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VCT trouble

M

mgray84

New CEG'er
Joined
Jul 5, 2010
Messages
28
Location
Conway, AR
I just obtained a 1998 Contour 2.0l. I was told the VCT solenoid was bad. When I start the car, it will sputter and die unless I keep it throttled up to about 1500rpm. I was thinking about elinimating the vct to fix it. I thought I can possibly change the exhaust cam gear to the same type gear the other cam has. I was wondering if I removed the vct if oil would shoot out of the feed hole for the vct. I have the ability to buy a 1997 head assembly with both cams for $25. Can I just swap my head for that one and the engine work properly? I know I will have a ses light; eventually I could swap the pcm with one from a 97 car. I have read on here that the non-vct engines are better anyway. I did run the car with the vct plugged and unplugged with no noticeable difference. The timing belt is bad but I did not see any missing teeth. One more question- are rear drum or disc brakes better? I thought about converting to disc.
 
i've always heard that the VCT solenoid doesn't go bad, but i suppose it could happen. it sounds more like the timing is off and needs to be set properly.
 
I would have the timing belt fixed first, It sounds like the same problem I had before the belt shredded. If that doesnt work pm me, I have a vct zetec that I dont need.

As for the drum or disc, I'd do the conversion. Disks seem to be a lot easier to change.
 
If you remove VCT you will have to install an EGR system, no inspection possible without it unless you are in one of the forgiving states....................

more likely something else wrong. Pulling codes may tell you.
 
My code reader only showed p1380 because the vct was unplugged. The other two codes showed p0000. I will change the timing belt and see if that fixes my problem before doing anything more advanced. The belt looks bad but it didn't look like the timing would be off from it. The previous owner said he put off changing the oil for a while when it started idling badly so he and I both figured the vct was contaminated. The car has 122k miles, are there any other things I should look into replacing? How picky are these engines with timing? I am more of a small block chevy guy when it comes to troubleshooting but I need a car that is lighter on gas. My trucks get about 22mpg and 8-10mpg. I'm getting somewhat excited about finding ways to make this little car the best I can (without tons of money) so any suggestions would be great.
 
i've gone well over 6k between oil changes and haven't had any issues with anything let alone my VCT module. and they are very picky when it comes to the timing. one tooth off can be the difference between night and day. i recently had to replace the head and timing kit on mine and along with it i cleaned my IAC valve and replaced my PCV. i am now getting a combined average of 26mpg with the air running. this is up from about 18mpg without. also just looking at the belt won't tell you much, (obviously if it looks tattered then it needs replaced) the belt that came on mine when i bought it looked brand new, but when i pulled it off it was stretched almost a 1/2 inch and the idler pulleys also looked new but had a good deal of play in them, which makes me wonder why my belt never walked of the gears. one more thing IIRC the gates timing kit was like 75 bucks plus shipping from rockauto.
 
How did you get the timing belt off? It looks like the engine mount bracket is in the way of the belt coming off but I can't figure out how the bracket comes off. I took three bolts out of it but something is still holding it. Getting the water pump pulley bolts out is giving me a hell of a time too. I can't figure out how to hold the pulley still while I break the bolts loose. I spent 10 hrs in the sun working on the car today and haven't really gotten anywhere.
 
I finally got back with it today and finished changing the timing belt, tensioner, idlers and water pump. After putting it all back together and starting it, the car runs no different than it did before the timing belt change. It still chugs a lot at idle. It will stay running now but barely. Any other suggestions on what to check? I can hear some kind of ticking coming from the engine on the inside center near the intake manifold. I have no idea what is causing it. I'm more interested in getting the idle fixed right now though.
 
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