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HVAC LED Install How-To With Photos

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HVAC LED How-To

There is so much controversy and confusion about which size of LED to buy that fits into the little plastic bulb-cradles in the back of your HVAC panel.

Well, the incandescent bulbs that come stock are #194, just like the floorboard courtesy lights. I bought these LED replacements from AutoLumination.com for about $7 apiece, and they did not fit; the bases were just a little too big around for the HVAC sockets, as can be seen in the first pic. And the flat part where the metal contacts reside are a little too long. A pity, because these are great LEDs; wonderful, strong coloration and a wide angled lens for widespread illumination. So I improvised, and with great success.

I have made this simple, photo-guided How-To in order to solve this issue once and for all.

In this tutorial, we are going to both sand down and shorten your new bulbs in order to make them fit snugly in place. You will need four things:
-Your two new bulbs
-Sandpaper (I used 3M 160 grit, but this is probably not that important)
-A power drill/screwdriver that can open wide enough to accept the clear end of your bulbs (most probably can).
-Wire cutters

Here, we see the new LED bulb, unmodified, next to the HVAC socket.

01.jpg




To sand the bulb in a radial manner, I simply inserted the clear end into the power screwdriver/drill where you would normally insert the drill, making sure to leave plenty of the base of the bulb exposed, and also making sure to chuck the drill down firmly onto the tip of the bulb, but not so tight that it would break or damage it. This doesn't seem to be a big issue, as the plastic seems pretty tough and my bulbs' lenses came out perfect and unscratched.

02.jpg

03.jpg




Once the bulb was secured in the drill, I used my forefinger/thumb to hold a piece of the sandpaper, folded, over the bulb's base, as seen below.

04.jpg




At first, while using the other hand to operate the drill, I gently held the sandpaper there as the bulb spun, and gradually increased the pressure betwen my fingers. You must keep stopping the drill moving the sandpaper around, as it gets dull and full of plastic dust quickly, as seen in the following image:

05.jpg




Sand the bulb in this manner until the base's circumference is about as big around as the contact tab is wide. Below is a picture of the two bulbs next to each other, the unmodified one on the left and the sanded one on the right. The difference is not huge; as you sand, keep trying to place the socket over the bulb, until it fits without having to apply a lot of force; you don't want an oversized base that will widen the socket or it might not fit into the holes on the back of the HVAC panel.

06.jpg




Now for the last modification: Making the contact tab shorter. All you have to do is bend the contact wires out straight to get them out of the way and expose the tab. Then, using the wire cutters, simply snip off about one third of the length of the tab. Then bend the contact wires back,cutting off a little bit of them if they are too long now.

07.jpg




On the left is the sanded, shortened bulb. On the right is the original. Go ahead and modify the other bulb.

08.jpg




Now you have two custom-fit LED bulbs for your HAVC panel.

09.jpg
 
The Final Step

The Final Step

Here's the fun part: Pop those suckers back into your HVAC panel. Remember, these are LEDs, so install them with the power OFF. Install the first one and turn the running lights on. If it does not work, then you have the polarity reversed; just kill the power, pull the socket out and rotate it 180 degrees. Repeat the procedure for the other bulb.

10.jpg




Complete... Presto!

11.jpg


And the main gauge cluster, also with LED backlighting (these are #24 bulbs, which fit fine into the sockets without mods, BTW)...

12.jpg




Note: I did not use the factory SVT gauge faces, what you see here is a set of the S&H Auto Trends gauge faces that everyone here hates. I hated them too, when I had incandescent bulbs (the white light showed through the gauge faces because they weren't thick enough, and numbers glowed a faded light-blue), but with blue LED backlighting these gauges are beautifully vivid and look great.
 
so.. thats a white faced hvac panel ?? can you do it with the stock panel ?

Actually, it looks better with stock gauge faces... On any tour other than an SVT, that is. SVT gauge faces are too thick to allow the blue light through. That's why in the SVT case scenario, S&H Gauges are good.

In any tour besides an SVT, your stock gauges with blue LEDs behind them will end up looking like Striker2's gauges in this thread: http://contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread.php?t=16893

And also, thanks to Striker2 for all the advice on the LED bulbs/sizes/etc. He largely helped make this venture possible.
 
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Did you have to scrap any of the film of of the back?


Huh? Film on the back? Of the HVAC gauge cluster you mean? Nope. I modified NOTHING but the LED bulbs in this exercise. Everything else was left exactly as it came stock. Pretty simple, took less than an hour, total.

Oh, and just in case any blue light actually were to show through the front of your HVAC panel or speedo gauges, all you have to do to fix this is take a black permanent marker and darken the back side of the gauge overlays (just don't cover up the places where the light is supposed to shine through, like the indicators and numbers (duh)).
 
Your results are not going to be the same for everyone else if they don't use the same color LEDs and the same HVAC panel overlay. For example, red is not going to glow through the HVAC if the factory green film is still in place. The colors are too different for the light to show through.

Just keep that mind everyone if you plan on attempting this.
 
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Your results are not going to be the same for everyone else if they don't use the same color LEDs and the same HVAC panel overlay. For example, red is not going to glow through the HVAC if the factory green film is still in place. The colors are too different for the light to show through.

Just keep that mind everyone if you plan on attempting this.

Yes that's true, I was speaking only for stock non-SVT gauges with blue LEDs. I would LOVE to see someone pair a set of red or orange gauge faces with matching LEDs, that would be amazing in a contour/stique.

And yeah, I don't know how to get rid of those pesky hot spots... I noticed them too. Perhaps if I tried to cover the tips of the LED lenses with a spot of chrome paint or something...? Or dim them a little with a tiny round dot of window tint (Yes! I could cut it out with a hole-punch!) I'm open to suggestions on this.
 
ill be going with Red LEDs for the gauges/HVAC/headlight switch in my SVT soon. they are stock gauges so i will post pics when im finished so everyone can see how they turn out.
 
With... stock SVT gauges? Won't those be too thick and green for any of the red to show through? :confused:

Fair warning: I tested my blue LEDs behind my stock gauges, and they looked very dim and greenish...
 
With... stock SVT gauges? Won't those be too thick and green for any of the red to show through? :confused:

Fair warning: I tested my blue LEDs behind my stock gauges, and they looked very dim and greenish...
i have a plan to fix that issue ;)

BTW yours look good.
 
Any chance in PMing me your secret? I'm in the process of doing my HVAC. I already did the main gauges and now I need an option for the HVAC other than S&H.
i havent started yet so im not sure how well its going to work. i should be ordering the LEDs tomorrow and then im going to stop at the JY and pick up a second HVAC to play with :D

so i dont have a secret yet to give
 
i havent started yet so im not sure how well its going to work. i should be ordering the LEDs tomorrow and then im going to stop at the JY and pick up a second HVAC to play with :D

so i dont have a secret yet to give

I still don't think mine look as good as your stock non-SVT gauges (yours look cleaner than the S&H version), but they look hella better than the stock SVT dim-green.

And this secret I MUST hear, as I'd much rather have modded stock SVT gauges. Keep us in the loop man, if this works and gets popular you could get a whole new standardized CEG technique named after you, sorta like knauberizing...

"Striker Gauges." It even sounds cool!
 
I'm in the works for doing a lot of the same stuff, but I was going to go with blue, which doesn't require as much modification. Laziness FTW :cool:
 
ordered the LEDs this morning. hopefully they will be here by this weekend. so i can at least get the HVAC and headlight switch working. i still need to find an extra SVT cluster that i can play with as well.
 
after playing around with 2 stock HVAC panels, a set of stock SVT gauges, and a stock headlight switch, i have decided to give up on using them. they are all just too thin. the headlight switch practically falls apart when you pull the face off. the film on the HVAC panel is just too thin. you have to only scrap off the parts directly behind what you want lit up. its just too small, just one little slip and you have taken off part of the black face and light will shine through where you dont want it. the same thing goes for the SVT gauges. while you wont be scraping off the black numbers, if you scrap off anything other than what you want lit you will see it through the white face. i do have one other thing im going to try with the gauges but im not sure how well its going to work.

the only option we have is looking like S&H autotrends. i cant even call the number they have advertised to talk to someone.
 
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