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Bov not making full "noise"

Livinsvt said:
Your probably making less boost now, as theres less restriction. The spring in there maybe rated for higher causing it to flutter. You can throw another washer in to see what happends. Blip your throttle to see if the valve moves, if it does than it needs that shim. Its possible it could be leaking around the o-ring or the base. RFLS are crap BOV's any way. Ditch the leak pos and get something better.
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I agree with this. When I turned the boost up on my old SVT, I had an issue where the bov was not operating properly. It wasn't blowing off, and giving off more of a fluttering noise, I'm not sure if it was the same noise you are getting ryan, but it sounds like it. I solved the problem by shimming the bov accordingly.
 
Ok well good we are getting somewhere now, explain this "shim" deal if you wouldnt mind? And where is the spring?

And if its not making as much boost then why is it still reading 8psi low and 14 psi high on the boost guage?
 
ryanblacksvt said:
Ok well good we are getting somewhere now, explain this "shim" deal if you wouldnt mind? And where is the spring?
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its in the instructions:

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ryanblacksvt said:
And if its not making as much boost then why is it still reading 8psi low and 14 psi high on the boost guage?
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depends where the boost is read. if it is at the turbo then yes the turbo is still making 8 or 14 psi. if its read at the enigine then its going to be less in the above case.

if its read at the engine then it should be making more boost at the turbo to account for pressure loss in the pipes and interecooler.
 
I dont have instructions to any of it, remember Stazi built this car not me.

Stazi if you see this please jump in and tell us where the boost is read
 
Are you sure your BOV is still working and causing the noise? The fluttering could be the air surging back to the compressor wheel if your BOV wasn't opening.
 
Livinsvt said:
Your probably making less boost now, as theres less restriction. The spring in there maybe rated for higher causing it to flutter. You can throw another washer in to see what happends. Blip your throttle to see if the valve moves, if it does than it needs that shim. Its possible it could be leaking around the o-ring or the base. RFLS are crap BOV's any way. Ditch the leak pos and get something better.
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how is his car "A LOT" more powerful if he's running less boost?
 
Blackcoog said:
Are you sure your BOV is still working and causing the noise? The fluttering could be the air surging back to the compressor wheel if your BOV wasn't opening.
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i was just thinking the same thing as this happened to me b4. all through the period my 2.5 was turbo'd and sometime into my 3L, i had that sound too. my problem was that i routed the vacuum lines wrong. brian helped me troubleshoot it and my BOV started to work. except according to ryan, his BOV does work.
 
Ryan,

Unscrew the body of the BOV, inside will be the spring and washers. There is nothing to worry about, no small pieces to loose or anything. Add another washer (i am pretty sure stazi already had some in there) where the others are. This will effectively require more force to open the valve.

I have to agree with everyone else in that the RFL's are not that great. They sound cool but function poorly in my experience. Mine leaked soo bad I could feel a vacuum if I put my hand over the opening at idle. Sadly it took over a week of not being able to get a tune to stop the damn stalling before this was discovered.

An easy way to test if it is leaking at idle is to take a small plastic bag and rubber-band it around the opening. If the air in the bag is sucked out....vac leak.
 
Awsome, thank you for the pointers, I will try that after work tomorow, I will post results after.

Thank you all for educating me in my ignorance, I learn day to day and am very thankfull to you all for teaching me.
 
BAD SVT said:
i was just thinking the same thing as this happened to me b4. all through the period my 2.5 was turbo'd and sometime into my 3L, i had that sound too. my problem was that i routed the vacuum lines wrong. brian helped me troubleshoot it and my BOV started to work. except according to ryan, his BOV does work.
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Boost is just a measure of resistance, he has less of it , but more overall flow. Like squeezing a garden hose, pressure goes up flow goes down, you let go than pressure goes down and flow goes up. Understand? :cool:

Ryan Adam has it explained. Just be carefull when you un screw it, it will pop out a little (not a big deal). I would just unscrew the end and not take the valve off completely. It appears to seal good now, if you remove and reinstall you could potentialy have a issue with it re-sealing. Just an fyi.
 
Ok awsome, thanks again guys, I will try that this week, maybe tonight after work. Hopefully this helps out.

This wont mess with boost pressure will it, it will still stay at 8psi and 14psi correct?
 
ryanblacksvt said:
Ok awsome, thanks again guys, I will try that this week, maybe tonight after work. Hopefully this helps out.

This wont mess with boost pressure will it, it will still stay at 8psi and 14psi correct?
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since its reading at the manifold it will not effect anything.

removing or adding washers will adjust how easily the bov will open/seal.
 
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