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Zetec exhaust cam alignment.

E

Eric2.0

CEG'er
Joined
Nov 17, 2009
Messages
117
Location
NY
Hello, I'm new here and in the process of installing the new timing belt(after a breakage)
I hope for some clarification on my current problem.


I have a 1999 Mercury Mystique with the 2.0 Zetec 4cl and a broken timing belt. I have the crank aligned at TDC as well as the twin cams with the special cam tool, belt ready to slip on. Question is, the front(exhaust cam) has some sort of hydraulic mechanism on the sprocket and the sprocket turns about an inch and a half before the cam starts to turn. I can turn the sprocket enough to get the cam tool to slide into the cam slots, but when I release the sprocket with my hand, it puts stress on the cam against the cam tool. Is this normal?.

I would appreciate any help and I will try my best to explain better if you want me too.

Nice website and thank you

(Eric)
 
Yes, normal. Get cam in place with tool and run sprocket back away from front of car to internal stop and limit. Sprocket either goes CCW or cam goes CW to limit (same thing) as viewing the sprocket from passenger side of car. Camtool must fit at that time. If you have bled down that much oil from the VCT, you will probably hear a rapid repetitive loud snapping noise upon engine startup. That is the VCT snapping until it fills with oil, should quit in a few seconds. Essentially the same thing you're experiencing turning by hand, just with motor running.
 
Thank you, amc49.

When I turn the sprocket on the VCT I can hear the oil in there swishing, no snapping(I never took it apart) I don't see why anyone actually loosens the VCT sprocket to put on a new timing belt, when all you need to really do is loosen the simpler intake sprocket to get the top of the belt tighter. Unless you replaced the exhaust cam or rebuilt the engine or something.

I really didn't want to take the VCT apart, because I have no idea what is going on with it..no idea how it works and it's obviously at the factory settings with the cam so With you saying my situation is normal, then I'll just leave that sprocket alone..

Thanks again..this really helps.
 
just follow the damn procedure

just follow the damn procedure

IF you get the ford tsb on setting the cam timing PROPERLY and follow it, you will have no problems, This WILL require the cam alignment tool and the crank pin AND in spite of other's opinions it WILL require you to loosen BOTH cams. Really not a big deal. Not only provides proper cam timing but proper belt tension as well. Very critical as a tight belt is prone to walk off of the gears and shred itself in SHORT order.

The tools can be as cheap as $20, the tsb free.
 
The snapping noise only happens while running. The cam loads the spring and it releases after going over tappet. Spring back, release forward, etc., once oil fills the VCT it locks the cam down to quit all that.
 
Ok I called Mercury themselves and they sent me this PDF on how to do the job the right way(factory).

It says.. the engine management system will only make up for 2 degrees of mis-alignment of the VCT camshaft, so a high degree of accuracy is required for VCT alignment.

It clearly states that BOTH cam sprockets need to be loosened and they are NOT tightened back up until the belt tension is set. You loosen the sprockets, align everything, slip on the new belt, install the tensioner, then tighten up the sprockets..AFTER the belt is on and under tension.

Now I have to get to work lol..
 
Ok I'm back and I am pissed a little bit lol... Tried to loosen the intake sprocket and slapped myself in the head with my wrench. Cut my eye lid and it gushed. Cleaned it up and now sporting a nice band-aid that has Snoopy on it(all I had) lol

I took the plug off the VCT sprocket hub and inside there is yet another special fastener I have no tool for. It's like a reverse star wrench. Wher edo I get that now?...

I swear if I had a ton of money I would just take this car to the shop.... it's pissing me off now lol.
 
air impact is the way to go.

air impact is the way to go.

Use an impact wrench to loosen and tighten cam bolts (yeah the anal retentives will whine but normal folks just use the impact). The exhaust cam bolt appears to be funky, but the correct sized socket will work just fine. Be certain that you hold the cams by the hex and not the alignment tool.

the impact will work very well on the crankshaft bolt as well.

Best of luck
 
Yeah, right. This is exactly what I'm talking about. The 2 degree statement is a misprint in the book, it actually states that the VCT operates across a total of 2 degrees, I have mine copied from the manual. The actual number should be 22 degrees to mechanical limit, moving 2 degrees only does nothing at all, VCT has to move way more than that to have the proper effect of intake dilution. Belt getting loose through it's life will vary far more than that 2 degrees. LOL. Where's the info showing that cam should be rotated forward against internal stop at the time the timing check occurrs?? Lost somewhere else in the manual, nowhere near where it is most useful, i.e. the belt timing section. I remember chasing the info down in the Ford manual at library and thinking how stupid it was not in right place.

My last word on the subject. Only an idiot thinks you must loosen a sprocket to get it right back to where it was to begin with, i.e. perfect running condition. If one cannot understand that simply turning the engine several times 'neutrals' the cams, that one has no business working on the car. If the camtool fits there is no need to loosen, turning the motor will tension everything as much as it ever will, in fact, it is DESIREABLE to do it that way as the loosening of sprockets does nothing to put all the slack at the left side where tensioner can truly take 100% of it up. The tensioner on these is so light that simply loosening both sprockets can introduce enough belt drag back to artificially be too loose at top and right side belt runs so that will affect the tension on the left side. The last thing done before tensioner final checked and locked down should be a roll in direction of rotation that slowly stops and has the looseness trapped at the left so tensioner can accurately eat it up to the proper tension. That leaves it exact same way as engine will pull on it. Normal engine condition running will have belt tension slightly higher on top and right hand runs from pull and cam drag and remainder ends up at tensioner. In simpler words running condition is NOT even all the way around the belt. Making the entire manual process even more ridiculous. Think I'm kidding? Look at a well worn in belt before you loosen tensioner, there is perceptable SLACK on the left hand side, yet the engine performs perfectly.

Some more. Manual does not state how far to loosen sprockets, if loosened enough tensioning process alone can pull sprocket slightly off pilot out of true plane with belt center, thus affecting the quality of the job again. Brilliant.

I do not care what that manual says..............................
 
I have no idea who is right or wrong or what procedure is right or wrong. Seems to me someone would know exactly what needs to be done here, loosen them or not!.
All I know is that I have the actual Mercury instructions and it says loosen both sprockets and the guy(Mercury expert) said follow them step by step and you'll have no problems. Believe me, I don't want to loosen those sprockets, I already banged my head trying to do that lol.

One thing that doesn't make sense is if you are just switching out a belt(NOT broken) I don't think the sprockets need to be loose. But broken ones do?..

unfreakin real and I am pulling my hair out lol.
 
Just who to believe? The engineers at ford or amc?

Just who to believe? The engineers at ford or amc?

You don't suppose that Ford Mercury came out with a procedure and tools to install a cam belt just because the engineers had nothing better to do? Just get over your concerns about loosening the cams and do it.

If you have access to an impact gun and don't have an issue using one, just do it. In fact my experience is that the exhaust cam is easier to loosen than the intake.
 
Its your car, do as you want to. If you don't feel you need to loosen them then don't. I can tell you this, if you don't get the timing right, you will get a engine light with the 1381 code. With the VCT the timing needs to be exact. I guess I must be one of the idiots he was talking about. I loosened mine like the directions said. Not that big of deal to loosen them. Its your choice, you can listen to the people that built the car or the so called expert printing press mechanic, who thinks he knows more than the manufacture.
 
I went ahead and loosened all the sprockets. That is what the Mercury guide said to do so that is what I will do. No offense to those who don't loosen the sprockets, but I feel more comfortable doing it the way the guide says. Even the Haynes manual is kinds "iffy" on the subject.

I'm just taking my time with each step and make sure 100% I know what is going on before I do it. Just got back from sears with a brand new Torque wrench lol... This project is NOW starting to get fun.... I am settled on the idea of loosening the sprockets.
 
I finally solved this mystery.

I got the belt on after loosening both sprockets, pulled the belt from crank sprocket to exhaust sprocket keeping it tight. The cam sprocket is loose, so it was easy to get the teeth to mesh perfectly with new belt. Finally got the new belt over the tensioner and adjusted the tensioner to the EXACT specs in the mercury guide. THEN I tightened both sprockets holding them gently so I didn't move the crank.

Removed the timing pin and cam alignment bar then spun the whole thing around twice, tried to slide the bar back in, but nope.... Loosened the exhaust cam again, and re-set that cam again so it would allow the bar to slip in. Adjusted the tensioner again and repeated two revolutions. This time I was able to get the cam tool to slide in.. I only had to turn the exhaust cam just a tiny bit.. I mean VERY little to get the tool to slip in.

Did two more revolutions and tool slipped in.... I started to smile.... then re-checked torque on everything ...double checked and then I triple checked.

Tomorrow the covers go back on, engine mount, valve cover and wires.... Then I am starting this thing up.

Ahhhhhh finally.....Ahhhhhhhhh
 
All in all, it is best to loosen BOTH sprockets, hang the belt, adjust with tensioner and then tighten the sprockets AFTER belt adjustment.

I did it that way and seems fine. Hopefully no engine light comes on, but I am just going to expect it so I don't get mad. At least I know what I am doing now....
 
I should take back what I said about idiots, there was no call for that........
 
It now runs like a freakin dream now...

No engine light.

Now I wish I had another to do, because it would be really easy this time lol

*cracks open a beer and then passes out on sofa*....ahhhhhhhhhh
 
We usually don't bother to check

We usually don't bother to check

Rarely does the exhaust cam timing line up after the tool is removed. Just accept that on the next one, you got it right the first time.

What size socket did you use for the exhaust cam bolt?

Did you use an air impact?
 
andreslobo said:
What size socket did you use for the exhaust cam bolt?

Did you use an air impact?
Click to expand...

On that strange bolt on the exhaust cam I used a 16mm. Worked nice and didn't slip at all.

I used a good crescent wrench on the cam hexes, then used a 1'2 drive then held it with both hands and the bolts popped loose. Wasn't hard at all.
I don't have a impact wrench here so I'm thankful my wrenches got it done lol.

Think I'll go out and take the car for a drive.... I'm still amazed I got it running again lol... victory feels nice and the money saved is even better.:laugh: Under 150 for the entire project and most of the cost was a new torque wrench and a few tools I didn't have.
 
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