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Crankshaft pulley timing marks

U

UmmScott

CEG'er
Joined
May 4, 2009
Messages
292
Location
Omaha, NE
Ok, this may sound weird, but my engine is out of time. alot of symptoms point to it: lack power, hesitations, and little assistance from brakes due to low vacuum. No DTCs or check engine light

My problem: the marks on my crank damper do NOT correspond to TDC for some reason. (if i line up the 2nd mark with the oil pan, the #1 cylinder is NOT at TDC, its way off.)

Can i just pull another damper off any 95 contour or are each markings unique?
Thanks
 
dont bother with the timing marks on the pulley. get the Zetec timing kit that comes with a TDC pin. you remove the bolt that is in the radiator side of the engine, near the bottom of the block between cylinders 3 and 4 and thread the pin into the hole. then just turn the crank clockwise until it rests on the pin and the crank is at TDC. then just rotate the cams until you can slide the cam tool in and they are then set to TDC as well. install the timing belt starting with the crank and go counter-clockwise so that the tensioner pulley is last. set the tension and tighten the pulley and you are done.
 
striker2 said:
dont bother with the timing marks on the pulley. get the Zetec timing kit that comes with a TDC pin. you remove the bolt that is in the radiator side of the engine, near the bottom of the block between cylinders 3 and 4 and thread the pin into the hole. then just turn the crank clockwise until it rests on the pin and the crank is at TDC. then just rotate the cams until you can slide the cam tool in and they are then set to TDC as well. install the timing belt starting with the crank and go counter-clockwise so that the tensioner pulley is last. set the tension and tighten the pulley and you are done.
Click to expand...

REALLY?? I had NO idea that i could use that pin on a 95. I thought that pin was for the VCT systems on 98+ models...if this is true then this will save my butt big time
 
striker2 said:
you remove the bolt that is in the radiator side of the engine, near the bottom of the block between cylinders 3 and 4 and thread the pin into the hole. then just turn the crank clockwise until it rests on the pin and the crank is at TDC.
Click to expand...

Is this also for VCT Zetecs too?
 
Yes. Can I get confirmation that i can use that pin in the block for a 95? I ask again, cuz i thought that pin was only for the VCT system
 
UmmScott said:
REALLY?? I had NO idea that i could use that pin on a 95. I thought that pin was for the VCT systems on 98+ models...if this is true then this will save my butt big time
Click to expand...
the pin and cam tool is for all Zetecs

Scorpion8 said:
Is this also for VCT Zetecs too?
Click to expand...
there are some extra steps required for the VCT Zetecs, mainly loosening the cam gears before you install the belt and then tightening them after setting the tension. there is a good how-to written up on here somewhere for the VCT Zetecs.
 
This is awesome, so i don't really need the marks on the damper to line up with the oil pan if i use that pin in the block correct? Sorry i keep asking, but i've had the timing wrong on this car for a long time.
 
correct, i have never used those timing marks. also, IIRC, the keyway should be pointed towards the 12 O'Clock position.
 
striker2 said:
correct, i have never used those timing marks. also, IIRC, the keyway should be pointed towards the 12 O'Clock position.
Click to expand...

K, seriously i was at my wits end.... thank you so much for that info striker2. This car may make it to 200k yet. :)
 
striker2 said:
there are some extra steps required for the VCT Zetecs, mainly loosening the cam gears before you install the belt and then tightening them after setting the tension. there is a good how-to written up on here somewhere for the VCT Zetecs.
Click to expand...

Not to thread steal, but my project car had the cam pulleys removed, so it looks like I'm a step closer.
 
Scorpion8 said:
Is the peg hole on the drivers or passengers side of the block when you're down there near the crank pulley?
Click to expand...

between cylinders 3 and 4, so closer to the trans.

edit: I would never recommend using a screwdriver in place of the TDC pin. to easy be off by a tooth if the screwdriver isnt just the right size for the hole which would allow it to angle down.
 
striker2 said:
between cylinders 3 and 4, so closer to the trans.

edit: I would never recommend using a screwdriver in place of the TDC pin. to easy be off by a tooth if the screwdriver isnt just the right size for the hole which would allow it to angle down.
Click to expand...


What? You don't measure the height of the screwdriver so the angle isn't a factor. You just watch for the point which the screwdriver doesn't move when you move the crank. I've personally seen that not all TDC pegs work. The one I got placed the crank about 15 degrees BTDC. Others have had pegs work fine and others still have had the same issue. Not only is the screwdriver method reliable, but it is easier as you don't need to remove anything but the spark plug to do it. If you were off a tooth and couldn't see that, then your eyes are crooked.
 
i thought you were talking about using a screwdriver through the TDC pin hole, not through the spark plug hole. In that case, yes you can use that method as well. i honestly dont see how the TDC pin doesnt work, its a pretty simple setup and if it doesnt work then something else is wrong. I did note however that there is a small section drilled out a little in the crankshaft, im assuming for balance, that if you happened to have the crank in the right spot you could get the pin in that hole which would put the crank about 15-20 degrees ATDC. not sure how you could get it to be BTDC though unless the counter weight is larger than its supposed to be.
 
To go to the trouble of using a camtool to positively lock down the cam positions while not doing the same on crank is counterproductive.

To say angle is not a factor is totally incorrect, the more the angle the more gradual the rockover action becomes meaning even easier to not be able to tell true center of the hesitation spot and thus TDC. That is why you go through motions to get dial pointer perpendicular when degreeing cams. Anything away from true 90 degree angle is artificially induced timing error.
 
amc49 said:
To go to the trouble of using a camtool to positively lock down the cam positions while not doing the same on crank is counterproductive.

To say angle is not a factor is totally incorrect, the more the angle the more gradual the rockover action becomes meaning even easier to not be able to tell true center of the hesitation spot and thus TDC. That is why you go through motions to get dial pointer perpendicular when degreeing cams. Anything away from true 90 degree angle is artificially induced timing error.
Click to expand...

Trying to get the crank set with a hammer would be counter-productive. I'm willing to bet that I've done more timing jobs on a Zetec than anyone, ever. If you aren't a total retard and can use one hand to rotate the crank and one hand to hold the screwdriver center then you'll be fine. If you are too weak to rotate the crank with one hand I'll send my wife over to do it for you. Maybe you didn't know, but I sell a video I shot and edited myself that demonstrates how to do the timing. I also include why the TDC peg doesn't work. I actually use a short block and show that the pin seats too far into the hole. You already admitted that you could get the pin in a hole and not be set right. Imagine not knowing about that hole and not being able to see it. It is much more reliable and easier to use a screwdriver on the Zetec. If you want to break out a degreeing wheel, have fun with that. It isn't needed as when you put the belt on, it will rest where it wants too. It won't matter if you spend an hour degreeing it in. Also, with the lock tool in the cams you can degree all day but they won't move with the tool in. The cams are already set so it is pointless to degree them. These aren't push rod engines. Once you get the crank at TDC it isn't going to move unless you try to move it or pull hard on the belt. If you are having to pull on the belt to get it onto the cams, you are doing something wrong.
 
he is not saying to use a degree wheel on the Zetec. he is using degreeing cams as an example of why you should positively make sure the crank is at exactly TDC before doing anything with the cams. especially since you have used the cam bar to positively lock the cams at TDC.

i still dont see how you could use the pin and not get it set to TDC. if it goes into the 1 weighting hole (which likely isnt even there on all cranks), then the crank wont turn in either direction. in which case you remove the pin enough to turn the crank, rotate the crank about 180* and reinstall the pin. then rotate the crank until it rests on the pin. there is no way to use the pin that will set it to BTDC, its just not possible since the leading edge of the counter weight rests against the pin.
 
shoudn't the crank be near TDC before installing the pin anyway? might it get set at BDC if the pin was put in before a certain point in the crank rotation?

also I would say the only way that the TDC pin wouldn't work is if it wasn't made by Ford. Who know what others get for specs and make it to.
 
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