How to tell if secondaries are working properly?

[F111D F]

Clarify & applogy for the headache guys!

Clarify & applogy for the headache guys!

Just sent off a query to Jenkins or now Bill Reed on the teamfordparts in Nevada. Hopefully find out what this actuator really is? I did get the IMRC's latest part # 2S7Z-9J559-AA retail $304 and $177 aprox from the web site.
I'm going to try to repair mine, with 2n6045g (8 amp 75 watt) and to-220 mounting kit from Allied Electronics.
While I have it all apart the IC is getting replaced (LM1949N-ND-"IC CONTROLLER INJECTOR DRV 8-DIP") $4.35 plus shipping from Digi-Key.
Study Corp. must have used this IC to design the IMRC around or had National design the IC for the them? http://www.national.com/ds/LM/LM1949.pd
So far the connector has been the toughest to remove from the housing without damaging. Whew got ii out and resoldered (very carefully) to the board. I'm planning on mounting the transistor with short jumpers soldered, then the hard part inserting the jumpers into the board/soldering, then mounting the board into final position. There appears to be cavity under the board transistor (position) to safely position the jumpers out of the way.
I do have Allied Electronics part #'s if anyones interested, it will save many hours of searching.
I swapped the IMRC from the spare Mystique, I must be crazy, but early forced retired fixed budget if I want my one and only vehicle for daily use, it becomes necessary. Oh I still find using the scan tool to tell the PCM to activate outputs and then watch PID"S. #93 "IMRC_F - goes no to yes when commanded, #94 "IMTV is communications fault detected it should be "No", #100 "IMRCP1 unit of measure I don't know but not operated 1023.00 and operated usually approx. 142.00.
My Tear Tag I think is "Kca3" (built 07/97) I have the software Ford part numbers somewhere and note this does not follow what's in the Ford 98 CD?????????? I sure makes a pain but maybe it's because I don't have or can't afford the Ford NGS laptop. I do need to see what PID's my back up has a tear tag "AZB0" built 08/98. I have feeling is the same as far as the IMRC concerned. Later
Update the AZB0 has the same pid's however disregard the #'s something to my scan tool software, at yea another to do. Write Peppel Also missed "IMRC" pid on previous = on\off PCM request to IMRC.
Also the IMRCCP1 is a voltage and this #1023 0r 142 is only decoded by Ford's NGS laptop.
Don't you just love proprietary?

 

[98SE+EXTRAS]

My advice. If yours is totally dead. Buy one of TX00SVT's new used IMRCs and relocate the box to the firewall. Done and done.

You could also do what I'm doing and order some new transistors and just wait for the IMRC to finally bite it and then swap out the transistor. I've got 4 TIP122s sitting right in front of me ready to go.

I was thinking about a new transistor since I'm super poor. I just cant get the darn circuit board out of the box. That glue is so hard and strong around the connector to the PCM.

 

[Tex]

Use a hot knife to scrape away the glue. I like to use a soldering iron with a blade tip made for cutting rope to keep it from fraying. After a little work with that, hold the case with one hand, place a screw driver diagonally between the top of the cable exit and the bottom of the connector housing. It should push right up and come out if you do it properly. Make sure that you've removed the nylon screw holding the transistor down.

 

[F111D F]

Use a hot knife to scrape away the glue. I like to use a soldering iron with a blade tip made for cutting rope to keep it from fraying. After a little work with that, hold the case with one hand, place a screw driver diagonally between the top of the cable exit and the bottom of the connector housing. It should push right up and come out if you do it properly. Make sure that you've removed the nylon screw holding the transistor down.

Try un-soldering the six pins where the connector connects to the board and remove the nylon screw from the transistor and with screws removed the board will come out. Then you work on the connector. I removed my connector and then re-solded it back to the board.