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can't put my finger...

100psi fuel pressure means your pressure regulator is probably stuck or your return is clogged somewhere further back.
Assuming it is a returnstyle engine.

You will need to pull the regulator and see if something got pushed into the fuel lines when you were changing the pump. the regulator unscrews from the rail.
you can just unbolt it and look at it, blow compressed air through it, and use a hand vacuum pump to see if the valve opens up.
If that all looks good try to blow some compressed air in the fuel line back to the tank and see if it flows or just stops.
Look for kinks in the lines anywhere you may have worked on the car.
 
Reebs said:
Any update?
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hey jeff. ur timing is impeccable dude. i just stepped away from working on the car since i touched it last and was just about to post my findings. anywayz, i just took the fuel pressure regulator apart. i blew into the smaller hose and it was fine. no obstacles. when i turned the key to the on position, fuel came out of the bigger tube with... well u guessed it. 100psi of pressure. it squirted all the way to the ceiling. crazy! bottom line is i know the return(smaller) line is unclogged. and fuel came outta the bigger one, so i know i didnt accidentally switch them. In ur expertise, does that now mean there's only one culprit left? the regulator i mean?
 
I would assume that the regulator took a crap if the return line isn't clogged and if you have proper vacuum./boost at the fuel pressure regulator.
 
its not the regulator. the fuel pressure is still pegged past 100psi and the wideband is still reading 10.0. any suggestions for my next move? the only possible thing left is the fuel pump. wot sorta pump pushes out that sorta pressure :shrug:?
 
Is something shorting out or did something jiggle loose around your connections at the fuel pump since you swapped it? It did work properly, so something bit the dust. It has to be fuel pump/connections related if your return line isn't clogged...
 
Reebs said:
Is something shorting out or did something jiggle loose around your connections at the fuel pump since you swapped it? It did work properly, so something bit the dust. It has to be fuel pump/connections related if your return line isn't clogged...
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i know am probably off on this one. but if the regulator's working right, shouldn't it be able to restrict the amount of fuel the motor's getting regardless of fuel pump size? obviously am not talking about a HUGE pump. the one i installed is a 255l/h.
 
You kind of have to go through a process of elimination with things like this. Yes you should see what the pressure is with the vacuum line off, it should go to a base pressue. Will idle just fine. Put a plug or screw in the vacuum line. Than check to see what the vacuum is at the regulator, by putting a gauge on the regulator line.
 
Livinsvt said:
You kind of have to go through a process of elimination with things like this. Yes you should see what the pressure is with the vacuum line off, it should go to a base pressue. Will idle just fine. Put a plug or screw in the vacuum line. Than check to see what the vacuum is at the regulator, by putting a gauge on the regulator line.
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how exactly do i check to see wot the vacuum is at regulator. am not sure am following wot u're sayn.
 
Well you need a vacuum gauge. Do you have one? You can get them at any auto parts store. They usualy come in a hand pump form, sometimes with bleeder kits to bleed brakes and such.

You really should see what your vacuum is doing, if you have a gauge mounted else were, that should be fine. Personaly I like to see what it is at the regulator itself.

edit: Your checking two things 1. Fuel pressure with vacuum line off
2. vacuum reading at fuel regulator
 
Livinsvt said:
Well you need a vacuum gauge. Do you have one? You can get them at any auto parts store. They usualy come in a hand pump form, sometimes with bleeder kits to bleed brakes and such.

You really should see what your vacuum is doing, if you have a gauge mounted else were, that should be fine. Personaly I like to see what it is at the regulator itself.

edit: Your checking two things 1. Fuel pressure with vacuum line off
2. vacuum reading at fuel regulator
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gatcha. i'll try that tomorrow. so wot are the possible results on the vacuum test? the closest thing i have is a boost/vacuum guage.
 
Look for something like this by mityvac http://www.mityvac.com/pages/products_hvpo.asp

Vacuum reading should be around 20" with a warm motor, 16" or so on a cold motor.

Any idea what it reads now?

Fuel pressure with the line removed will not increase with boost or rpm. It will stay at a flate rate. There should be some change though.
 
Well at least you know it was good at one point. If its still at the same range your good. If its not, than invest in the gauge. What is the LIM mod by the way? Is there anything with that could cause concern with fuel? Injectors, rail modifications etc.... Might be another place to look soon, just throwin that out there.
 
Livinsvt said:
Well at least you know it was good at one point. If its still at the same range your good. If its not, than invest in the gauge. What is the LIM mod by the way? Is there anything with that could cause concern with fuel? Injectors, rail modifications etc.... Might be another place to look soon, just throwin that out there.
Click to expand...

the LIM mod is a set up that joey @ nautilus performance group came up with. it replaces the svt lim. the fuel rail mod came with it also. its a silver block that the stock fuel pressure regulator bolts to. that was so it could work with my return style system. u're right tho about checking all that at some point. (sigh)... this elimination process is gonna take a while isnt it?
 
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Well it could, but not necessarily so. This is what happens when you change so much and add alot of things. Trust me, I know how your feeling.

This mod does kind of raise a red flag. Not necessarily with the product itself, but this is a significant portion of the fuel system that you completey changed, and now you have pressure issues. Seems there could be something there maybe with the install, or "possibly" with the product. Not accusing or anything. Just stating a fact. In these situations you have to trace your steps, its almost always has to do with the way you installed a new part, or the new part itself. If everything else in the fuel system is what you were using prior to the swap, is working fine, you know were to direct your attention(read new parts). If all those check out, than you move on. Any chance of debri in the fuel rail or injectors? Maybe a plastic cap left on in injector or on the rail, or one stuck in the manifold. See what I am getting at here.

Hang in there, you will figure it out. :cool:
 
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