.S leaks still? I thot we took care of that...
 
BAD SVT said:
The P.S leaks still? I thot we took care of that...
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I thought so too, but when I went out to the garage later I saw the drip was back, although at a lesser state, but still there :(

Dremel to the rescue!
 
Have you tried tightening it a little more? I thought the nut sealed the back side of the tube by pressure.
 
morbid said:
Have you tried tightening it a little more? I thought the nut sealed the back side of the tube by pressure.
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It's pretty damn tight, but I can see if I can get it a little bit more.
 
Chas said:
we have a leak at the power steering captive bolt on the hard line. I'll search for Blu-fuz's thread where it gives the part# for just the bolt, and just cut the old one off with a dremel.
Click to expand...

I had the same problem with mine.....I used blu-fuz's thread also for the part number. The bolt is rather cheap and only takes about 15 min to dremel and change. We just need pics!
 
svttour said:
so whats going on with the car?
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Waiting for the shifter alignment tool from Starjammir and the tune from Joey. Problem with the tune is we're trying to find a similar PCM code, as mine is not in SCT's database. I'm calling Joey today to see what SCT said.

I sent the payment for the vacuum bundle.
 
Ah... ok. After lots of searching, I found blu_fuz's thread for what you're talking about. I never knew there was an o-ring in there... let alone that it could leak from there.

When you get that new fitting, can you post pics of it? I get the general idea of what it is from all the text descriptions... but I haven't seen any pics of it yet.
 
Yeah, I'll post pics :)
Do you have the link to that thread handy still?
 
Quick question for the experts. From my experience with mustangs, an 80mm MAF is somewhat factory for 24lb injectors, could I use an 80mm MAF and make the car somewhat drivable until the tune?

And if so, should I keep the 80mm MAF when it is finally tuned, or does it hurt performance being so big on a NA car?
 
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