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High Idle

J

juspifool

CEG'er
Joined
Mar 31, 2002
Messages
133
Location
Erie, PA
Seems like I go through this every year. My SVT is idling at 1200-1800 most of the time. Once in a while it will drop to the normal 750, but it will usually hang at 1200ish before doing that. Over the past year I have changed the following:

IAC
TPS (More than once)
MAF
UIM/LIM Gaskets
EGR Gasket
IAC Gasket

I also have the TH fix in place. Does anyone have any ideas how to fix this? I am not seeing any CEL codes at the moment, but the last one I saw was a P1120, so I replaced the TPS again.

TIA,
Mark
 
Thats a good idea. I had thought about it, but I wasn't really sure how to go about testing it. As far as looks go, it doesn't look bad.
 
Changed the TPS connector and wires today. Still not idling right. Sometimes it will idle at 1500, others at 1200, others at 750. Seems to depend on how its feeling. Any more ideas?
 
juspifool said:
Changed the TPS connector and wires today. Still not idling right. Sometimes it will idle at 1500, others at 1200, others at 750. Seems to depend on how its feeling. Any more ideas?
Click to expand...

Tell me this,
1.Does it bog on acceleration?
2.Does it rev down kinda quickly,
3. Does the rvs raise in between shifts.
4. Did you check for lose coonections.
5. gas mileage? how's it doing worse or same
 
1.Does it bog on acceleration? - No boggin' at all, runs the same as always
2.Does it rev down kinda quickly, - Rev's sometimes drop slow
3. Does the rvs raise in between shifts. - Yes
4. Did you check for lose coonections. - Yes
5. gas mileage? how's it doing worse or same - Same
 
juspifool said:
1.Does it bog on acceleration? - No boggin' at all, runs the same as always
2.Does it rev down kinda quickly, - Rev's sometimes drop slow
3. Does the rvs raise in between shifts. - Yes
4. Did you check for lose coonections. - Yes
5. gas mileage? how's it doing worse or same - Same
Click to expand...

TPS. Sorry but thats the problem.
 
Here is what I learned tonight. If it is idling at ~1200 and I pop the hood and push down on the throttle arm, it will drop to a normal idle. I already adjusted the stopper out further, but it still seems to do it.
Any thoughts?
 
juspifool said:
Here is what I learned tonight. If it is idling at ~1200 and I pop the hood and push down on the throttle arm, it will drop to a normal idle. I already adjusted the stopper out further, but it still seems to do it.
Any thoughts?
Click to expand...

When you do this drive down the street. stop at a stop sign. Does the rpms go up again?

Did you recently do the half shaft removal?

Heres an idea, go outside run the car like normal. when the car runs high in the rpms, disconnect the IAC plug from the sensor. See what happens and come back and tell me
 
When coming to a stop sign, the revs would go up to ~1200 if I didn't have the clutch in coming to a stop. If I did, they just wouldn't drop below ~1200.

When I unplug the IAC it almost stalls, maybe idling at 250-300 on a warm motor.

My TB was optimized about 4 years ago by Buckshot.
 
juspifool said:
When coming to a stop sign, the revs would go up to ~1200 if I didn't have the clutch in coming to a stop. If I did, they just wouldn't drop below ~1200.

When I unplug the IAC it almost stalls, maybe idling at 250-300 on a warm motor.

My TB was optimized about 4 years ago by Buckshot.
Click to expand...


Honestly get a volt meter and test one of the wires from the TPS. Let me know what you come up with.

Don't you have a cel? My TPS did the same thing your talking about. To a T. So i know its exactly that problem.
 
this happened to me after i did the TH fix. even though the TH fix kept the rpm's down most of the time, it would keep the idle higher than usual. Try removing the TH fix, and see how that works. my car idles better without it.
 
SVTTOUR2391 said:
this happened to me after i did the TH fix. even though the TH fix kept the rpm's down most of the time, it would keep the idle higher than usual. Try removing the TH fix, and see how that works. my car idles better without it.
Click to expand...

But it wouldn't cause the rpms to stay high between shifts though.

Heck try it anyways.:shrug:
 
I'll have to get a volt meter mine seems to be lost at the moment.

I'll pull out the TH fix, what do I have to lose...
 
I removed the TH fix, that was very unhelpful. Idles at 2k+. Still looking for a multimeter. I also have the Ford CD so I am going to try to follow some of the procedures in that for the IAC.

I also just installed a new motorcraft IAC & TPS and it did not help.

Another thing that I noticed yesterday, might be related, my A/C was not working as if I was at WOT, it did start working later.

Thanks,
Mark
 
did you reset the pcm when you took the th fix out ... you know it has adapted to the airflow from the th fix so of course it would idle higher as it thinks it still needs that larger volume of air to hold idle ...
 
juspifool said:
I removed the TH fix, that was very unhelpful. Idles at 2k+. Still looking for a multimeter. I also have the Ford CD so I am going to try to follow some of the procedures in that for the IAC.

I also just installed a new motorcraft IAC & TPS and it did not help.

Another thing that I noticed yesterday, might be related, my A/C was not working as if I was at WOT, it did start working later.

Thanks,
Mark
Click to expand...

I removed my TH fix and cleaned BOTH sides of the electrical connectors with electrical cleaner to the following:

1. IAC
2. TPS
3. IAT
4. MAF

Doing so improved my idle to almost perfect. Try this if you have not already.
 
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