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cheap power?

ahh, i take things for general. :blackeye:

now since we are deep in the exhuast conversation. im doing the whole exhaust(header back) in the spring or summer. Should i put a cat(high flow cat) in or remove it?
 
depends. do you have emission testing? if yes then definitely install a CAT. if no then its up to you. keep in mind that without a CAT you will have a CEL until you either install and MIL eliminator or get a tune to turn off the rear O2.

also the slightly increased back pressure from a CAT might help the low end torque but will hurt top end power.
 
well that settles it.

$100 - pass emissions tests that i dont have and MAYBE get some low end torque

save $100 - not get the torque i might have gotten and not pass emissions testing that i dont have.

thanks :cool:
 
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Mercury Cougar CreativeCompacts 4 Cylinder Header[/FONT]

953_112_107.jpg
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Quantity in Basket: none
Price:$317.25

[/FONT] After searcing, this is the cheapest I have found the Cougar header (the one that fits the Contour)
 
yeah that and the weapon R look to be exactly the same. do you need to have a down pipe made for that?
 
striker2 said:
No, the cougar header fits with little to no modification
Click to expand...

great to know.

i was meaning more, does it need a pipe in between the header and the supplied pipe the runs underneath the engine or are they long enough to bolt together?
 
devanmc said:
great to know.

i was meaning more, does it need a pipe in between the header and the supplied pipe the runs underneath the engine or are they long enough to bolt together?
Click to expand...
it should all bolt together. no extra pipe needed.
 
I believe what they give you is all you need. That pipe below the header, in the picture, is the downpipe or pipe that you use. Notice the curve on the pipe, so that it curves towards the front of the oil pan. The pipe bolts right in. You get the header to the flange, replacing the flex pipe. You just won't have a cat. converter.
 
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so i got that ebay UDP last night. took, way to long to get on, becuase the belt, the instructions say to get is almost to small and i had to remove the starter to lock the crank. so it was like 4hours for what i thought was a 2hour job max.

So I finally, got a small drive into going to school. Im really surprised with the "gain" from it. Its a pretty noticable difference, just from a small and lighter pulley.
 
sorry it took so long too install but its deff. well worth it in the end...make sure you restart the ecu if you havnt already...
 
guess i should do that then... will i notice any difference in performance after its learning curve.
 
i reset the pcm, but its not really problem but the engine turns over alot more to start now. whats the cause of this?
 
When you put on a UDP without installing a alternator pulley, the alternator doesnt spin at its full potential wich causes dimming and what not... it may be time to get a new alternator... unless something else happend while you were installing...
 
njk1 said:
When you put on a UDP without installing a alternator pulley, the alternator doesnt spin at its full potential wich causes dimming and what not... it may be time to get a new alternator... unless something else happend while you were installing...
Click to expand...

i have a "new"(reman) bosch alternator, with a life time warrenty, put in about 4months ago. i have no power problems, my voltage shows between 13.3ish and 14.1 constantly(while cars on). My new "issue" is instead of the car just firring up it turns over a good 5-10 times. It never fails to start but it worries me that it takes that long. This large amount of turn over started about 1 week after installing the UDP, when i reset the pcm.
 
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