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Got the SVT to the track with new new mods...

my best 60' was a 2.29 but i ran a 15.42 at 91.7 and i don't have as much done to the car as you do. no tune. drop in K&N, Resonator replaced with glasspack and mufflers changed to apex lookalikes from ebay. tires are fuzion HRi's stock size. think you gotta work on your shifting some more. and go all the way up to the redline. our engines are high end power. use it
 
Going back to the track tomorrow after work... Hopefully this time I can get into the 14's or at least a good bit closer....

Car is now tuned feels a lot stronger than it did before. We got the Air/fuel dialed in right at 12.5:1 which helped out a good bit. Had to play with the maf curve a little bit to compensate for the intake differences and a few other changes. It definitely feels a LOT stronger now...

Track should be prepped much better this time as it is a big event. So hopefully I can cut some real good 60' times. :D
 
Do not deflate your front tires. That only adds extra rolling resistance. I bet it cost you at least .2 & 1 mph if not more. Run them at the normal range of ~35psi. You will get plenty of bite to overwhelm the FWD chassis. I've never deflated my tires to run a FWD setup. Matter of fact I inflate the rears to max pressure (~45psi) to reduce rolling resistance & help stop front to rear weight transfer. (Stiff springs and struts help too :laugh: )

With your mods and good air you should be dipping into the 14's (Needs a 2.2 or better launch) and 92+ mph. However like you say if your A/F is in the dumps it will kill power above 5000rpm. Even .5 off drops power noticeably. The stock parameters are more like 2 full points off. :blackeye: Tuning is such a grossly overlooked area!
 
99Mystique ATX said:
We got the Air/fuel dialed in right at 12.5:1 which helped out a good bit.
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That is still too rich though better then stock.
On typical premium fuel you want it in the 13-13.2 range. Good fuel quality or 92+ octane will give you a couple tenths leeway up the scale.
 
Yea, we did quite a bit of work to get it to where it is and it runs WAY better. It actually pulls up top now...

So a little leaner is still safe huh? I run 93 in the car anyways so it should be fine. When we were finalizing the tune we changed it from running IIRC 12.35:1 to 12.5:1 and even that small change made a very noticeable difference. I'd imagine that leaning it out that little bit more should yield good results...
 
Well, got back yesterday and unfortunately only got a couple runs in due to it being really busy there. But, car definitely ran better with the tune in it. Not where I was hoping to be but getting a bit closer!

Best run:
60' - 2.302
330 - 6.489
1/8 - 9.953
MPH - 71.69
1000 - 12.880
1/4 - 15.359
MPH - 91.46

Considering the trap speed i'd say that helped out a bit. Before I go next time i'll lean it out a little bit more and hopefully we get a slower night so I can work out my launch and shift points.
 
Well, got back yesterday and unfortunately only got a couple runs in due to it being really busy there. But, car definitely ran better with the tune in it. Not where I was hoping to be but getting a bit closer!

Best run:
60' - 2.302
330 - 6.489
1/8 - 9.953
MPH - 71.69
1000 - 12.880
1/4 - 15.359
MPH - 91.46

Considering the trap speed i'd say that helped out a bit. Before I go next time i'll lean it out a little bit more and hopefully we get a slower night so I can work out my launch and shift points.
 
It wasn't on a dyno unfortunately. I'm hoping to get it on the dyno at some point this year to see what i'm putting down power wise...
 
NEWB. QUESTION..Do you include the R/T in the total your car is given for the 1/4 ? If not..it is in the 14's.. G
 
R/T has zero bearing on the E/T. You could sit at the line all afternoon after the green, and still pull the same time as someone who took off in .001 seconds.
 
Andy Bennett said:
R/T has zero bearing on the E/T. You could sit at the line all afternoon after the green, and still pull the same time as someone who took off in .001 seconds.
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thanks for that..handy to know. If your not really racing and just trying for a time...you can launch in your own time and not fluff it..G.
 
gorman said:
thanks for that..handy to know. If your not really racing and just trying for a time...you can launch in your own time and not fluff it..G.
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Exactly.

The E/T is important in bracket racing or eliminations, when the win goes to the guy who reaches the finish line first. This is where the "holeshot" phenomenon comes into play.

But if all you are doing is getting some E/T's on record, yeah - wait until you're good and ready.

A few years ago at CougarFest, one of the guys was sitting at the light like that. A lot of people looked at him like he was nuts, but when he rolled back to the paddock he had timeslip with a R/T of over 3 seconds, and a 14.7 E/T on a 2.5 Cougar...
 
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