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How flush to cut pilot bushing

9

95Mike

CEG'er
Joined
Feb 28, 2001
Messages
168
Location
Baka Laka Daka Street
Hey guys, I'm getting ready to mount the mtx to my new 3l build and was wondering how flush I need to cut it. Right now it varies from 1/16" to 3/32" out from the end of the crank. Do I really need to grind it down perfectly flush? Don't really want to "try it and see if it works." I'm being a little :censored::censored::censored::censored::censored:.
 
Stop what you are doing. You have a possibility of grinding into the crank. Do what we did on mine. Drill out a slit on each side of the bushing. It's aluminum and should be easy. Then take a slide hammer and go from the inside and hook it. Start slide hammer action. Presto!

Cost:
Slide hammer kit = $130 refundable deposit
Drill bit = Free if you you have one laying around
Drill= same as above
Feeling of getting that piece of crap out of there = priceless.:laugh:
 
Hmmm, didn't know it really needed to come out that bad. I think I'll try the heavy grease/pack it in there/hammer dowl into it method first and if not go with your suggestion.
 
Rotozip FTW. I removed the pilot busing out of my SBC with one and it took less than a minute. I cut it into 2 pieces and it came right out.
 
95Mike said:
Hmmm, didn't know it really needed to come out that bad. I think I'll try the heavy grease/pack it in there/hammer dowl into it method first and if not go with your suggestion.
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I've had no success going that route even though it is supposed to work.
 
Yeah Reebs is right. For those who get it to work, they must have great luck. kscontourkid and I tried that method and it resulted only in a mess of grease everywhere. So we went with plan B.:cool:
 
95Mike said:
Hey guys, I'm getting ready to mount the mtx to my new 3l build and was wondering how flush I need to cut it. Right now it varies from 1/16" to 3/32" out from the end of the crank. Do I really need to grind it down perfectly flush? Don't really want to "try it and see if it works." I'm being a little :censored::censored::censored::censored::censored:.
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Does the flywheel fit? That's how close you need it.
 
muntus said:
Does the flywheel fit? That's how close you need it.
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It's not really dealing with the flywheel. It deals more with the mtx bolting up the the 3L. If you don't then you have a possibility damaging the transmission and components. It's best to remove all of the bushing for ease of mind. But if methods already stated don't do the trick, then you need to have it as close to the crank as possible.
 
I bet he could cut it off flush with an angle grinder, even polishing the crank a little, and still be okay. I don't remember what it looks like, but even if you knicked the crank, it doesn't bolt to the flywheel on that surface. Right?:shrug:
 
muntus said:
...it doesn't bolt to the flywheel on that surface. Right?:shrug:
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Correct. If it is not "flush" enough the mtx won't want to mate all the way to the engine. Cranking down on the bolts if this should happen could damage both I'd imagine. In my research most people just used a sawzall or (in my case) a cut-off wheel. Just thought someone might be able to pitch in a pic or something of how much they took off.
 
the problem with leaving it in there is it can create an imbalance in the crank if you dont get it perfect. that may not make a difference on these engines but i know on other engines it can make all the difference if the crank is very much out of balance. that bushing weighs a lot for how small it is. that is my experience. if people have done it then you should be fine. the grease method does work you have to have a near air tight seal between the punch and the bushing or it will squirt grease everywhere. if you get a good seal like i did on my engine all you have to do is hit the punch a few times with a 5lb sledge or something of that nature. it takes some pretty heavy force to get it to work.
 
crankbushing2qm.jpg


i only had a dremel and went through many discs lol
 
Well the dowel method rarely works the sucker is very tight so since i do so many of the swaps I bought a 1" tap a 7/8" drill bit and I threaded the pilot bushing then I had a 9" long 1" bolt and threaded it in the new threads and used a hammer to knock it out works perfect. I would try to get it out because if it does contact which we don't know it will wear bearings plus the crank will be slightly off-balanced if any. Joey
 
i just carefully cut into the sides of it with a cutting wheel making 5 or 6 cuts and compress it to the center and it comes off eventually but i will be using joeys method this weekend
 
BurritaSVT said:
Well the dowel method rarely works the sucker is very tight so since i do so many of the swaps I bought a 1" tap a 7/8" drill bit and I threaded the pilot bushing then I had a 9" long 1" bolt and threaded it in the new threads and used a hammer to knock it out works perfect. I would try to get it out because if it does contact which we don't know it will wear bearings plus the crank will be slightly off-balanced if any. Joey
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That's brilliant!! I'm going to try that this weekend. I don't feel like cutting into the crank accidentally by way of some of the other methods recommended here. That thing was in there too tight for the grease method to work so I'll give your method a shot. It's probably a $40 tap or so isn't it? :(
 
Dude, buy a damn rotozip bit and pop it into a drill. Make 2 cuts and it will fall out of the damn crank. You won't cut into the crank enough to do any harm, it's steel.... the bushing is brass or copper. It's not hard to tell when you've cut through, or even guesstimate when you're through.

This is a simple aspect of the conversion, you spend more time yakin about it than it does to actually do the damn job ;) :D
 
Well, if that little nub inside the end of my crank is causing any imbalance, I sure hope my DMD on the other side of the crank is canceling it out.
 
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