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Where to cut, what to cut and pics (altenator and crank)

Rent a Slide Hammer and pilot bearing attachment from AutoZone costs liek $100 which is refunded to you when you return it. definately the way to go. thanks for the discussion on the crank pulley, and tabs for the alternator braket. Very Helpful
 
are we trying to say the grease/hydraulic method of getting the bushing out doesn't actually work?

I'd really rather not cut it off, just seems a little janky to me.

if I can get mine off in usable shape I'll ship it to anyone that needs it, you pay shipping of course.
 
are we trying to say the grease/hydraulic method of getting the bushing out doesn't actually work?
Click to expand...

I don't thinks we are saying the grease method won't work. just letting you know another option i.e. the slide hammer which works as well. I personally have never used the grease/hidraulic method. but I have used the slide hammer and know it works well and is pretty quick as long as you can get the jaws to hook on the back of the bushing.
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don't the contours use a pilot bearing for the MTX input shaft? if so wouldn't the bushing need to come out so that the pilot bearing could go back?
 
DONT cut that thing out.

3L_05.jpg


3L_06.jpg
 
69Boss302 said:
Now there are finally some pictures for future reference for anyone looking to remove the crank pulley and damper.

I used two bolts through the flywheel to hold everything still.

P1020619.jpg


Notice that the pulley has been cut off between the pulley and damper.

With the flywheel chocked, I used a 1" wrench with a pipe slid over it for added leverage. With a decent amount of persuasion it finally broke free and spun off to reveal the damper bolt.

P1020618.jpg


P1020620.jpg



P1020621.jpg


Remove that bolt and attach the pulley puller

P1020622.jpg


Back off the pulley and then it's done.

P1020623.jpg
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As I started reading your thread, I was hoping I could make it in time before you got to this point. I just went through this last night. I kept trying to get that damn crank pulley off with my impact gun, finally I started going on and off to crack the rust-seized threads loose, and it spun off in the "ON" or "Clockwise" direction. Weird setup....I guess I just got lucky and didn't wreck anything.

Ummm, have you taken the oil pan off yet? Depending what you got that 3L from, you might have to swap the oil pan and oil pick up tube from the Contour engine. You might get into another surprise......
3L_00.jpg
 
haha, the bushing comes out that easy? awesome

and the taurus pan fits the 'tour dude. you can drill the two holes pretty easy, I also hear some guys don't even bother with them.
 
KAOS_2.5M said:
haha, the bushing comes out that easy? awesome

and the taurus pan fits the 'tour dude. you can drill the two holes pretty easy, I also hear some guys don't even bother with them.
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Hahhaa, well you and I are just learning a bunch from each other here aren't we. Thanks for the info, and yeah...that stupid little piece comes right out with an air hammer and a little assistance from the vise grips in your other hand.
 
alright, well your hammer/vise grip way wont work for me, niether will the grease way, it's rusted all to hades, I've soaked it in oil, heated it up with a torch, hammerd on it, and tried to pull it out, nothing will work. only other thing I can think of would be to try and grind a slot on the inside of it and collapse it down, but screw that. I'm just going to hack it off.

it's supposed to be flush with that outer lip right? how flat/smooth does it have to be?


in other news, the crank pully and H/B were a breeze. I took off the flex plate and screwed it to a piece of lumber, then bolted it back on with a few bolts. next I turned it till the lumber was wedged against coolent manifold, and then tapped a 5/8 socket on the bolt thing on the pulley. next I poured some ATF (it's what I had) all over the point were the pully meets the HB, then heated it up with propane, then poured more ATF as it cooled. did that three times, and then on to jumping on a big ratchet with a cheater bar. about three good bounces on that and it popped loose. presto!!!

the inner bolt was really easy, nothing like it was on the 2.5, and I was even able to get the HB off with an ordinary three claw gear puller. at some point I need to buy the correct puller though
 
3l_15.jpg


I guess I shoulda taken some shots before I mounted the alt braket....maybe I'll take it back off tonight if anyone suggests that they would like to see the finished product of the shaved block.....
 
eeew, thats dirty

FYI, there are great pictures of all of this over on neco under l perfomance in a thread called 3l porting or something. it's near the top or stickied, cant remember.
 
mine was horrible, I have a tiny hole in my P/side CV boot that slings crap on the engine. I need a new axel installed soon, but for now, I don't car about it. some ultra black, duct tape, and zip ties should keep the grease off my front cover till i have 170 for an axel instalation. I would do it myself, but thats how the hole got there, I had to use a c clamp 'cause I dont have the correct tool. I suppose I could try one of those two pice boots for installing on an installed axel...

definately dont want to ugly this up though:

img6836editednt2.jpg

Shot with Canon PowerShot SD400 at 2008-10-23
 
CraigTRD said:
....

Ummm, have you taken the oil pan off yet? Depending what you got that 3L from, you might have to swap the oil pan and oil pick up tube from the Contour engine. You might get into another surprise......
Click to expand...


This was done a long time ago but... I went with the 2.5 oil pan and a new pickup tube for a 2.5.
 
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