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Most Useful Gauges

Most Useful Gauges

  • Air/Fuel

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Oil Pressure

    Votes: 23 62.2%

  • Volts

    Votes: 5 13.5%

  • Coolant Temp

    Votes: 6 16.2%

  • Fuel Pressure

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Oil Temp

    Votes: 2 5.4%

  • Other

    Votes: 1 2.7%
  • Total voters
    37
B

Blkdvll

CEG'er
Joined
Dec 18, 2006
Messages
97
Location
San Luis Obispo, Ca.
I am going to purchase a A-Pillar gauge pod. I am probably going to only go with a two pod. My question is, since I'm not turbo'd/SC'd, and I'm not running a custom burn, what would be the most useful gauges to get? I am doing this mainly for looks, but I want function as well.
 
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for our car,oil pressure and volts....or coolant temp. since ford,for some reason didnt include those gauges stock
 
Poll only let me vote for one, but I think oil pressure and volts, for me. That is because I am running a dual amp setup in the trunk, would like to keep battery from dying.
 
there are obviously 3 main gauges (oil pressure, water temp, and volts) that people are saying so why not just buy the lotek triple pillar pod and install all 3 gauges?:shrug: why limit yourself to just 2?
 
Coolant temp and oil pressure are the two most important things as waterpump failure and oil starvation are relatively common problems on contours and can lead to major disasters. Replacing a battery isn't as big of a deal as an engine. So, you can trust the factory coolant temp gauge and go volts, or get a second opinion with another gauge.
 
maddog440 said:
Coolant temp and oil pressure are the two most important things as waterpump failure and oil starvation are relatively common problems on contours and can lead to major disasters.
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This is a rather vague statement and probably more untrue than true. By now, practically every water pump has more than likely been changed out. The "bad" pumps were pre 98 models and 98's built in 97 for the most part. Oil starvation is easily prevented by keeping your oil level up and not driving like a moron. You have to figure that oil starvation is pretty rare on an ATX equipped vehicle and then figure in the 4 bangers which didn't have this "problem" at all unless the owner plain ran it out of oil. No car's engine is immune to that oversight.
Karl
 
Does anyone know at what temperature a duratec is considered running hot? 250, 260, 265??? If you don't, not sure what good a water temp gage is going to do you.
 
SVTNupe said:
Does anyone know at what temperature a duratec is considered running hot? 250, 260, 265??? If you don't, not sure what good a water temp gage is going to do you.
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considering that the low speed fan comes on at 212 and the high speed at around 218 I'd say anything above 230 is way to hot

the water temp gage is going to be more accurate then the stock one on the dash, you will also have a temp not just a range where it should be ... Its worth it to me to see finer detail then the stock temp guage


I also think that you need to learn your car, like I have my oil pressure gage sender on the head (yes I know and its getting moved soon) and I know how it reacts so if I see it read something different then I am use to then i know I might have a problem. I feel that an oil and water temp gage will be the same way
 
BrApple said:
considering that the low speed fan comes on at 212 and the high speed at around 218 I'd say anything above 230 is way to hot

the water temp gage is going to be more accurate then the stock one on the dash, you will also have a temp not just a range where it should be ... Its worth it to me to see finer detail then the stock temp guage
Click to expand...

I ask the question because for over two years my Tour ran regularly above 218. It wasn't unusual to see the aftermarket coolant temp gage approach 250 if I was really pushing it. The stock gage never got in the red when those temps were at 250. I've since change the stat and added some water wetter and the temps are below 212 but the stock gage reads on the low end of the normal. That's why I'm curious as to what temps really warp heads, etc.
 
well being from the North east I have never seen a car go over 218 unless there was a problem with the cooling system.

I would think that down in TX that the higher summer temps would make everything run hotter
 
BrApple said:
well being from the North east I have never seen a car go over 218 unless there was a problem with the cooling system.

I would think that down in TX that the higher summer temps would make everything run hotter
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That is what I was assuming at first as well but the temps were consistent whether winter driving or summer driving.
 
I look at my volt guage the MOST , my battery has a mind of its own as well, when I turn on the read defrost or the heat on the front windshield I drop volts, and I dont know why.
 
ryanblacksvt said:
I look at my volt guage the MOST , my battery has a mind of its own as well, when I turn on the read defrost or the heat on the front windshield I drop volts, and I dont know why.
Click to expand...


using both defrosters at the same time draws alot of voltage, seems pretty normal to me
 
BrApple said:
using both defrosters at the same time draws alot of voltage, seems pretty normal to me
Click to expand...

i read that cause the a/c kicks on to, to dry out the air... guess that why i dont run into a big problem with it, since there is a hole that drained the system out, so my compressor dont kick on. :blackeye:
 
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