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How to tell if secondaries are working properly?

9

98SE+EXTRAS

CEG'er
Joined
Jul 27, 2008
Messages
37
Location
Phoenix AZ
I want to know if my secondaries are working as they should. I know that I should "feel" and "hear" the difference at about 3500 RPMs. But I want to know if there is a way that I can see if they're opening. I'm a little nitpicky and I want to ease my concern.

Anything?
 
98SE+EXTRAS said:
I want to know if my secondaries are working as they should. I know that I should "feel" and "hear" the difference at about 3500 RPMs. But I want to know if there is a way that I can see if they're opening. I'm a little nitpicky and I want to ease my concern.

Anything?
Click to expand...

Like I told you in your other thread. Put your junk back together and rev at full load while looking at the bracket on the lower intake manifold.
 
Last edited:
TX00SVT said:
Like I told you in your other thread. Put your junk back together and rev at full load while looking at the bracket on the lower intake manifold.
Click to expand...


I'm pretty sure it didn't move. I was following the cable from the IMRC to the bracket and i did not notice movement from it at all. It seems to ba attached by a little plastic piece.


Could the electrical connection to the IMRC be bad?
 
You'd better hope not. Throwing a new IMRC on is a lot easier. Here are the pinouts to test with a multimeter.

imrcpinoutsoo2.gif
 
Awesome, thanks for the schematic.


Now I want to do this right, I'm assuming the car needs to be at 4000+ RPMs while I'm testing it? Because if not then, well the secondaries wouldn't open anyway.


So I'll put the negative lead on my DMM on ground and Start putting the positive lead in the pin holes?

1 should be hot
2 should be hot
3 should be 0 V

What should 5&6 be?

Thank you.
 
Just to make sure there is no confusion on my end. What I have circled is what the linkage from the IMRC goes to. Is this correct? It does not move when I rev the engine up.

The pink is what doesn't move, the green is the general path of the cable from the IMRC

P5040217.jpg
 
Yes, that part should rotate, and the little silver rod that you see there should move towards the rear of the car as it turns, in order to open the front bank.
 
Well I guess I'll go out tomorrow and experiment with the RPMs so I don't annoy my neighbors tonight. Hopefully I didn't hold the throttle open long enough to trigger the IMRC.
 
I know how you feel. Somebody is interested in one of my IMRCs, but wants me to test it first (understandable). My car is a littttttle loud.
 
Well upon closer flashlight inspection, is appears that the bar isn't going to the front secondaries. So I guess I'll tackle that issue tomorrow. I got some good ideas for that from a couple threads here.
 
Alright, I Drove it around for 20 minutes then parked it and had someone hold the RPMs at about 4200-4300 for 5 seconds. No movement of any sort from the secondaries. I'm going to try it later when the engine's cold to see if it makes a difference.
 
Unplug the electrical connection on the box, and rip around the neighborhood for a while. If they were working before, you should notice a HUGE performance hit. If you notice no difference, you have a failed IMRC.
 
Huge performance hit meant struggled to get above 4000-5000 under load in my experience. My 3L could do OK, but the stock SVT was like dragging a sled behind the car.
 
TX00SVT said:
You'd better hope not. Throwing a new IMRC on is a lot easier. Here are the pinouts to test with a multimeter.

Has anyone priced an IMRC lately????? Unless someone has personal access to the manufacture,I had that info long ago unfortunately crash Hard Drives later.
Ford wants 5x-6x times what it was originally! Known as actuator Jenkins price only $976.49 and only $731.59 SVT. Didn't know there was a difference?
I've been ,having this trouble, just hours ago dead no explosion when wide open. HOWEVER, using scan toll to operate the IMRC works fine????? There was a P1519 (bank 1) stuck closed which is an error cause there is nothing in place to tell the PCM bank 1 or 2. correct me if I'm wrong but the circuit to do this is inside the IMRC. At least on my Mistake.
It's done this 3 time this month and get home get the laptop out, using OBD-2.com Alex Pepel soft and interface. Go to Ford Test/enhanced "output test for low & high fan ON, ALL off or and all ON except fans and injectors. 4 separate tests.
There are no tests on other sensors and test according to the Ford CD is integrite of the mechanical linkage and of the electrical ie connector to the IMRC.
I just remembered one thing I found was loose ground (screws on IMRC's ckt board) but you need scan tool to tell the PCM to operate IMRC
Now to the testing. Later
Click to expand...
 
You gave me a headache reading through that mess, but I will tell you that Bill Jenkins wanted $187 shipped for a new IMRC last summer.
 
Yeah; I bought mine from my local Ford dealership for $179 about 3 years ago. You must be looking at the entire lower intake manifold or something.
 
My advice. If yours is totally dead. Buy one of TX00SVT's new used IMRCs and relocate the box to the firewall. Done and done.

You could also do what I'm doing and order some new transistors and just wait for the IMRC to finally bite it and then swap out the transistor. I've got 4 TIP122s sitting right in front of me ready to go.
 
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