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Blu's 1995 Contour SE 3L build thread

joe. i took off the DPFE sensor, tubes, and EGR solenoid. i plugged the vaccum opening at the "vaccum block" and bought a block off kit (ford dealer has them. all use same bolt pattern) it will throw a code, but it can be tuned out. even with the code, car runs fine.

KEEP IN MIND GUYS, it is recommended you run 1 step colder plugs with no EGR!
 
yup. ase certified master mechanic friend (and fast car builder) tells me that its a well known fact that you should run a colder plug because it for some reason makes hotter combustion temps (which makes no sense to me either!)
 
Joe ground down the bushings on the alt. bracket?! LMAO! Someone needs to make a post about this or something. Svt snob had me put in an alt and said he had to grind to get his last one to fit. I'm like what are you talking about?!

And don't b!tch about things going wrong. It's your fault. That cable and vac. from the valve cover have to be routed like OEM or you will have issues with them touching the EGR tube. When you did your 3L install you routed screwy.
 
Joe ground down the bushings on the alt. bracket?! LMAO! Someone needs to make a post about this or something. Svt snob had me put in an alt and said he had to grind to get his last one to fit. I'm like what are you talking about?!

I have actually read that on here more than once. I think it is in the stickies or something. :shrug:
 
And don't b!tch about things going wrong. It's your fault.



Blah blah blah you internet bully :mad:. Yah, I ground down the alt tabs a little, so what? I didn't know the sleve in the bracket moved, probably because mine doesn't :shrug:.

AND the melted stuff, I thought they were in the correct place but it is so damn tight in that area that everything is close to the EGR tube. Most things are within 1/4", so having wires/hoses move close enough to melt probably happens a lot just from normal driving.

Show me the OEM routing of the valve cover breather tube Todd, please.

I am heat wrapping the EGR tube so it won't happen again. Like was stated before, atleast the car isn't burned to the ground.
 
BTW, changing the alt only took less than 1.5hrs. One 12" extension, one swivel, 17mm socket (yes 17mm), one 10mm, and used a 3" extension sometimes.. Didn't remove "Y" pipe and only popped the tie rod out of the knuckle (15mm nut) for clearance for pulling/replacing the alt.

Putting a little bit of tape on the swivel and some to hold the bolts into the sockets helped a lot and saved tons of time.

I had put replacement bolts in for the alt because somehow I lost mine during the 3L build. Antisieze'd them before install also.
 
I didn't know the sleve in the bracket moved, probably because mine doesn't :shrug:.

Wann place $ on that? You need a long crow bar etc to move them. It's not easy. Your EGR should have a heat sleeve on it from the factory.
 
Wann place $ on that? You need a long crow bar etc to move them. It's not easy. Your EGR should have a heat sleeve on it from the factory.


I wasn't challenging you to bet on anything..... If you don't know the sleeve moves, why would you magically pry there and then realize it?:confused:. Someone wake up on the wrong side of the bed today.
Well, if I knew the sleeve moved I would have tried to pry it out. Never once read a post about prying the sleeve, so obviously I wouldn't have tried.

Thanks for the bit of info ;). I am sorry Todd that I don't know it all, but I am now smarter because of it.


Oh, and on the EGR heat sleeve you are talking about, yes I did have one:

newpics131.jpg



But it basically fell apart so instead of replacing it I just painted the tube and installed as is:

3Lbuild117.jpg
 
And that would be why everything melted. LOL! I could see it was a pressed in black sleeve the first time I did one. I assumed it moved since I knew no one would design something that you'd have to grind to replace.
 
*7-13-09
Car = 217,010 Miles
Motor = 23,930 Miles
Trans/clutch/torsen = 4,779 Miles*



No motor/trans issues to speak of. Car dyno'd 190hp 193tq with the 17# injectors and SE LIM. The built trans has some gear rollover noise but otherwise is great. I picked up a new IAC to try and eliminate the moose.

There is another '95 SE Midnight red being built up right now and that thing is siiiick. Onboard computer, molded touch screen, 3L, etc.... search for it, looks like I have some competition. I heard he might turbo it too! Yikes!
 
Yup, that would be 2000ZxT's car; which used to be Chris's car. Poor kid has had to put up with a bunch of crap left over by the PO in that build. It's gunna be insane, though:crazy:
 
yup. ase certified master mechanic friend (and fast car builder) tells me that its a well known fact that you should run a colder plug because it for some reason makes hotter combustion temps (which makes no sense to me either!)

wiki said:
EGR works by recirculating a portion of an engine's exhaust gas back to the engine cylinders. Intermixing the incoming air with recirculated exhaust gas dilutes the mix with inert gas, lowering the adiabatic flame temperature and (in diesel engines) reducing the amount of excess oxygen. The exhaust gas also increases the specific heat capacity of the mix, lowering the peak combustion temperature. Because NOx formation progresses much faster at high temperatures, EGR serves to limit the generation of NOx. NOx is primarily formed when a mix of nitrogen and oxygen is subjected to high temperatures.

In a typical automotive spark-ignited (SI) engine, 5 to 15 percent of the exhaust gas is routed back to the intake as EGR. The maximum quantity is limited by the requirement of the mixture to sustain a contiguous flame front during the combustion event; excessive EGR in an SI engine can cause misfires and partial burns. Although EGR does measurably slow combustion, this can largely be compensated for by advancing spark timing. The impact of EGR on engine efficiency largely depends on the specific engine design, and sometimes leads to a compromise between efficiency and NOx emissions. A properly operating EGR can theoretically increase the efficiency of gasoline engines via several mechanisms:

  • Reduced throttling losses. The addition of inert exhaust gas into the intake system means that for a given power output, the throttle plate must be opened further, resulting in increased inlet manifold pressure and reduced throttling losses.
  • Reduced heat rejection. Lowered peak combustion temperatures not only reduces NOx formation, it also reduces the loss of thermal energy to combustion chamber surfaces, leaving more available for conversion to mechanical work during the expansion stroke.
  • Reduced chemical dissociation. The lower peak temperatures result in more of the released energy remaining as sensible energy near TDC, rather than being bound up (early in the expansion stroke) in the dissociation of combustion products. This effect is minor compared to the first two.
It also decreases the efficiency of gasoline engines via at least one more mechanism:

  • Reduced specific heat ratio. A lean intake charge has a higher specific heat ratio than an EGR mixture. A reduction of specific heat ratio reduces the amount of energy that can be extracted by the piston.
EGR is typically not employed at high loads because it would reduce peak power output. This is because it reduces the intake charge density. EGR is also omitted at idle (low-speed, zero load) because it would cause unstable combustion, resulting in rough idle.

wiki folks, it's your friend

you have to realize that just because you think "exhaust hot, ouch" it's nowhere near as hot as the inside of a combustion chamber, and the addition of the inert gases has the same effect as raising the octane of the fuel. if EGR DIDN'T reduce combustion temperatures, it would never have been invented. reducing combustion temps is it's purpose, so obviously removing it is going to raise combustion temps.

[edit] those are sick numbers joe, I wonder why so many full 3.0's are only putting down 190 at the wheels?
 
It seems that every 3L build ported or full, the numbers are all over the place from 180hp/tq up to 215hp/tq. Mine might have been a bit higher because of the porting I did, smoothed the runners out pretty well compared to some I have seen:shrug:.

The closest build to mine was rkneeshaw's http://www.cardomain.com/ride/840943. His was a '96 Hybrid brand new 3L short block with SVT heads/cams, 19# injectors, SVT intakes, and a tune and his #s were less than mine. Something like 189hp & 186tq, not too much different but it should have been atleast higher than mine.

It makes me wonder what adding the 19# injectors, SVT LIM, and a tune would do for me.... I am thinking probably 205hp/tq. Tricker's 3Ls have always been a freak of nature with higher than average numbers.
 
[edit] those are sick numbers joe, I wonder why so many full 3.0's are only putting down 190 at the wheels?

Because they aren't running tunes, which is what they really need since they don't have the manifold runners. I know I am missing like 50 tq down low because of that.
 
Very true, most untuned full 3Ls will run like shiz without a tune and be low on both hp and tq. The computer is programmed for secondaries and full 3Ls don't have them so it falls flat.
 
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