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Blu's 1995 Contour SE 3L build thread

I thought the porting of the 3L head was done to match the ports of the 2.5L LIM I am using, vs the 3L LIM that I am not using - Bugzookie plates are dual purpose #1 to transfer proper 2.5L LIM port and 2.5L valley perameters to the 3L heads and #2 to cover the original 3L injector valley on the heads so I don't need to use JB weld... :shrug: - damn, now I am confooooozed :crazy:
Everything you said is correct...what are you confused about?
 
That is all I wanted from the get go! - So do I use my 2.5L valve covers with that also or leave the 3L ones as well as the 3L UIM?
The 3L UIM is ugly so is my only option for changing the 3L UIM is to go with the 2.5 UIM and valve covers as well as port the 3L heads to match the 2.5L UIM?
 
Everything you said is correct...what are you confused about?

You stated before to just put the plates on and bolt up my 2.5L stuff. You didn't mention the porting which would need to be done if I go that route. Reebs was confused also, I think. I said all that stuff to clarify what the plates do, and that those are combined with the porting.
 
But the porting isn't NEEDED for the car to run properly. You'll be restricting airflow, thus choking power if you don't do some porting, but it'll still run fine.
 
But the porting isn't NEEDED for the car to run properly. You'll be restricting airflow, thus choking power if you don't do some porting, but it'll still run fine.


your kidding right? have you ever compared the size of the split port to the size of the oval port? you use the plates as a guide to enlarge the oval port to match the split port ....
 
blu fuz said:
I thought the porting of the 3L head was done to match the ports of the 2.5L LIM I am using, vs the 3L LIM that I am not using - Bugzookie plates are dual purpose #1 to transfer proper 2.5L LIM port and 2.5L valley perameters to the 3L heads and #2 to cover the original 3L injector valley on the heads so I don't need to use JB weld... :shrug: - damn, now I am confooooozed :crazy:


this is 100% correct
 
you want to use everything from your 2.5L engine except the block/bottom end, heads, cams and timing equipment.


you use the plates as a guide to port the 3L heads and then as a seal for the injector valleys.
 
That's what I thought. If I left the heads un ported the fuel would spray and hit the lip of the stock 3L intake port on the heads. I am sure this would effect runability for sure. I think the very least that could be done would be to grind the new valley in and not porting the rest to the correct size. But like beans said "while you're in there"....:shrug:

I tore some more stuff down last night because all this talk got me motivated again. I am going to post pics with my finger in them pointing to things I need to clarify. So if anyone knows what these are for and what I need to do with them, please chime in :) thanks - JOE

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Cam position sensor? Use the 3L or the 2.5?
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So, from what I have read here I need to grind this flange down flush?
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AND, do I use the 2.5 or the 3L water pump and sensor:shrug:
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have you ever compared the size of the split port to the size of the oval port?
Yes, I know there is a noticeable difference, which is why I said it would NOT be his best power option. With the visual I have in my mind, the unported head is not enough of an obstruction to fuel delivery to cause driveability concerns... especially with the plates acting as a spacer between the LIM & heads. HOWEVER, I have not personally placed, or used, a split-port LIM on oval heads so I guess I'll leave this one to someone who has done either or both.

Your top four pics are sensors; knock, crank (CKP), cam (CMP), and oil pressure. I would use the sensors off of your 2.5L when possible, since that's the wiring that you're going to be using. I don't think the first three will matter, but I'm pretty sure the oil sender is now the opposite of what it used to be, (negative vs. positive), so if you use the new oil sender with your old harness by changing the connecter, you'll get a low oil pressure light when you actually have good oil pressure, and vice-versa.
 
put my comments under the pics in red

That's what I thought. If I left the heads un ported the fuel would spray and hit the lip of the stock 3L intake port on the heads. I am sure this would effect runability for sure. I think the very least that could be done would be to grind the new valley in and not porting the rest to the correct size. But like beans said "while you're in there"....:shrug:

I tore some more stuff down last night because all this talk got me motivated again. I am going to post pics with my finger in them pointing to things I need to clarify. So if anyone knows what these are for and what I need to do with them, please chime in :) thanks - JOE

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that is the 3L knock sensor. if you have one on your 95 all you need to do is splice the 3L sensor into your 95 harness.

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that is the 3L crank sensor, you will not need this as you will use the stock one off your stock front cover. don't forget to set the pulse wheel to the 2.5L possition to match your 2.5L timing cover.

Cam position sensor? Use the 3L or the 2.5?
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yes that is the cam sensor. you don't need the 3L one. you will use your 2.5L one on your 2.5L front cover.

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that is you oil pressure sender for the light on the dash. you can install the one from your 2.5L but it is easier to splice the 3L sensor into your wiring harness. this prevents a possible source of an oil leak.



So, from what I have read here I need to grind this flange down flush?

yes you can cut the pilot bushing flush or remove it completely.
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AND, do I use the 2.5 or the 3L water pump and sensor:shrug:

you want to use the cross over tube from your 2.5L. you will note that this sensor has two wires and ours only have one since it is grounded through the metal cross over tube. you should powder coat the tube also. so you don't need this sensor.
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so other then the oil pressure sender, knock sensor you don't use anything else from the 3L.
 
so other then the oil pressure sender, knock sensor you don't use anything else from the 3L.
I guess the Taurus oil sender is different from the Escape one? I tried to splice in an 05' Escape sender when I did my swap and is was the opposite of my 2.5L switch. In other words, I had 80psi cold oil pressure, but my oil pressure light was staying on.
 
My oil pressure light has never come on, even with these problems I had with this oil pump and even when I put a hole in my oil pan years ago and drove with less than 1/2 QT of oil :shrug: I wonder if the bulb has been burned out this whole time... :eek:
 
tornados and flooding doesn't stop a man on a mission!

tornados and flooding doesn't stop a man on a mission!

Rain, snow, hail, flooding, tornados, nothing will stop me! I was set on having that motor out yesterday while the sirens went off in Fox Lake for a tornado! I was so dirty and pissed and wet and warm and UGH! That beast was comming out! My neighbor came over and was like "dude, you are f'kn crazy", not because I was out in that weather but because he was wondering how the hell I was going to remember how to hook everything back up! :laugh: That :censored::censored::censored::censored: was fun! WOooOOOhOOOOoooOOoO!
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Yep - traded my $300 go kart for it straight up off craigs list
2005 150cc Roketa Catalina :drool: Gets 85 MPG and hits 62 MPH on a good day :)
 
I guess the Taurus oil sender is different from the Escape one? I tried to splice in an 05' Escape sender when I did my swap and is was the opposite of my 2.5L switch. In other words, I had 80psi cold oil pressure, but my oil pressure light was staying on.


must be ... we have never isntalled an escape engine, always a taurus/sable.
 
joe, I was just thinking about it and if your 95 has a knock sensor you might want to use the one from your engine. I am thinking this since you have OBDI and that taurus knock sensor is OBDII, so I am not sure that would affect anything.

I don't see any issues on the oil pressure light as it is just a sensor grounded to the block for the light on the dash.

and again everything else you use is from your 95 so there shouldn't be any issues there.
 
Did you notice what I did with the LIM? I un bolted it from the block and swung it to the side on the strut tower with the fuel lines still attached. I couldn't get the fuel lines apart so :shrug: do whatcha gotta do....
 
Did you notice what I did with the LIM? I un bolted it from the block and swung it to the side on the strut tower with the fuel lines still attached. I couldn't get the fuel lines apart so :shrug: do whatcha gotta do....


sure that shjould work out just fine. then you don't have to wory about the fuel rail or injector seals, etc
 
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