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door leds

why would anyone use nonconductive solder? Cmon dude, this isnt that hard. Test one LED with a battery or two (1.5V AA+ 1.5V AA) = 3V source. Figure out what's positive and negative on your LED's. On the switch, source with the resistor is positive(bottom of the switch assuming child lock is on left) and the other side where the series of LED's ends is the negative terminal. The child lock LED's are on their own current loop hence they get their own resistor. Remember that when you connect a series of LED's, connec the pos lead of the first LED to the pos terminal, then connect the negative lead of the LED to the positive of the next and so on until the neg lead of the last LED is connected to the neg source terminal. Also, I think the resistor is in between the first and second LED's, I thought that was kind of weird, but just go with it.
 
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cool, also my LED's had a viewing angle of like 30, so for better light diffusion, I took a file to them and frosted them all around. Definitely helped get rid of the spotty look.
 
ok well i got the master switch done. i was wondering is there a way to test it without plugging it in the car cause my car is home and im at college. it isnt drivable cause im havin the uim powdercoated.
 
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