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2.5L Track Death: The Chronicle of #2072's 3L Swap

I ran into the same issue with the Escape TB and bracket, but I wanted to retain the cruise. I ended up using a Taurus TB and parts of the SVT and Taurus bracket with the stock SVT cable. I also had to modify how the cable attaches to the TB so it's a little rigged. It all works fine but I had to shave out some of the plastic on the UIM to make it all function properly so I'm not really crazy about it and would like to change it out. I also wasn't sure if the stock Escape bracket would fit under the hood or not, but considering the IAC almost clears I bet the bracket would either clear or be very close.

Nice build, it looks great.
 
thats right, when i did mine i used a stock 2.5 linkage and expanded the bar in the tb to accept the larger butterfly
 
RFcsvt said:
I ran into the same issue with the Escape TB and bracket, but I wanted to retain the cruise. I ended up using a Taurus TB...
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Ah, that makes sense why I couldn't find documentation of anyone using an Escape TB. Probably most people want to keep the cruise. I considered the hood clearance as well, but as you mentioned the IAC is already higher. I'll need to cut an escape in the skeleton of the hood there probably, and definitely over the oil cap also. Fortunately for me that's just fiberglass now and not steel, haha.
 
For sure, the oil cap and IAC make some contact. There was one thread about using the Escape TB I found, but he was using a universal throttle cable or something.
 
rollinstylee said:
Ah, that makes sense why I couldn't find documentation of anyone using an Escape TB. Probably most people want to keep the cruise. I considered the hood clearance as well, but as you mentioned the IAC is already higher. I'll need to cut an escape in the skeleton of the hood there probably, and definitely over the oil cap also. Fortunately for me that's just fiberglass now and not steel, haha.
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If the valve cover is aluminum you can relocate the oil cap. I had to on the 07 Escape motor I put in for someone. Cut it flush and move it down where the 2.5L cap is. Have it welded up.
 
...plus $5 shipping, haha. Thanks for the tip though. I just went out to NAPA and got one to try for under $4. It still touches the hood, but it's definitely lower profile than the OE cap. It'll be easy to shave down the Stant cap. I also was able to find some "hard emission tubing" in 5/32" at O'Reilly to redo the fuel pressure regulator and evap system tubing, which was brittle and breaking apart.
 
Today was the day! I got everything ready enough to attempt firing the engine. After a few test cranks with the coil pack unplugged (which I'm glad I did, as I found I hadn't tightened the NPG adapter fuel fittings...) I plugged the coil pack in and it immediately roared to life. Still a few things to do to get it drivable (coil pack isn't mounted on anything, haven't made a throttle bracket yet, clutch needs bled, etc. but getting it running and hearing that Duratec growl for the first time in fifteen months was a hugely exciting milestone!

 
Great to see man, super pumped for you! Likin' that hood too. Exhaust sounded good on the revs too. I could be wrong, but I'm thinkng the idle issues could be the computer learning. Gatta be satisfying for sure. 'Grats again.
 
Thanks! It might improve a bit once the ECU learns, but most likely it won't ever idle quite right until it's tuned. I'm just glad it seems to run reasonably ok with some throttle. Keeps the hope alive that I might be able to drive it to a tuner.
 
If you are using an Xcal your tuner may be able to set up something basic up for you. I bought the Xcal where I had my car tuned and they were able to load a very basic tune to deal with the injectors so it would run a little better. I was able to drive the car for a week to work out any bugs and then over an hour to the dyno tune with no issues. If the tuner has done a 3L Contour before I would think they could work something out.
 
I've only looked at SCT's site to see the certified local shops, but I haven't looked outside of the immediate Columbus area or started contacting anyone. Based on their site, the least sketchy so far looks like LaSota Racing Technologies. I have a number of coworkers who've used Slowmotion and were pretty happy, but none with Fords. If you have any recommendations I'm all ears.
 
rollinstylee said:
I've only looked at SCT's site to see the certified local shops, but I haven't looked outside of the immediate Columbus area or started contacting anyone. Based on their site, the least sketchy so far looks like LaSota Racing Technologies. I have a number of coworkers who've used Slowmotion and were pretty happy, but none with Fords. If you have any recommendations I'm all ears.
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I hear good things about Slowmotion. If its not too far, check out Smokey's Dyno http://www.smokeysdyno.com/ they have tuned a few 3L's and a turbo 3L or two.
 
A guy on NECO had his 3.0 Cougar done at DynoTune motorsports out on the west side, west Broad Street. CougarFest had a dyno event there a couple of years ago; the guy mainly does LSx and Mustangs (doesn't everybody?), but he is proficient with the SCT software, and has Duratec experience. That's most likely where I'll be taking mine once I get around to doing a swap.
 
I saw DynoTune on the SCT website too but didn't know any of their background. I'll put them and Smokey's on the candidates list. I'd be willing to go to Akron for a tuner who's done a few of these. Thanks a lot for the leads! Anyone else?

This is probably a stupid question, but as I know nothing about engine tuning, will I need to buy my own XCal handheld, or will a shop have a licensed version they use during the session?
 
Everything I've ever seen from Slowmotion has been imports, so I'd personally be less likely to go there as they seem so preoccupied with boosted 4-cylinders. But that's just a general impression.

When we visited DynoTune, I was expecting the guy to be all condescending towards a bunch of guys with front-wheel-drive V6's, but he was entirely the opposite. Very nice and really accommodating, interested in how the cars were modified, and quite into it.

You might want to contact Nadthomas on NECO if you want to ask specific questions; it was his 3.0 Cougar that was tuned there.
 
rollinstylee said:
This is probably a stupid question, but as I know nothing about engine tuning, will I need to buy my own XCal handheld, or will a shop have a licensed version they use during the session?
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You'll need to buy one, it's a significant expense but nice to have. It actually does a lot of stuff, I wish I had time to play around with it more.
 
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