TheMexicanJob
Banned?
you don't need a yellow top, two capacitors, and a bunch of blue lights to run Dual subs. granted it has performance and a bunch of other A/V to run.
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What sub is for me?
- Thread starter BigBEN
- Start date
SVTJON87
Hard-core CEG'er
am i correct when i say that the dual subs are pre loaded in that box?
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TheMexicanJob
Banned?
yes, cheesy subs, cheesy box.
elraido
I kant speel
Dual subs are about as low quality of a sub as you can find. I can see wires every where in there as well. Instead of hiding stuff to make it look good, he put everything in there screaming "look look look, hey look, come one look, please look!" Just because someone took time and money doesn't mean it was done well.
And I would suggest getting a MTX amp and sub. Good overall performance that won't break the bank. Get a single 10" sub. Honestly I have 2 10 subs in my car and it is overkill for rock music. Actually I would suggest saying screw a sub and just get components for the doors. You will get the nice fast bass response that you want with a decent amount of thump.
And I would suggest getting a MTX amp and sub. Good overall performance that won't break the bank. Get a single 10" sub. Honestly I have 2 10 subs in my car and it is overkill for rock music. Actually I would suggest saying screw a sub and just get components for the doors. You will get the nice fast bass response that you want with a decent amount of thump.
TheMexicanJob
Banned?
I have one 8" sub, but then again it has been mistaken for 3 10's, 2 12's, 15", etc. :laugh:
Lavell
CEG'er
About 60% of the car audio industry uses JL Audio subwoofers to compete for the loudest sound and deepest bass produced. And you're saying that they're average?! I truly don't think so. Have you even owned a JL Audio subwoofer or heard one for that matter?
TheMexicanJob
Banned?
Mmmmm JL.
Since i bought JL stuff, been obsessed. 8W7, 12W7, 500/1, and i'm sure there's more that i'll end up buying.
Since i bought JL stuff, been obsessed. 8W7, 12W7, 500/1, and i'm sure there's more that i'll end up buying.
SVTJON87
Hard-core CEG'er
I'm not saying JL subs are bad but their are better values out there
TheMexicanJob
Banned?
on jl's "low" end they are a great value, sure when you start getting to W6's and W7's some people will think rip off, but JL is some of the best stuff i've heard. and not just their subs, their speakers are great as well.
JesusFreak
Hard-core CEG'er
OK, i've had 2 setups in this car so far... both of which included my 500/1 and 300/4 amplifiers by the best car audio company out there, JL Audio.
The first setup i had was a 12w6v2 in their HO Box. Man, that thing hit so hard, but was a little slower then I liked, so I sold it, and bought the 3 10w1v2s. Almost as loud when I wanted, but hit way faster, songs that I thought sounded like crap in a "system" sounded phenomanal.
I listen to alot of ska, chrisitan contemporary pop, gospel, and (i hate it but the wife loves it) country. The amp is absolutely the best amp I've ever had, but I want to downsize...
Anyone who says JL Audio is a ripoff, or bad value, i guess it depends on what it is you're describing as value. When I look at a amp that says 1000Watts, and then figure that I have to wire it a certain way, and thats max, and rms is way less, and yada yada yada, that sucks! The Jl Audio 500/1 puts down 500 watts not matter how you wire it, and doesnt put out any more, or any less. Its always at 500 watts, I like getting exactly what I am paying for, thats value!
As for their w6 and w7 subwoofers, they arent expensive, considering I seen 3 of their 13 inch w7s and a 1000/1 amp blow the windows out of a honda accord. The box was in the trunk, and every window was gone in less then 3 seconds. If you want power, you gotta pay.
Go JL Audio, you will never regret it!
pre98zetec
Veteran CEG'er
i have owned 2 8w7s and a 13w7, the 8s were decent and the 13 wasn't to bad decent sound quality and it got pretty loud,(both were off a 1000/1) nothing one of my Fi Q's or RE SX's can't compete with, for half the price.
i never said they were bad, they are average for what you pay for them. there are deffinetly better values for the same price, but JL is a good company.
JL Audio makes great subs...maybe even outstanding subs. To say they are just decent or "not too bad" is unfair to the build and sound quality they present. They are by no stretch of the imagination average, but you will pay dearly for them. You can probably come close or even equal them with other options for less money, but that doesn't take anything away from their performance which is superb.
That said, there are other subs I'd opt for before JL Audio, but thats because I like bang for the buck, and in that regard you can better JL Audio.
As far as subwoofer diameter goes, I'd tend to look at larger diameter before smaller for that same value reason. If I can get a single 15 for substantially less than a pair of 10s, there is no chance I'd consider the 10s unless the space I had to work with didn't allow a speaker with a 15" dimension.
That said, there are other subs I'd opt for before JL Audio, but thats because I like bang for the buck, and in that regard you can better JL Audio.
As far as subwoofer diameter goes, I'd tend to look at larger diameter before smaller for that same value reason. If I can get a single 15 for substantially less than a pair of 10s, there is no chance I'd consider the 10s unless the space I had to work with didn't allow a speaker with a 15" dimension.
JesusFreak
Hard-core CEG'er
Unless you wanted to lsiten to music that requiered faster bass, 15's would be no good...
What? Explain to me what faster bass is.
TheMexicanJob
Banned?
a 15 has the same potential, just moves more air.
Ok here we go.
#1 the reason your w1's sounded better than the w6's is becuase it takes far less power to drive a W1 than it does to power a W6. Your using the same amp same power and thats not enough for the w6's so thats why the W1's sound better.
As far as 500watts soo all the time? Even when the subs arn't playing? wierd you should get that looked at.
All the windows on an accord blew out? BS its impossible as soon as a seal rips air pressure escapes there. All the windows will not blow out. 1 maybe but with 1000watts no way.
Best bang for the buck amp wise. Nine.1 $300 1200 watts rms.
You sir are speaking in a forum where you have no Idea what you are talking about. I don't go on the Bible forums and tell them how it happened soo I suggest before you come in here and fabricate lie's or whatever you realize where you are speaking.
I will ban people for misinformation like you posted above. Understand?
imnotacop420
Squire of Awesome
I can only imagine how sweet the sounds of a church organ would be through a couple of JL's!!!!!! 
JesusFreak
Hard-core CEG'er
No, the RMS on 1 12w6 is 450(EDIT, Sorry 400) watts, and the 3 10s is about the same...(EDIT, 450)
as for the windows on the accord, it was at a stereo shop in bradenton fl, and yeah, seen it with my own eyes... no diea if it was a customer car, or something they were messing around with or what, but i seen it happen, and saw only 1 1000/1, which they told me was the only amp...
as for quicker bass, a 15 will not respond as quickly as a 10 in general terms, i listen to alot of punk rock, and the same amp, on a 15 and a 10, the 15 takes longer to respond to the quick bass drum hits...
if you listen to rap with long bass tones, then a 15 is good, but for punk rock or ska music, a 10 is better
ALSO, JL Audio amps do not fluctuate the amount of watts they produce, its at 500 watts on the 500/1 no matter the ohms or volts, it either puts out 500, or it puts out zilch! Read up on your JL Audio http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps_pages.php?page_id=228
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JesusFreak
Hard-core CEG'er
and i misquoted myself here,
a 15 is not good for someone like me, who listen to music that requires quicker bass!
A 15 would not be "slower". Diameter of the driver has nothing to do with the quickness of a sub.
If you choose to respond with 10s are faster for my music without really understanding what makes a subwoofer "fast", I suggest rethinking it.
A 10 is better if you don't have, or are unwilling to give up the space for a 15. Or, alternatively, If you don't have the money for a 15.
Inductance is what limits a drivers speed, not diameter, or cone weight as some misguided folks think.
A 15" woofer will also have require less excursion for the same output. Less ecxursion almost always results in lower distortion. And, best of all, 15s are typically more efficient meaning less power is required to be sent for the same volume levels to be attained. Less power means less compression, less compression = more dynamic capability.
If you choose to respond with 10s are faster for my music without really understanding what makes a subwoofer "fast", I suggest rethinking it.
A 10 is better if you don't have, or are unwilling to give up the space for a 15. Or, alternatively, If you don't have the money for a 15.
Inductance is what limits a drivers speed, not diameter, or cone weight as some misguided folks think.
A 15" woofer will also have require less excursion for the same output. Less ecxursion almost always results in lower distortion. And, best of all, 15s are typically more efficient meaning less power is required to be sent for the same volume levels to be attained. Less power means less compression, less compression = more dynamic capability.
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