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Bad news guys

B

BurritaSVT

Veteran CEG'er
Joined
Feb 28, 2001
Messages
756
Location
houma, LA 70360
I more than likely spun a rod. I have a videop though before it went bad. It is not smoking so I am guessing the rod was stressed some or the bearing was an oiling issue that went out. I am going start pulling the oil pan I will let you know what I find guys. I willsay it was the fastest run to 140 mph I ever been before she blew.
 
well I located the issue after removing the oil pan. My number one rod spun a bearing and seized on the crank since I drove it halfway home figuring the damage was already there. I will need a crank now and rod. After brainstorming I should have put a 3.0 oil pump where I had a 2.5 liter oil pump so you learn tthe hard way.........
 
The oil pumps are the same for both engines. I don't think it ever got prved that one actually flowerd more volume than the other did it?

Rick
 
well after talking to tom my engine had a little rumble after it was warm meaning the oil 5w 30w sythetic was to thin with loads I am producing there not enough oil between the metals. I will rebuild the motor and run 10w 30w at least. All the bearing showed even wear through the layers not side loads so the oil was not enough.

I will raising some money soon by building some motors for some guys........later guys
 
Buckshot77 said:
The oil pumps are the same for both engines. I don't think it ever got prved that one actually flowerd more volume than the other did it?

Rick
Click to expand...

Exactly. There is no difference until you start talking about the later duratecs with VVT like the Mazda6.

I'm sure Joey already has a good plan on repairing it and putting it back together.

After talking with him I'm pretty convinced it is another oiling issue.
I think the oil is too thin and with the extremely high torque loads he runs he needs a thicker oil to provide better protection. I've long maintained that people on here are running oils that are too thin and that a thicker oil will provide better protection for intermittent starvation/pressure loss/high load situations.
I even posted in the 3L forums that Volvo clearly defined in print that any time your car sees ambient temps 86*F and greater that you need to run a 10w30 oil. If you live in a climate where you don't see that then 5w30 is good.
Now I always ran 20w50 and 10w40 is Arizona, summer and winter respectively. I never had an oil issue and I still have pictures of the stock ford bearings on my 3L after two years of both NA and turbo use. They looked great. I'll be sending a picture or two to Burrita to support my claims in the hopes that he will switch to at least a 10w30 or a 10w40 oil in the future. For further evidence, Ray can talk about the condition of the clevite bearings after sustained 1+ years of 350+ HP/TQ

:crazy:
For those of you that don't agree: Tough. I've got time/mileage/cicumstance/dyno graphs/photo-evidence on my side to defend my point. lol
 
Wow, I can't believe anyone would even consider running 5w30 in a turbo motor. VW specs 5w40 for their 1.8L and 2.0L turbos. Look at it this way, 4 cams, a timing CHAIN, and the turbo center section are like sub-micronic scissors for your oil's polymer chains. That stuff would probably have the viscosity of water after a few thousand miles. My advice is to rebuild and buy some Liquid cosworth, Redline, or Motul 5w40.
 
I've seen modified "Terminator" owners run 5W20 oil without any problems. Not that I'd recommend it myself but...

I run 0W40 myself. Actually it's more like 1W38 to be exact.
 
DemonSVT said:
I've seen modified "Terminator" owners run 5W20 oil without any problems. Not that I'd recommend it myself but...

I run 0W40 myself. Actually it's more like 1W38 to be exact.
Click to expand...

Do those stang's blowers share oil with the engine sump? I thought blowers usually had their own oil. The turbo in conjunction with a DOHC 4v motor with a timing chain is really where the oil gets knackered.

You must be refering to Mobil 0w40? it is truly not quite either of those specs...but that's another topic.
 
The bearings I pulled on a good rod shown wear too. MOst of the wear was on the top and bottom of the bearing. The motor was plastic guage fitted before assembly and if it was a clarance issue anyway and I would n't have checked the clearance the wear would have been on the sides too. But the wear on the bottom of the rod and top shows that the oil could not support the load of the rods and pressures. The oil was warm when I removed it and it was really thin too. It had no fuel smell or discoloration so that tells me the oil was only thin do to the temps in the motor.

Now there will be some people who will say well I am running 5w 30w oil but I am only one here besides beyond loaded who has heavier forged rods and producing over 410wtq and spiking the rpms to 7400 rpms once in awhile too. Plus my last turbo was indersized so it ran hotter since I overspun it on a daily basis. Plus my Summer here get into the 100's for months unlike most people see.

So we need to be sure we have the proper oil weight. I only had 10k miles on this motor so the next motor will be running more power with boost and a thicker oil and I will do research on the new fusion oil pump unless someone here can tell me where it will not work or hurt my motor.
 
you will see that the bearing that was worn was the top side on the power stroke here is a pic
bearingfailure_003.jpg
 
no that is the second layer the copper layer it worn through the outer layer. Hot would show a blue color on the back of the bearing too. It just metal to metal wear so far.
 
Machine the crank .25mm over and then micropolish them. I had this done to my crank when the machine shop rebuilt my short block. Clevite makes both rod and main bearings in "plus" sizes just for this reason.
 
he'd probably be better off with a new crank because taking the .25mm off the journals makes the crank that much weaker (which may seem minimal but he's pushing the limits already)
 
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