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What's with all the stumbling/bucking/hesitation problems lately?

svo_larry said:
Thanks for the info. I'll try the MAF cleaner and then replace. Also that is a good idea for the fan. I suppose I could check this. I could probably measure the fan sensor. I imagine it shorts to ground when the temp is reached so if I check it now it will probably be shorted.

I could order a MAF from Ford but it would be nice to pick one up at the local autozone and be fixed today. they do have a one year warranty. Are the MAFs from the non-Ford part houses known to have premature failure or do they operate differently than the Ford part?
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When it comes to sophisticated electronic equipement and sensors, I go Ford only. An example that comes to mind is the idle air control (IAC). Folks on here have tried aftermarket examples with less than satisfactory results. I'm a big fan of saving labor, as well as the "once and done" approach.

I'm not saying you couldn't get away with an aftermarket application, but you best be damn sure the metering is identical, or you could run into problems bigger than just hesitation. To wit, some SHO folks at one point were wondering if they could swap the larger MAF from a 3.8L Thunderbird SuperCoupe and use it on a Taurus SHO. The answer, of course, was a big, fat, no. The SC's air/fuel needs are decidedly different, and are not compatible with the SHO. The swap goes a long way toward screwing up the drivability that Ford worked so hard to optimize. I'd use this example as a guide in choosing your part.

FoMoCo -- the way to go. :cool:
 
LauraSVT said:
When it comes to sophisticated electronic equipement and sensors, I go Ford only. An example that comes to mind is the idle air control (IAC). Folks on here have tried aftermarket examples with less than satisfactory results. I'm a big fan of saving labor, as well as the "once and done" approach.

I'm not saying you couldn't get away with an aftermarket application, but you best be damn sure the metering is identical, or you could run into problems bigger than just hesitation. To wit, some SHO folks at one point were wondering if they could swap the larger MAF from a 3.8L Thunderbird SuperCoupe and use it on a Taurus SHO. The answer, of course, was a big, fat, no. The SC's air/fuel needs are decidedly different, and are not compatible with the SHO. The swap goes a long way toward screwing up the drivability that Ford worked so hard to optimize. I'd use this example as a guide in choosing your part.

FoMoCo -- the way to go. :cool:
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I tend to agree and found Ford Electronics to be the only way to go when tuning up a Ford 2.3 turbo application. The aftermarket parts only presented problems.

In my case though I am only looking to get another year out of the SVT I have now and then go with a lower mileage better condition one. Mine has many issues so that is a factor for me.

I'll keep my fingers crossed on this part and hopefully it will work ok. Actually hopefully the MAF cleaner works. I knew that starter fluid was a bad idea. Wasn't thinking clearly that day.
 
i have had bucking problems as well and they seem to come only at a low rpm (around2-3k) but if i pull through the gears with more gas i do not feel it. ive replaced the gear oil less then 1000 miles ago (used ford genuine), replaced the plugs with autolite double plats, installed ford racing wires, replaced the fuel pump with the new redesigned pump (ford orinigal as well), fuel filter, and still have it. im just assuming its one of the "characteristics" of the car and since it doesnt stall or affect aggressive driving i havent persued it any further. i dont know how much help this is considering alot of these symptoms seem to be at higher rpms for you guys, but its my two cents
 
I don't mean to hijack this post but since we are talking about bucking problems .. mine just went into the shop for this. Ford is going to look into the problem Friday morning. Pretty much the same kind of symptoms and the regular mechanic can't find a problem. The only code I have on the cel is the irmc is stuck open (i'm fine with that right now as it just gives me a leaner condition before 3500 rpm) other than that, the car's rpm is fluctuating rapidly at idle AND while driving before it finally decides to die off completey. There is no vacuum issues and my mechanic has narrowed it down to the fuel pump or a mis-calibrated MAF sensor. Now my question is this ... if the fuel pump were to go, wouldn't the pump just shut off the fuel flow all at once or does the engine actually take fuel directly from the tank through the pump or why wouldn't the car just shut down completely? I'm looking at getting the turbo setup eventually and if it is the fuel pump that is going ... Which svt ford focus pump puts out 255lph? Because I might as well get it done now.
 
genesis14 said:
... The only code I have on the cel is the irmc is stuck open (i'm fine with that right now as it just gives me a leaner condition before 3500 rpm) other than that, the car's rpm is fluctuating rapidly at idle AND while driving before it finally decides to die off completey. ...
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IMRC stuck open; you will idle crappily at engine speeds lower than 3500 RPM.
 
#1700project2000 said:
i have had bucking problems as well and they seem to come only at a low rpm (around2-3k) but if i pull through the gears with more gas i do not feel it.....im just assuming its one of the "characteristics" of the car and since it doesnt stall or affect aggressive driving i havent persued it any further....
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Get the Check Engine Light code(s) read and post the exact code(s) here.
 
Didnt see any mention so I will...

Didnt see any mention so I will...

I just tore into the wifes 95 Mystique 2.5L.

That car has had hesitation and stumbling issues as well.

Like all else, moreso when its cooler out. Well, I pulled the throttle body and IAC to clean them and the idle air passages behind the throttlebody were COMPLETELY blocked with gunk!.

The IAC seemed OK...some coloration but no noticable buildup.

I sprayed them down and cleaned everything.

I have not got it back together yet so I dont know if that has fixed either the high idle I am chasing or intermittant hesitation.
 
I thought that you would ever get a code if a sensor fails to put out a signal. I have always wondered if something were to miscalibrate a sensor, but still put out a signal if you would get a cel. because if this is true it would make troubleshooting harder. If someone could straighten this out this would be good?
 
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