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Aftermarket Cams?

I don't think they would be using the same process for all the cams. I would wonder if SE cams are a viable option for a regrind personally. The SVT cams and oval port cams would likely be have their own dedicated regrind process.

I have no idea about the actual process, I'll let LOUDSHO92 fill in the blanks with facts. I'm just using my own logic. I could be wrong.
 
CRG Racer24 said:
I'd be game too.

Also still want to know if we could just supply/use regular duratec cams, or only the SVT cams.
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My guess for now is that SE and SVT cams could be used but I wont know till I get them. We would turn the SE into an SVT stage 1.

Swazo said:
I would bet they can do either, but remember.... if you're starting off w/ SE cams I would be that any regrind will give you something closer to an SVT cam. Start off with SVT cams and end up with something better that that. Look at the differences between ATX and MTX SHO cams on their site for a better idea.


Personally, I think I'm going to go with Cat Cams and source my own gears. I'd like to have something a bit more than what a regrind can offer. No chance on SHO Source becoming a Cat Cam dealer, is there?
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I htink we would step it up to an SVT Stage 1, just remove more material.

Not right now with the international stuff and we can also do it for much cheaper then what they offer. I htink you would be suprised with what the regrinds can do.

CRG Racer24 said:
Ok this may sound stupid, but what about using 04+ 3L cams for the regrind? If the specs that they are going to re-grind them too were off of SVT cams in the first place, would they be able to do it with the 04+ 3L cams? I just want to use lower mileage cams if I'm going to partake in the re-grinding of cams.
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The 00+ cams are proabably much more different due to oval ports so I would say they are different and would only work for an "oval" grind. Also miles wouldn't matter and if we go to a core system it wouldn't matter.
 
How do you get more lift out of a regrind? Do you take material off the non "lobe" end?
 
I can speak for the SHO cams. We get more lift by grinding the base circle or "non-lobe" side of the cam. By doing this, you can grind less on the "point" and more on the base circle. Within reason you can change the lift and duration as much as needed to get to a Stage 2. Then, we use lash caps to compensate for the reduced base circle (to keep the clearances). I am not as familiar with the Contour, so I will let Matt step back in now.

Mike
 
Just for clarification to the earlier posts on the ST220/3.0L V6 Mondeo cams/springs. I've gone back and forth a lot with the guys across the pond and the 04+ 3.0L's have the same cams and springs as the ST220/3.0L Mondeo engines as was mentioned earlier.

As for the aftermarket cams... I'm interested if they can be sold with upgraded valve springs. However I highly doubt you guys will be getting to the oval port cams within the time-line that I'm working in.
 
CSVT#49 said:
Just for clarification to the earlier posts on the ST220/3.0L V6 Mondeo cams/springs. I've gone back and forth a lot with the guys across the pond and the 04+ 3.0L's have the same cams and springs as the ST220/3.0L Mondeo engines as was mentioned earlier.

As for the aftermarket cams... I'm interested if they can be sold with upgraded valve springs. However I highly doubt you guys will be getting to the oval port cams within the time-line that I'm working in.
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Ah, thanks for the clarification.

LOUDSHO92 said:
We are working on springs but then agian they haven't been needed for the SHO. I am not sure about the Duratec.
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I would be interested in springs for the extra safety with the more aggressive cam, and the extra safety to run higer rpm's with the more aggressive cams.
 
I thought I remember reading the ST220 springs were the same thing as ours or very close to it so there was no point to it.
 
I can't find a good online source to verify it, buy I heard that the 2.3L and the newer (04+?) 3.0L Duratec engines started to share a lot of valvetrain components. If that's true, the 3L would have a bunch of options on springs and hardware.
 
Swazo said:
I can't find a good online source to verify it, buy I heard that the 2.3L and the newer (04+?) 3.0L Duratec engines started to share a lot of valvetrain components. If that's true, the 3L would have a bunch of options on springs and hardware.
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That would be awesome if that is indeed true. That would open up some solutions to the valvetrain equation. Keep searching for that then!
 
Swazo said:
I can't find a good online source to verify it, buy I heard that the 2.3L and the newer (04+?) 3.0L Duratec engines started to share a lot of valvetrain components. If that's true, the 3L would have a bunch of options on springs and hardware.
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Very interesting!
 
Swazo said:
I can't find a good online source to verify it, buy I heard that the 2.3L and the newer (04+?) 3.0L Duratec engines started to share a lot of valvetrain components. If that's true, the 3L would have a bunch of options on springs and hardware.
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I went searching a little bit on Rockauto for part #'s to see if anything matched up, but I was coming up rather empty between the 2.3 and 3.0, except that the 3.0 valve spring retainer keepers are sold in packs of 16 for the 3.0. That, to me, implies usage on a 4cyl, right?
 
you don't need big cams in these cars until someone comes up with an intake setup that will support the flow at that RPM. you can put big cams in and lose all your down low power but you have to match everything to make it work well. you can't run a cam that likes to see 8600 rpm when you can't run that high because your rod bearings will probably give anyways you'd have to get a dry sump setup and also your intake runner length and size is going to kill velocity too soon to pull any power at that RPM. match your cams to your intake/porting and valve sizing. SVT cams are big enough you shoudl be focusing on your porting and intake volumes more, then go crazy on a cam that will match what you want.
 
TRicker said:
you don't need big cams in these cars until someone comes up with an intake setup that will support the flow at that RPM. you can put big cams in and lose all your down low power but you have to match everything to make it work well. you can't run a cam that likes to see 8600 rpm when you can't run that high because your rod bearings will probably give anyways you'd have to get a dry sump setup and also your intake runner length and size is going to kill velocity too soon to pull any power at that RPM. match your cams to your intake/porting and valve sizing. SVT cams are big enough you shoudl be focusing on your porting and intake volumes more, then go crazy on a cam that will match what you want.
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You've gone crazy with reading up on intake stuff haven't you? Lol. Wanna PM me some of links to the stuff you've read? I'd like to read up on that stuff to be more informed than make a decision on these cams... that I do want.
 
http://www.wallaceracing.com/runnertorquecalc.php

runner length calculators, volume calculators, cubic inch calculators, etc.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manifold_(automotive)
wikipedia (great writeup, click the linkys in it too if you have time)

this is where you'll really start learning something.

Helmholtz resonance:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Helmholtz_resonance


basically, the current intake designs being used on our platform can't sustain the RPM your looking to push. the way they did it in the BTCC series was with KLZE swaps (24 valve 2.5L mazda engines, destroked to 2000 cc's, and crazy sophisticated head designs that cost upward of 135,000$ each) and carbon fiber built ITB setups, with longtube headers and nice 3" exhaust systems.

you can't support the RPM that you will be achieving with CAT cams unless you get some sort of ITB system, boost, and amazing exhaust system. i don't care how much you extrude hone, port, hog out, swap, or w/e. factory stuff can't do it.

the general rule: the higher the rpm, the shorter the intake runner should be. the demand for air is the same, but its happening faster. this can be negated by running tapered intake, or different intake shapes alltogether, etc. you have to supply enough air so it won't starve on the high end (choke out) but also take advantage of the helmholtz resonance theory and get the air moving back and forth in the intake so that the velocity increases by moving inward at the appropriate time. when you achieve this, you get a great setup, but you will have a VERY narrow powerband. that's more a race engine thing. a six speed trans with close ratio gearing would be desirable for a setup like this also, so you can keep it in that "sweet spot". this isnt going to be most desirable for a street driven car. it won't idle, it won't run on pump gas, and it will be crazy loud and won't be legal at all.

just boost your car and smile, N/A is a noble battle, but its a losing battle.
 
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