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veterans...a rookie needs some help please

TennTechMan said:
I suggest drilling out the old threads, and re-tap for a larger bolt. You should probably use a M10x1.5 tap and bolt. Use a 11/32" drill bit to drill out the stripped threads before using the M10 tap.
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that would probably cost just as much as the helicoil:shrug:. tho my basement is practically a warehouse of tools. so i'm quite sure i MIGHT have a drill and tap that size already. but you know when you search for one specific thing when you really need it. That it's never there:nonono:. Also any idea where i might get a bolt that size that's already the same or near length
 
It might cost similar, but when you're done with a drill bit and tap, you still have a drill bit and tap to use later. The only cost you're really out is the price of a bolt. The helicoil is one-time use since it stays in the car.

The bolt can probably be purchased at any hardware store. If not, look up the closest fastenal store. Or purchase from here: www.mcmaster.com. But be prepared to buy 100 of them.

If you really want the cheapest fix, go buy a tube of black gasket sealer. Clean the surface where it's leaking as best you can, and just smear the sealer all over it. Really try to cram it into the seam. I don't suggest this method, but it might work temporarily.
 
TennTechMan said:
If you really want the cheapest fix, go buy a tube of black gasket sealer. Clean the surface where it's leaking as best you can, and just smear the sealer all over it. Really try to cram it into the seam. I don't suggest this method, but it might work temporarily.
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lol your a riot about that. you know we don't treat our cars like that. haha nice way to see if i'm worthy of having a svt tho. Naw but really what i did is just go to the JY and got another cover and did it the long way and took everything back out:crazy:. FOund out that my crazy self left one of the timing chain cover gaskets out:shocked:. thats what happens when your use to warm weather in Ga but haft to work in the cold
 
ok so put the engine back in but now it's not starting. i get fuel, i believe i get spark and of course air. Now when i took the engine back apart i took the pulse wheel off to clean some rtv that fell behind it. I dont recall twisting my arm or hand or anything. i simply took it off. stayed in that position, wiped with my other hand and then put it back on. The engine acts like it wants to start but simply is not catching. The almighty OB1 advised that either i take a timing light to it or take the crankshaft sensor out and peep thru that hole to check.....which i will do. But is there anything else you guys might think it is?
 
MAN WHAT THE F:mad::mad::mad: this bull:mad::mad::mad::mad: a$$ effing 3l wont start. sorry a$$ effing contour arrrrrrr:nonono: i only have patience to pull this motor one more time.

1st time pulling the motor-

had the 2.5 svt in it with 150k thought it was rod knocking but i dont think it was that because it turned out one of the welds on my front exhaust was broken. So i think it might have been the air escaping that made the noise. already had purchased 3l by then so not really much turning back. Put the 3l in and it started up. but was leaking oil at the timing chain cover

2nd time pulling-

ok so pulled the 3l back out because of the oil leak. thought i didnt have enough rtv sealant. So i put some more rtv on, put it back in. Started it up and had a small oil leak. from the oil pan to tijming chain cover. then i think i had a small gas leak. so i go to pull the gas line but the plastic clip didnt come off but the steel braided line did. So i put the line back on to connect back to the clip and then started the car. But the fuel line caught fire so i got the fire put out in about 30 seconds.

3rd time pulling

so put the fire out pulled the motor again to fix the oil leak. this time i replaced the whole timing chain cover with a different one. cleaned the fire extinguisher stuff examined the wires and tho the lines were scorched i was to lazy and thought that maybe the engine would still start but it didnt. i really think it didnt start because no spark but thought hey it might have been the pulse wheel because i did take it off to clean some rtv from behind it

4th time pulling- so pulled the engine to check the pulse wheel and yes it was on correctly and i even took the time to replace what wires were scorched with different wire but car still will not start. i still dont think i'm getting spark. I even replaced the coil pack with a different one.
 
get your multi-meter out, its pretty easy to find out if you're getting spark... or you can pull a plug wire and point it at the UIM to see if you get a lil zap but that's a bit more old school and kind of dumb.
 
Sorry about your luck bro. Check your crank sensor connection. This happened to me when the retainer clip broke off the connecter & it backed out just enough to prevent a connection. The PCM won't give it spark if it's not getting a good signal from the crank sensor.
 
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