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What to go with?

yeah. i really dont want to go about he hassle of changing the cams. at least at first. i would rather have the torque. did you do your 3L by yourself or did you have a shop do it?
 
CRGkart44 said:
yeah. i really dont want to go about he hassle of changing the cams. at least at first. i would rather have the torque. did you do your 3L by yourself or did you have a shop do it?
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His name is Pudmunkie, and he is a 3.0L building god. :laugh:
 
CRGkart44 said:
so you have a built 3.0L? how lond was the install. im debating if i should do it myself of take it to aircougar
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I don't know how long it took took, I bought the car that way from him. For a first time project, I would bring it to aircougar over a weekend and watch and help. From what I have read, for and experienced person it is a weekend/weeklong project. Other people it might be a month or more.
 
ooo... well... my dad and i will be bringing aircougar a motor at some point... i need the funds. i also gotta replace my transmission and clutch before i do the motor. i can get a junk yard trans with less thant 100k for about $150. my neighbor has a lift in his garage for his race car. he said im welcome to it.
 
CRGkart44 said:
what about the older motors? how are the cams in that? i probly wont change the cams but im just wondering about what the best set up would be incase i change them at one point
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'04-'05 cams are better than '01-'03 cams. I have the '01 cams in my full 3.0, and although there's a ton of power by 2500, it peters out around 6000. Some people might not like that, but I think it's perfect. I can eeeeasily pass people on the interstate without downshifting from 5th. In just a couple seconds I can easily get around other cars.
 
yeah, well... i dont plan on going over 6RPM anyways. Thanks for teh info. how do you like the full 3L as opposed to a port-matched(if you have any experience with thouse)
 
CRGkart44 said:
yeah, well... i dont plan on going over 6RPM anyways. Thanks for teh info. how do you like the full 3L as opposed to a port-matched(if you have any experience with thouse)
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Most people are going to get you to go with whatever they chose, so take any advice with a grain of salt. I'll just say that full '04-'05 3.0s can put out 200+whp with a completely stock exhaust system, and that a couple of prominent members here have gone from ported to full and swear they'll never go back.
 
hmm... that may make me reconsider. i was planning on a port matched, but who knows. im thinking i may just buy a SVT with a 3L already in it if i can find it... or just a SVT. my car will need a trans rebuild, clutch, exhaust, body work(fix dents, dime sized surface rust), then paint. im sure there is more, but not sure if its worth putting a 3L in it.
 
PurpleMystique said:
Most people are going to get you to go with whatever they chose, so take any advice with a grain of salt. I'll just say that full '04-'05 3.0s can put out 200+whp with a completely stock exhaust system, and that a couple of prominent members here have gone from ported to full and swear they'll never go back.
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no, most should suggest he builds the engine that he wants to build. that means taking all the options into concideration and pick a way tp build the motor that one wants.
 
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oh, ill pick what i want. but there is no hurt in taking suggestions from people who already have a 3L or no a little more than i do about them
 
Ok, so is there any "Best" engine or way to go??
It seems like its all a matter opinion, and ,well, everyones got one.
I have been looking into witch path to take.
Seeing as I have a pre 98' its seeming pretty tough to put the SVT eec into my car and go with the SVt upper end. This was my original plan.
I don't really want to use the 17# injectors that came on my 96' SE.
I have seen people say that the eec with adjust or "learn" as it goes. I was hoping to be able to wait to get a tune. Seems like if I go straight 3L, I'll need the tune right away.
Oh well, as was pointed out earlier, I can always sell off the SVT intakes, throttle body and cable/bracket(return style fuel rail) to help pay for the tune.
Seeing as I'm realatively new here, I'm not able to use the classified for a while. Anyone near MI need as set up? I've also got the heads and cams (SVT) which I was going to try and sell anyway.
Brian.............................
 
m1a rocks said:
Ok, so is there any "Best" engine or way to go??
It seems like its all a matter opinion, and ,well, everyones got one.
I have been looking into witch path to take.
Seeing as I have a pre 98' its seeming pretty tough to put the SVT eec into my car and go with the SVt upper end. This was my original plan.
I don't really want to use the 17# injectors that came on my 96' SE.
I have seen people say that the eec with adjust or "learn" as it goes. I was hoping to be able to wait to get a tune. Seems like if I go straight 3L, I'll need the tune right away.
Oh well, as was pointed out earlier, I can always sell off the SVT intakes, throttle body and cable/bracket(return style fuel rail) to help pay for the tune.
Seeing as I'm realatively new here, I'm not able to use the classified for a while. Anyone near MI need as set up? I've also got the heads and cams (SVT) which I was going to try and sell anyway.
Brian.............................
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I ran my full 3.0 without a tune for about a month. It ran fine, I got about ~26-28mpg (same as I do now), but it would bog just a tiny bit down low due to the absence of the IMRC. But I did have the SVT ECU and 19# injectors. If you really don't want to get a tune right away, you can run it with the SE ECU and 17# injectors. It won't be ideal, but it will run. Later on when you get a tune, you can swap in the 24# injectors so that you have enough capacity to support your horsepower and you'll have the correct spray pattern as well, but you don't want to run 24# injectors untuned.

From what I understand, your engine computer tells the injectors to pulse for x amount of time to deliver the amount of fuel that it wants them to. If you switch out 17# injectors for 24# injectors, the computer will still tell the injectors to pulse for the same "x" amount of time, except that the injectors will be pumping in 25-30% MORE fuel in that same amount of time. If that happens, you run the risk of fuel washing the oil off of your cylinder walls and having the walls messed up.
 
Sounds like an interesting idea. I did order a bunch of Ford repair manuals off ebay the other day. These are the dealer ones. I got about 5 pubs. electric wiring, schematics and auto repair. these were dealer books. 96' and 98'. I am going to do my damdest to figure out if its possible to do the eec. If I was to try, I'd get it going first with the SE eec and the 17# injectors, then try to swap things. Perhaps, perhaps not???? I'll cross that bridge when I get there.
Has anyone used a throttle cable from a Taurus to use on the 3L engine?
I got one last week. It seems like a good fit and I don't have to mess with the bracket (TB).
I'm getting the 3.0 on the engine stand today. Its time to get this thing in gear. I've had the thing for about 4 weeks now. I was busy tearing down the SVT.
I am going to try to push out the bushing in the crank. Yea, I know I can just cut it. I made a device at work last night. We'll see how it works.
If anyone local is looking for a dark blue interior, I have a complete one to get rid of.......Sorry to put that junk(FS) in here but what the heck. Seems the only way to post it right now.......:laugh:
 
Do a lot of searching regarding "PATS." It will probably be your biggest hurdle with regards to swapping in the SVT ECU.

Also - I'm very interested in a couple MNB interior pieces. I'll PM you.
 
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