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Weird?

Ok bad idea, the car is either going to sit until summer where I'll fix it, or I'm looking at a 3L cougar right now that I may be purchasing. Who knows.
 
Pulled the 3L out yesterday and completely disassembled it. I found no problem with the head gaskets. The heads go off today to be pressure tested at a machine shop to make sure they were not the source of the leak. I'm done messing with this block and crank so I'll be picking up another block. Is there any way to have this block tested like the heads?
 
DyComet said:
Pulled the 3L out yesterday and completely disassembled it. I found no problem with the head gaskets. The heads go off today to be pressure tested at a machine shop to make sure they were not the source of the leak. I'm done messing with this block and crank so I'll be picking up another block. Is there any way to have this block tested like the heads?
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Yes. They can check it for leaks also.
 
Well since I've got this thread going in here, does this clutch look like it should after 200 miles? IT WAS BEING BROKEN IN PROPERLY! The flywheel is perfectly smooth but the pressure plate has some ridges on it. It might be perfectly normal but I just want to make sure.
sellcar001.jpg
 
Alright well I got bored tonight and I decided to completely dismantle the entire block. I was curious to see how the main bearings looked. After pulling it apart I found it odd that instead of seeing the coolant-oil mixture that I had seen everywhere else there was extremely burnt oil in all the passages running through the block. The oil did not appear to have any coolant mixed into it. It was by the far worst burnt oil I've ever smelled. Now this whole thing has got me really confused. Why would I be seeing this burnt oil in the block instead of the oil-coolant mix?
 
I read this topic and here's some words of advice that I have learned from ripping out, rebuilding, converting and installing a bunch of 3L's, 2.5L's etc., etc.
1) DON'T take the heads off unless you REALLY need too - and no, you don't need to to install the center engine mount - a bench grinder and 30 minutes of your time will get that mount in there - hell even Terry Haines asked me about this technique!
2) DON'T EVER swap cam caps from one motor's heads to another - they are LINE-BORED. Say what you want, but that's a fact. Do as you please - but I warned you...see point #9
3) DON'T EVER install the caps upside down or in any place but from there original position - hence why when I pull the cams out of an engine I lay the caps out on a piece of paper EXACTLY the same way they look/sat on the head, then as soon as the cam is out I install them back onto the head. See point #9
4) ALWAYS use either builders lube or STP oil treatment as an assembly lube when building any bearing - either cam or crank. Slop it on all bearing surfaces.
5) ALWAYS swap the crank bearing on ANY engine you tear down with Clevite 77's - I have YET to use any size other than standard. Only turned cranks need oversize (1 thou or 2 thou bigger)
6) don't turn a crank unless you have too - then think about how much it'll cost you and compare that to a whole new 3L for $350
7) Never pay more than $500 for a 3L and keep the mileage below 30k - there are TONS of them out there so don't settle.
8) Get a post 2002 motor and save yourself the headaches - plus it'll be in better condition than any older motor.
9) When in doubt undo it it - and reinstall it and do it S.L.O.W. cos once it's in - well, you know how much of a C*#T it is to pull out and fix you F@$K up.
10) Don't waste time on an engine with a knock. Pitch it and get another.
11) Always save your SVT cams, SVT chains, guides and sprockets and use all of those part on the new engine. There are BIG (yet hard to notice) changes in a lot of the 3L timing equipment. Sure some stuff MAY be the same by why risk it - see #9.
12) When you get burned out doing a build stop and take a LONG break. Either start up again tomorrow or go take a shower and chill. Sometimes this helps clear your thoughts - trust me I use this point a lot.
13) NEVER EVER EVER start up an newly built engine for the first time as normal! There is no oil on anything and unless you are clueless the first few seconds of engine engines running time are were the most damage is made. Start the car with your gas pedal PLANTED and the car in neutral. This does two things. Shuts off all fuel from the injectors (designed into the program to prevent idiots from flooding the engine on start-up) and two relieves some of the pumping load from the engine due to the intake restriction being lessened. Crank it for 30seconds! This will pump oil everywhere. Then release the key and restart without touching any of the pedals. It should fire right up.
14) ALWAYS let the car idle for a few minutes and check that the coolant is being taken down - top up as necessary and WATCH the temp gauge like a hawk. If it goes past the middle of the gauge - SHUT IT OFF! See if there is an air bubble in the coolant system by squeezing the 2" thick upper rad hose a few times - this should help burp out the bubble.
15) While you are letting the engine idle up to temp check oil around and especially underneath for any coolant or oil leaks. Shut it off and fix any leaks ASAP.
16) ALWAYS USE A TORQUE WRENCH AND MAKE SURE YOU KNOW THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN INCH-POUNDS [inlb] (12 inlb = 1 ftlb), FOOT-POUNDS [ftlb], and Newton-Meters [Nm]!
 
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All excellent advice. May I add on #2 to MARK the cam caps as well. Mark them for position and orientation. Use a scribe, number stamps, or center punch. This is good advice for main caps, rod caps, etc. as well.
 
Well here's the update. Spent some time over at the machine shop today. They have my block and my heads. The consensus is that there is an extremely small chance of there being a crack in the block. Our best guess is that one of the headgaskets was the source of the problem. It turns out that one of the heads needed to be milled very badly and that could've just added fuel to the fire. I found a crankshaft for sale with Clevite rod and main bearings that just had a regrind for $175. I'll be keeping this block and having the machine shop install the new crank and bearings. After the head work is completed and the testing is done I'll re-assemble. Only this time I'll put the cam caps in the right spots.
 
Damn man you keep having nothing but trouble. Well hopefully for your sake you will get it running. Keep at it...
 
Yeah, well it turns out that this whole problem came back to be completely on my shoulders. If I would've have mixed up the cam caps I wouldn't have had to buy a new head and the junkyard head that I bought was the problem. It was warped pretty bad and we found that there was coolant leaking from the head and dumping right down the timing cover directly into the oil pan. The heads were milled down and are now completely flat. I've got my new crankshaft and it's just all sitting waiting to be assembled. I'm just not very motivated to spend all the time to do it again.
 
Thanks Stazi,

I'll be picking up a 2005 Taurus engine on Friday. 13,000 miles for $400 and it's local so I don't have to worry about shipping. Here's my question, I have 2002 heads off a Taurus that are already ported and were pressure tested and milled down. Are these heads compatible with this block? The reason I ask is because on Team Ford they have a different head gasket for the 2005 Taurus engine and I don't know if they are the same.
 
I hope so. Are you going to boost this motor or not. I cant remember if you said you were going to buy that kit or not? I will have enough in August, and I cant wait! You still down for a little install party if you got that beast finished yet? If you need a hand drop me a line, I'm always down (not emotionally..dont worry lol)
 
Well I planned on buying the kit this summer but a good chunk of my turbo money has gone into this engine and getting it all back up and running again so it won't happen until next summer most likely. I'll be picking up the engine Friday morning and start the break down then. I've ordered everything I need from Bill for the entire build up so there's not going to be anything to stop me. If you want to stop by and help/learn a bit send me a PM and we'll talk I'd love to have some help.
 
Big Jim said:
All excellent advice. May I add on #2 to MARK the cam caps as well. Mark them for position and orientation. Use a scribe, number stamps, or center punch. This is good advice for main caps, rod caps, etc. as well.
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Everything Stazi and You said Jim.

I just want to add that buying a white-out pen from the office store works wonders. Use bit of solvent on a rag to wipe the part then just write on it with the pen. THe stuff lasts and unless you get more solvent on it oil won't touch it.
 
DyComet said:
Well I planned on buying the kit this summer but a good chunk of my turbo money has gone into this engine and getting it all back up and running again so it won't happen until next summer most likely. I'll be picking up the engine Friday morning and start the break down then. I've ordered everything I need from Bill for the entire build up so there's not going to be anything to stop me. If you want to stop by and help/learn a bit send me a PM and we'll talk I'd love to have some help.
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Yeah man just drop me a pm when you get ready to begin and we can hit it up. I have never seen a duratec taken apart so like you said it will def be a learning experience. I just ordered my mirko ten minutes ago along with my audi side markers so I'm pretty set on my exterior so I'm just saving for the turbo. Plus I have to find a way to buy the kit, put it on, and drive it without my livein girlfriend finding out....lol
 
Lol, well we can install the kit over here to help keep it secret but for some reason I think the front mount might give you away.
 
DyComet said:
Lol, well we can install the kit over here to help keep it secret but for some reason I think the front mount might give you away.
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ehh she isnt that car smart, I can tell her its a air combobulator for my UAI system and she would be like "oh cool...its pretty" lol girls kill me! Engine wise I dont really drive hard with her in the car so I should be able to hide that. I just need to do the harness and then the kit.
 
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