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253whp / 223 tq

If you only knew what you were talking about, I'd waste my time reading the posts....

So funny to see people get hung up on Dyno numbers, and or putting forward theories.

Good thing, I never relied on any advice or information posted on here to do anything on my car. Oh ••••, I lied, I checked a couple of torque specs, but I still went and double checked to make sure it wasn't a miracle that some of you got something right.
 
Manimillion said:
If you only knew what you were talking about, I'd waste my time reading the posts....

So funny to see people get hung up on Dyno numbers, and or putting forward theories.

Good thing, I never relied on any advice or information posted on here to do anything on my car. Oh ••••, I lied, I checked a couple of torque specs, but I still went and double checked to make sure it wasn't a miracle that some of you got something right.
Click to expand...

Awesome...and yet you still post on here

You're too good to get any info from here, but you still want praise from the members...


Back on topic. A dyno is just a number, and should only be used for tuning purposes. They are all different, and can all be manipulated.
 
Will different final drive ratios affect the dyno
readings?


This one's tricky. First, there are potential discrepancies because different
gears have different inertia values, generate more friction, and change the
amount of tire slip. Higher numerical gears tend to be more inefficient, so as
gear ratios increase numerically, power levels tend to slightly drop,
particularly on an inertia dyno. When torque is multiplied by steeper gears,
tire slippage also tends to increase.



However, there's another, often overlooked, factor in the brew: rpm and
torque are inversely related to calculating horsepower, so changing the rear
axle ratio or testing in other than a 1:1 transmission gear seemingly shouldn't
change the horsepower numbers. But this doesn't take into consideration the fact
that changing gear ratios changes the engine's rate of acceleration. For
example: We know that on an engine dyno, if you change a sweep test's
acceleration rate from, say, 300 rpm/second to 600 rpm/second, the flywheel
power number (bhp) drops due to the faster rate of acceleration. As an engine
accelerates at a higher rate, the power required to accelerate the engine
increases, and a greater portion is consumed before it gets to the flywheel.
Going to numerically higher gear ratios-whether in the trans (testing in a lower
gear) or in the rearend-is like increasing the rate of acceleration in a sweep
test. Whether this actually changes a given chassis dyno's reported results
depends on how the specific dyno manufacturer does its math. For the most
consistent results, always test in the same trans gear (generally 1:1) and
rebaseline the vehicle after a rear-axle ratio change.





Read more: http://www.hotrod.com/techfaq/hrdp_0405_chassis_dyno_guide/viewall.html#ixzz1tD1ttXst
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FYI, Mustang Dyno's are not inertia dyno's, they have many variables to them. So your Final Drive hypothesis is quite a bit out the window.

What will we have next? :)

Maybe the Canadian weather has something to do with this extraordinary dyno number I got.
 
bhiggs89 said:
Awesome...and yet you still post on here

You're too good to get any info from here, but you still want praise from the members...


Back on topic. A dyno is just a number, and should only be used for tuning purposes. They are all different, and can all be manipulated.
Click to expand...

We actually had my buddies 2 pet hamsters running on the rollers at the same time we were dyno'ing the car, thats how we manipulated it. In the end, my name is the first four letters of the word manipulation.

atomicmouse.jpg
 
I'm not exactly sure why some are suspicious of your numbers. Maybe cuz of my naivety. Plus i tend to believe ppl unless there's reason not to. I already said it earlier. The bolt ons are a HUGE reason u're getting those numbers. How many 3Ls on here are running around with an ST220, tru duals, & a great tune? And might i add that Mani's car is lighter than the most...
 
BAD SVT said:
I'm not exactly sure why many are suspicious of your numbers. Maybe cuz of my naivety. Plus i tend to believe ppl unless there's reason not to. I already said it earlier. The bolt ons are a HUGE reason u're getting those numbers. How many 3Ls on here are running around with an ST220, tru duals, & a great tune? And might i add that Mani's car is lighter than the most...
Click to expand...

Like none. In fact is there any other dyno sheets that involve the ST220? I need to get the tru duals done on my car, and get it to the dyno shop ASAP. It has almost the exact same setup as Mani plus the longtubes, then we can compare.
 
Mustang Dyno's are load cell dyno's. Load cell style dynos don't care about the gear, or gearing.

BAD SVT said:
I'm not exactly sure why some are suspicious of your numbers. Maybe cuz of my naivety. Plus i tend to believe ppl unless there's reason not to. I already said it earlier. The bolt ons are a HUGE reason u're getting those numbers. How many 3Ls on here are running around with an ST220, tru duals, & a great tune? And might i add that Mani's car is lighter than the most...
Click to expand...

I have a 6 point roll bar, big brakes front and rear, 2.5qt oil accumulator, subframe connectors, a rear crash bar.

For lightening, has a cf hood, rear seat delete, no rear spare, and rear door cards removed.

I wouldn't be surprised if the car actually hasn't shed any weight. But I will be weighing the car very soon.

As someone posted, a dyno number is a dyno number in the end. But gets very funny when people take it too serious, and then come and try to explain why such numbers were attainable.
 
FastFord said:
Like none. In fact is there any other dyno sheets that involve the ST220? I need to get the tru duals done on my car, and get it to the dyno shop ASAP. It has almost the exact same setup as Mani plus the longtubes, then we can compare.
Click to expand...

Git R done! U'll come back here & remember that i said it. A tru dual setup with ur longtubes will be sick. When a car can breathe, it'll keep pulling. I've experienced it back to back on two svts. And neither of them had tru duals installed. On my turbo'd 3L split-port, i went into the exhaust shop with 2.5" exhaust piping & came out with 3" piping. It was my butt dyno yes, but i'll be willing to put 50grand on it that the car had much more power. The second time was on another N/A split-port swap i recently did. Went into the exhaust shop with stock 2.25" pipes & came out with 2.5" pipes & it drove much better especially in the high rpm range. It just kept pulling. I personally prefer the Split-port swap for reasons enumerated by others & then some. But until someone builds a 3L similar to his & sheds serious weight, i think u guys should leave him alone.
 
BAD SVT said:
Git R done! U'll come back here & remember that i said it. A tru dual setup with ur longtubes will be sick. When a car can breathe, it'll keep pulling. I've experienced it back to back on two svts. And neither of them had tru duals installed. On my turbo'd 3L split-port, i went into the exhaust shop with 2.5" exhaust piping & came out with 3" piping. It was my butt dyno yes, but i'll be willing to put 50grand on it that the car had much more power. The second time was on another N/A split-port swap i recently did. Went into the exhaust shop with stock 2.25" pipes & came out with 2.5" pipes & it drove much better especially in the high rpm range. It just kept pulling. I personally prefer the Split-port swap for reasons enumerated by others & then some. But until someone builds a 3L similar to his & sheds serious weight, i think u guys should leave him alone.
Click to expand...

Its soo close but soo far away, things have gotten in the way like having to buy a trailer since I cant register the car. But really its very close, just needs an air filter, some oil, the exhaust built which should be very simple since I plan on running side exits, and a loong day on the dyno. Some of these bolt on mods can do wonders, I have felt the increase in power between the ST220 w/ 65mm and the stock stuff even on a horrible tune.

And what does shedding weight have anything to do with a dyno number? Figured I would ask this time instead of go along with the FDR changing dyno numbers :laugh:
 
Manimillion said:
If you only knew what you were talking about, I'd waste my time reading the posts....

So funny to see people get hung up on Dyno numbers, and or putting forward theories.

Good thing, I never relied on any advice or information posted on here to do anything on my car. Oh ••••, I lied, I checked a couple of torque specs, but I still went and double checked to make sure it wasn't a miracle that some of you got something right.
Click to expand...

Looks like I hit a nerve questioning the power output. I'm glad you just know everything! I personally don't care what the numbers say, at the end of the day every car is different, every dyno is different and everyone has different goals for modding their cars. But, this is a public forum on the internet, when you post high numbers off a dyno or exceptionally good quarter mile times people are going to question how you did it. Which is mainly to see what modifications you did that made the biggest improvement.

Manimillion said:
FYI, Mustang Dyno's are not inertia dyno's, they have many variables to them. So your Final Drive hypothesis is quite a bit out the window.

What will we have next? :)

Maybe the Canadian weather has something to do with this extraordinary dyno number I got.
Click to expand...

It was just a theory, I learned something new today so thanks. It's impossible to really compare dyno numbers since there are so many variables in types of dyno, tuning, etc. At the end of the day you put down some good numbers so good work. No need to act like you're better than everyone else on here.
 
Easy way to settle this once and for all, he needs to run a 1/4 mile pass and post the timeslip. Actually, he'd probably have to post a video since a timeslip can be from anything lol.
 
99Mystique ATX said:
Looks like I hit a nerve questioning the power output. I'm glad you just know everything! I personally don't care what the numbers say, at the end of the day every car is different, every dyno is different and everyone has different goals for modding their cars. But, this is a public forum on the internet, when you post high numbers off a dyno or exceptionally good quarter mile times people are going to question how you did it. Which is mainly to see what modifications you did that made the biggest improvement.



It was just a theory, I learned something new today so thanks. It's impossible to really compare dyno numbers since there are so many variables in types of dyno, tuning, etc. At the end of the day you put down some good numbers so good work. No need to act like you're better than everyone else on here.
Click to expand...


Trust me, only nerve you struck made me laugh quite a bit.

Just funny how everyone gets stuck up on dyno numbers.
 
FastFord said:
And what does shedding weight have anything to do with a dyno number? Figured I would ask this time instead of go along with the FDR changing dyno numbers :laugh:
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it probably doesnt with his situation. but a tuner will enter the cars weight into the MUSTANG dyno to find the real whp. because dyno jet rollers(the big ones) only weigh 1000lbs (thats what i heard), so that means the wheels are only "pulling" 1000 pounds, and not the entire weight of the car. the mustange dyno will add resistence to the roller to make it "weigh" whatever number was entered
 
FastFord said:
And what does shedding weight have anything to do with a dyno number? Figured I would ask this time instead of go along with the FDR changing dyno numbers :laugh:
Click to expand...

Weight does not have anything to do with dyno numbers....it only affects 1/4 mile times and road courses. The only time I have seen weight involved in a dyno was when I was watching youtube and 2 fat guys were sitting in the trunk of a supra while it was on the dyno :laugh:
 
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Thanks for all of the FD info guys, the reason I asked is for those who have gone the other way with the Zetec and Focus FD's.
 
My friend had just gone to the dyno with his turbo mustang and he came back with some huge number enough so that he questioned the shop. They claimed they checked there dyno because they thought it was out of calibration but what had happened is they entered in the wrong weight for his car 6400 instead of 3400. They will be running his car for free to get the real numbers. But yes weight does effect dyno numbers on certian types of dynos. I think those numbers are great though.
 
I mean if running down a Switzer GTR on the track isn't proof enough that his car is a freak (and his driving :D) I don't know what is
 
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