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Oil pressure guage how-to?

kscontourkid

Veteran CEG'er
Joined
Nov 4, 2004
Messages
941
Location
Overland Park, KS
ok either it doesnt exist i suck at using our search engine or our search engine sucks...

What needs to be done to install an oil pressure guage. i seem to remember a special kit that made it easier or something to the sort. any drilling involved?

a how too would be nice. and for running coolant temp gauge as well.

Thank you in advance. also if you have any links that might help too.
 
That thread makes my head hurt...lol...on a brighter note, I just ordered my nordskog electrical sending units for temp and oil pressure. I'm pumped to start my project! Having Fluke pressure simulation and calibration devices at work is certainly going to help.
 
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electronic. my bad i am looking at an electronic oil pressure guage and i talked to the guru at my work and he said to put it in the stock location and splice the wires but i thought i had read somewhere on here that that didnt work. i could be delirious. it has been known to happen.

anyone have pictures of the oil pressure electronic sender installed so i can see whats going on? i would like to do the T off setup but dont quite understand what is being said and what works and doesnt work.
 
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electronic. my bad i am looking at an electronic oil pressure guage and i talked to the guru at my work and he said to put it in the stock location and splice the wires but i thought i had read somewhere on here that that didnt work. i could be delirious. it has been known to happen.

anyone have pictures of the oil pressure electronic sender installed so i can see whats going on? i would like to do the T off setup but dont quite understand what is being said and what works and doesnt work.

My electrical pressure gauge was as simple as screwing the sender into the rear head and running the wire to the gauge.

What exactly are you wanting to tee and why?
 
My electrical pressure gauge was as simple as screwing the sender into the rear head and running the wire to the gauge.

What exactly are you wanting to tee and why?


it has been suggested to T off the stock oil pressure sender so that you are reading oil pressure off the main feed, not on the head after the restriction in the head gasket ...

same with a water temp sender at the stock location
 
My electrical pressure gauge was as simple as screwing the sender into the rear head and running the wire to the gauge.

That's the easiest place by far but not necessarily the best readings. At least in my experience.

With the electric sending unit its hard to find a place where you can fit it. Which is why I remotely mounted my sending unit under the hard coolant tube running across the engine. I should take pictures when I take my car back out.
 
Brapple is right. that is what i am looking for a picture of. the T off. if anyone has a picture of it that would be wonderful. my old engine just got discarded so i have no way of testing a setup without tearing into my DD. i have had some weird problems and want to make sure my oil pressure is good. also i take the right handers hard and want to make sure i dont lose oil pressure or if i do ill know before it is damaging. i only have a Hybrid with contour heads and have put a lot of time and money into the engine so i want the most accurate oil pressure reading possible to protect my investment. and yes i built this engine with track use in mind.
 
Do you have A/C? Alot of us guys run our mechanical oil pressure lines to the oil feed behind the A/C compressor; your problem would be that the electric sender will not fit unless the A/C compressor is removed. That oil feed is the best one for the most accurate immediant readings though.
 
I guess the first question is how comfortable are you with taking parts off your car.

The best way to mount the sending unit is like Redlineracer12 by remotely mounting the sender else where and hooking up a supply line off of a good test port. The best port is one that is located above the stock oil pressure sending unit. This is directly behind the A/C compressor. To access it you need to remove the accessory drive belt and unbolt the A/C compressor and without disconnecting the lines move it out of your way gently being careful not to bend or break the A/C lines.

I can't remember the size of the fitting, but 3/8" NPT comes to mind as the correct size. You will need to find an adaptor to go from the 3/8" to 1/4" NPT so that you can run a 1/4" copper line to your sensor. I bent my line so that it came up behind the A/C compressor and out in front of the IMRC box. I painted everything black so that it didn't stand out and tie strapped the line to the A/C hose infront of the radiator. Routing the wiring is the easy part. I'd say if you have all of the parts this job will take you less then an hour to complete it.

So as far as a parts list...

-1 x 3/8" male NPT to 1/4" female NPT adaptor (check to see if 3/8" NPT is the correct size)
-2 x 1/4" male NPT compression fittings
-roughly 2 feet of 1/4" copper tubing
-1 x 1/4" female to whatever size your sensor thread is.
-~5' of wire to route it smoothly to your gauge.
 
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CSVT#49
thank you very much. that is what i was looking for. i built and installed my 3L hybrid so i am very familiar with how everything goes together. your explanation is exactly what i needed and is much appreciated.

now does anyone possible have a picture of this setup?

thank you to all
 
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