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My LX is getting a new heart - 3.0L swap

C

Chas

Veteran CEG'er
Joined
May 19, 2008
Messages
875
Location
AZ
Ok, so let me get started. The center of my build is an 04' Sable engine with 6,100 miles on it. I've been accumulating parts for the last 8 months, and the engine will be going in during the second week of May with BAD SVT's help, and whoever wants to come down from PHX for free beer and food :crazy:

1998 E0 LX w/MTX

 The basic build will be:
-engine-
04' block/lower
SVT UIM
NPG lower intake manifold adapter - delete IMRC and no porting for me to do
02-04 Escape fuel rail - for NPG adpater/SVT UIM clearance
NPG fuel rail mod
65mm optimized TB w/SVT throttle cable
Escape oil pan
Bracket-less oil pickup
DMD
EGR delete
Ford racing plug wires
Autolite double platinum plugs
NPG tune w/Xcal3
Pole RR's in 94a

-exhaust-
Coated MSDS headers
Sho-Shop y-pipe/cat
True Borla SS exhaust

-tranny-
Upgraded 1998.5 E1 MTX-75 w/Torsen & shift forks
OEM SVT clutch
Short shifter generic knock off of B&M - already installed

Stuff I know:
1. Flip key position on pulse wheel

2. Cut off tabs from block for alternator

3. Use 2.5L timing cover

4. Xcal tune needed for 24lb injectors, EGR delete, IMRC removal

Random questions:
1. I know I can't use the 3L dipstick and tube with the escape pan, but can I use my stock 2.5L ones?
-Use 2.5L w/ Escape pan

2. Does anyone have pics of their pilot bearing/transmission input bushing removal?
-We'll just cut it off

3. Are there any oil/water passages I need to block of with this setup?
-No

4. What 24lb fuel injectors should I use for correct spray pattern - wiring harness is a E0 and I'm ok with using adapter plugs, unless that option is unreliable/won't fit?
-NPG will be supplying 24lb oval-port spray pattern injectors w/ E0 connectors

5. Educate me on which knock sensor to use (2.5l or 3.0l) and how to modify/include it?
-I'll use the 3L and splice it in if my harness has the option

6. Where is the hole/port I should use on the block for the supply line of my Autometer oil pressure gauge?
-Above AC compressor (thanks Blu & BAD)

7. Advantages of SVT vs 3L cams with this setup? (If there isn't much gain I'm inclined to keep 3L cams)
-keeping 3L

8. Options and costs of shift tower improvements - keyed...etc?
-keeping stock E0 setup

9. Advantages and costs of using 01/02 Cougar alternator?
-Keeping stock Contour one

10. Diagram/pics of modified E1 passenger side motor mount - stock E0 too large?
-Purchasing E1 or 01 cougar mount - which ever one is cheaper :eek:

11. Any issues with 1998.5 E1 speedo sending unit on new tranny with my E0 speedo cluster?
-Should work for any 98-00

12. My shifter has front to rear slop (approx 1" of play when in neutral), and sometimes pops out of second gear when shifting - what are the right shifter bushing ends I need to restore this? (I found F7RZ-7412-AA for the white end, and[FONT=Times New Roman, serif] XS8Z-7412-GA [/FONT]for the black end)

13. Can I use my 2.5L valve covers on the 3L heads & 3L cams - any clearance issues? (I want to keep stock PCV and not have to buy the spacer for the UIM)
-2.5L valve covers clear stock 3L heads

14. I want to use an upgraded hose for my oil pressure gauge, either the solid copper tube or new SS braided hose. How long is your tube/hose - 6ft?
-I'll use the 10ft nylon hose that comes with the gauge to measure the length, then probably go with copper, as SS will be over $75

I'll post up pics as soon as I can, and advance thank you's for everyone's help with this project!
 
Last edited:
bhiggs89 said:
I thought that if you used the Escape fuel rail that you wouldn't need the NPG fuel rail mod?
Click to expand...

I have to use the escape rail for clearance issues due to the special NPG adapter, but I was still under the impression I had to use a fuel rail adapter due to my E0 return style fuel system?
 
Chas said:
I have to use the escape rail for clearance issues due to the special NPG adapter, but I was still under the impression I had to use a fuel rail adapter due to my E0 return style fuel system?
Click to expand...

Ohhh, I didn't even think about the return part..never mind then, I believe you are correct.
 
5. Remove or cut pilot bushing ;)


Looks like you are headed in the right direction.


-No oil or water passages that you need to worry about with your setup.
-Knock sensor might or might not be on your car's wire harness. If it is, then just use your choice of knock sensors. If you use the 3L one, you will need to cut the harness and solder/shrink the connection.
-Tap oil pressure above the AC compressor(see rubber hose/brass fitting). Do not use a rubber line though, mine leaked.:
3Lbuild108.jpg

-Leave the 3L cams in it - the less you mess with, the easier your build will be.
-E0 VS E1 speedo sending units are the same. (from what I remember)
-Use this thread for pics and info on cutting the passenger mount: http://www.newcougar.org/forums/3-0l-duratec-performance/126327-3l-port-matching.html
 
Thanks Blu!
What size bolts do I need to get for mounting the engine to the engine stand?
 
If you're using the stock '04 valve covers, then you'll need 1/2" spacers below your SVT UIM. Without them, the UIM won't clear the valve covers.

20100306_002.jpg
 
wantsansvt said:
if you are tuning it why dont you just go full 3L instead of using the SVT part?
Click to expand...

I know the 3L UIM has more volume, but I really like the stock look of the 2.5L UIM, and I've already bought the UIM, TB bracket, 65mm TB, TB cable, etc.
Plus I'm on a tight schedule with the build, and don't want to get stuck when adapting the hoses for a full 3L. I feel more confident with the junk yards having 2.5L spare parts.
 
Chas said:
I know the 3L UIM has more volume, but I really like the stock look of the 2.5L UIM, and I've already bought the UIM, TB bracket, 65mm TB, TB cable, etc.
Plus I'm on a tight schedule with the build, and don't want to get stuck when adapting the hoses for a full 3L. I feel more confident with the junk yards having 2.5L spare parts.
Click to expand...

thats cool i just thought i would ask since you were getting rid of the imrc and stuff. good luck with the build
 
Chas said:
1. I know I can't use the 3L dipstick and tube with the escape pan, but can I use my stock 2.5L ones?

-I'm not 100percent positive chas. But i believe its the 2.5 dipstick & pickup tube that will be used.

2. Does anyone have pics of their pilot bearing/transmission input bushing removal?

-Dont sweat it. I'll take care of that. I always just cut it off.

3. Are there any oil/water passages I need to block of with this setup?

-No

4. What 24lb fuel injectors should I use for correct spray pattern - wiring harness is a E0 and I'm ok with using adapter plugs, unless that option is unreliable/won't fit?

-Joey will provide the right injectors. Ur harness will work fine.

5. Educate me on which knock sensor to use (2.5l or 3.0l) and how to modify/include it?

-We'll use whichever one u want. Personally, i try to keep whatever i can as stock as possible. Like blu said, i'll simply cut & slice.

6. Where is the hole/port I should use on the block for the supply line of my Autometer oil pressure gauge?

-Mine's right above the compressor as well.

7. Advantages of SVT vs 3L cams with this setup? (If there isn't much gain I'm inclined to keep 3L cams)

-Still debatable, but u might as well go with the 3l's

8. Options and costs of shift tower improvements - keyed...etc?

-Hit or miss. Based on my experience, Ur stock one will be fine

9. Advantages and costs of using 01/02 Cougar alternator?

-I've no idea. Again, i'm more inclined to keep things stock. But thats just me...

10. Diagram/pics of modified E1 passenger side motor mount - stock E0 too large?

-I'll take care of this as well. The E0 mount bolts like i told u, are too large to fit into the 3L heads. An E1(98.5 n up) mount is needed

11. Any issues with 1998.5 E1 speedo sending unit on new tranny with my E0 speedo cluster?

-I wouldnt think so. Someone pls clarify.

12. My shifter has front to rear slop (approx 1" of play when in neutral), and sometimes pops out of second gear when shifting - what are the right shifter bushing ends I need to restore this? (I found F7RZ-7412-AA for the white end, and[FONT=Times New Roman, serif] XS8Z-7412-GA [/FONT]for the black end)

-I've no idea what the part numbers r for those bushings, but i'll know them once i see them. The E0s & some E1s had the rectangular looking bushings. the mid99s n up all used the circular ones. U've got the easier/better ones.
Click to expand...

I posted the answers right below ur questions
 
Updated first post with answered questions and highlighted outstanding questions :cool:
 
Chas said:
1. I know I can't use the 3L dipstick and tube with the escape pan, but can I use my stock 2.5L ones?
Did a bit of searching. Yes, the 2.5 pickup tube & dipstick is what will be used.

12. My shifter has front to rear slop (approx 1" of play when in neutral), and sometimes pops out of second gear when shifting - what are the right shifter bushing ends I need to restore this? (I found F7RZ-7412-AA for the white end, and[FONT=Times New Roman, serif] XS8Z-7412-GA [/FONT]for the black end)

Simply call a ford dealership and give them those part numbers and see which shifter ends they come up as. Its impossible to mix up the two types. One is rectangular while the other looks much like a spoon. U've got an E0, so the one u'll need will be the rectangular one. If all else fails, call bill jenkins in vegas. He's the 'know it all' on contour parts.

14. I want to use an upgraded hose for my oil pressure gauge, either the solid copper tube or new SS braided hose. How long is your tube/hose - 6ft?

I've got a copper hose. I'd get sumthn longer than 6ft just in case...
Click to expand...

Answers are right below the questions
 
Hmm.... if you're getting one of Joey's new LIM adapters, he might be able to not cut the plastic LIM as short. My understanding is that he takes your LIM, mills the top off, then attaches an adapter plate on it... so he might be able to leave it 1/2" taller. I have his older steel design adapter, which did require spacers.
 
morbid said:
Hmm.... if you're getting one of Joey's new LIM adapters, he might be able to not cut the plastic LIM as short. My understanding is that he takes your LIM, mills the top off, then attaches an adapter plate on it... so he might be able to leave it 1/2" taller. I have his older steel design adapter, which did require spacers.
Click to expand...

He said he could, but no need for my set up, as my valve covers will be 2.5L

All parts ordered and paid!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (except I still need a E1 upper motor mount - posting WTB in classifieds)
 
I paid for a motor mount today so I have all the parts I can think of, except for the shifter cable bushings.

Can anyone give me a diagram/pic of which holes I should use to mount the engine to the engine stand, and what size bolts to use. I know the threaded ones are M10x1.5, but there are some that are not threaded, should I use those instead?
 
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