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01 3L With SVT Cams/ My build

G

greasemonkey1489

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
Apr 14, 2008
Messages
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Location
Bloomington/Normal, IL
Yes, I know SVT cams can be used in the 3l and has been done (many times...)...

I would like to know the more technical stuff though and I've searched but didnt find "instructions"

-How should this be done properly? By this I mean, is it just plug and play? Use the 3L cam caps, followers, ect or the 2.5 cyl head hardware? Should I use plastiguage to make sure the tolerances won't be too tight? I have 116k mile cams and I'm looking to throw them into an 80k mile 01 3L.

-Will the timing chain guides/tensioners bolt up to the 3.0 from the 2.5? (I might replace these though, what engine should I order them for?)
 
The way i did it...

3L heads, caps, and hardware. Use the plastigauge to ensure fitment is within spec. Use assembly lube and TQ bolts to spec.

2.5L chains and crank sproket will have to be used as 3L timing stuff has different sized teeth (ie different chain size).

Either set of guides and tensioners will work. I reused my 2.5 stuff as it had very little wear.

Summary:

Stuff from 2.5L: Cams, chain, crank sprocket.

Stuff from 3L: Everything else.

Optional: Guides and tensioners from either motor.


I think some people like using the 2.5L followers, as they may believe they are better matched to the cams they have been worn with. I don't know if there is any strong evidence that this is better than using the 3L followers.
 
Replace all that ish, i think it's so dumb when people use their 100k+ mileage parts when the engine is apart.
 
Beans said:
Replace all that ish, i think it's so dumb when people use their 100k+ mileage parts when the engine is apart.
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tensioners would be a good idea no matter what considering what a pain it would be to do later I agree with da beans on this one. Replace it all with a new timing set. save yourself in the long run.
 
Timing set is $450. I think I'll take my chances on a $200 motor :rolleyes:.

Now with what I have, I will end up with
-Complete SVT block (pistons, pan, crank, timing cover)
-SVT heads, no cams and valve covers.

How much could I recoup if I tried to sell it? 116, no leaks or knocks, very strong. Should I even bother buying the covers etc? If I dont buy covers I'll be left with:
-SVT block with heads attached (Pistons/crank)
And save $100 by not buying oil cooler, valve covers, oil pan.

What is a block+heads worth?
 
a self adjusting timing chain setup, especially the SVT stuff with the beefier chain, doesnt wear much guys. if you have taken care of the engine, and its never seen a low oil condition, your good to go.

you'll know if something is bad. rule #1 on ANYTHING with a chain. once the chain and sprockets are used, you can't mix and match! so use the chains and all the gear. don't get anything mixed up. this stuff is important.
 
Also you might notice when you time the engine the timing flags on the back on some SVT cams that should line up are wrong, they don't line up even though the engine is timed correctly, I ran into this when I built my engine. Just count the chain links from the notches in the sprocket to the notches in the cams like a manual says and it should be good.
 
Thanks for the advice

New question:

If i have access to a 99-00 split port UIM, what is the advantage over the SVT UIM? I am already doing a port-matched so if it bolts up, why not?
 
Surprise! :cool:
01 3.0, 80k $200 Very clean inside and out.

edit: Oil looked a bit alarming.. will update next weekend..

3Liter.jpg
 
Question: Just out of curiosity, has anyone built a 3L block with high compression pistons like the SVT blocks to stay N/A but still retain the engineering of the stock cSVT engine?
 
greasemonkey1489 said:
Question: Just out of curiosity, has anyone built a 3L block with high compression pistons like the SVT blocks to stay N/A but still retain the engineering of the stock cSVT engine?
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Hey greasemonkey 1489; never seen anyone do this... but here's something you might want to bring up with anyone knowledgable you talk to .... Terry Haines was discussing in the old forums about rod bearing faliure/ spun bearings. He said that this malfunction was not caused by oil pressure loss but by the higher compression associated with SVT engines. He said they did extensive testing of this problem and was sure of what he was saying. You may or someone may be able to dig up that stuff... there is plenty of good information in the archives. You may also ask some of the NECO guys too .. i read all that stuff when i was active on NECO for several years before reading more over here .. GL
nice motor btw .. i'm looking at it with envy ...G.
 
gorman said:
Hey greasemonkey 1489; never seen anyone do this... but something you might want to bring up with anyone knowledgable you talk to .... Terry Haines was discussing in the old forums about rod bearing faliure/ spun bearings. He said that this malfunction was not caused by oil pressure loss but by the higher compression associated with SVT engines. He said they did extensive testing of this problem and was sure of what he was saying. You may or someone may be able to dig up that stuff... there is plenty of good information in the archives. You may also ask some of the NECO guys too .. i read all that stuff when i was active on NECO for several years before reading more over here .. GL ...G.
Click to expand...

Wow! That was one thing I thought of when I heard about SVT engines failing. I would assume running lower octane fuel for an extended time would maybe help cause this. I will definitely look into it.

I did find though that the 3.0 blocks had 10.0:1 comp ratio and forged pistons are just 9.5:1 (for a cool $1300). So I'll stick with the 3.0 lower end. I love the idea of a Hybrid though, and I brought it up a while back but I dont know if I want to risk having it last a a few thousand miles and blow up
 
greasemonkey1489 said:
Wow! That was one thing I thought of when I heard about SVT engines failing. I would assume running lower octane fuel for an extended time would maybe help cause this. I will definitely look into it.
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I have noticed you guys over there have many more rod failiures with the SVT than i have heard of with the ST200. I've often thought it must be something to do with the oil or fuel you guys have. I run moly oil additive for peace of mind. Anyway worth looking into ..G.
 
gorman said:
I have noticed you guys over there have many more rod failiures with the SVT than i have heard of with the ST200. I've often thought it must be something to do with the oil or fuel you guys have. I run moly oil additive for peace of mind. Anyway worth looking into ..G.
Click to expand...

Definitely will look into that additive, esp, if I go hybrid.

I forgot you were on that side of world! But yeah, it may be the fuel grades over here (or careless drivers)
 
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