Turbo drain line

[TUFTOUR]

I have the NPG kit on a 2.5...the oil drain line is tapped into the pan. The hose has begun to fail where it was making contact with the header despite having a thermal sleeve around it...what are some options you guys are using? Any links would be helpful. The current setup is has a copper drain line welded to the flange at the turbo...from there, it goes to a blue hose down to the tap at the pan. I read that hoses with a kevlar braid seem to withstand the most heat, but want to make sure this doesn't happen again. I already have a call and email out to Joey, but wanted to hear from other people what they've done to resolve the same problem.

 

[BrApple]

I have run across the same thing. I was planning on upgrading to -10am line from the turbo to the block. Instead of going behind the header I was going to loop out and around it so it's as far away as possible.

 

[TUFTOUR]

I talked to Joey this evening...he's putting together a kit that will come with a new flange, braided SS line and AN swivel fittings that will screw into where I tapped the oil pan. This is what comes with all the new turbo kits he's selling now.

 

[morbid]

I'm running a -10 ss braided line, and it is really tight... especially since it's going to the block and not the pan. I went -10 because there's not much angle to the start/end of the drain line, and I wanted to make sure it flowed well. It originally had a 1/2 rubber hose going to the pan, but oil was bleeding out from the clamped end on the oil pan side. The ss braided fitting doesn't bleed... then again it is above the oil now too.

 

[marianiman]

can you possibly take a few pics of the block tap and the pan tap with drain routing?? that would make my day, and how much of a pita was it to tap the pan?

 

[gmorrell]

If you know the length and what hose ends you need, have these folks make you a custom -10 Teflon hose with stainless braid.
http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchan...=CUSTOM-OIL-DRAIN-LINE&Category_Code=ATP-OIL1

The Teflon lined hoses won't live in direct contact with a header, but they'll last considerably longer than other elastomers or rubber hose, even those with stainless braid coverings. The Teflon hoses are pretty stiff, so you do have to get the routing and length right.

You can get adapters to convert any turbo oil drain pattern to a -10 male fitting, and you can also get -10 male weld fittings to weld to the oil pan. I wouldn't recommend drilling and tapping a cast Aluminum oil pan unless you have a 1/4" of material to work with, if you don't want to weld, better to use a bulkhead feed-thru fitting with an O-ring and a nut.

 

[TUFTOUR]

can you possibly take a few pics of the block tap and the pan tap with drain routing?? that would make my day, and how much of a pita was it to tap the pan?

This pic was taken during the build...

 

[marianiman]

This pic was taken during the build...

thanks, did you try heat wrapping the header?you could at least try on that specific runner to see if it makes a difference

 

[TUFTOUR]

I just got the updated oil drain kit from NPG and looks like it should solve the problem...versus retapping the pan to 1/2 NPT, I'm going to use a -10AN to 3/8 NPT reducer. The kit comes with all -10AN swivel fittings, 1/2" stainless braided line, and new drain flange at the turbo...I'll post pics when I'm done.

 

[crewchiefpro]

You can make a drain line from copper tubing and never worry about it. You can solder sections easily to make it snake around the exhaust. Just cover any drain line with a temp resistant wrap and you are set.

 

[CSVT#49]

You can make a drain line from copper tubing and never worry about it. You can solder sections easily to make it snake around the exhaust. Just cover any drain line with a temp resistant wrap and you are set.

This is exactly what I did to route the line for my oil pressure sensor. Works really well.

 

[TUFTOUR]

Completed this weekend...pics of damage and how it was repaired.

You can see where the oil was dripping on the header and O2 sensor...

Also found that the oil drain line was leaking at the flange on the turbo...looked like the teflon tape had burned off (original kit used 3/8 NPT) and caused oil to leak out from the threads and run down the line...just an fyi for folks still using the same set-up.

 

[BrApple]

I really have to change out the line on my also so that it is routed in a different way.

Right now I have to block tapped and the drain line runs behind the header below the oil-cooler lines.

This was after one year, maybe a year and a half. I need to check it again to make sure its ok.

 

[CSVT#49]

That hose still looks to close for comfort IMO. I'd definitely look into the hard line option... it's very easy to make bent lines. A guy could even make a bracket to support the line that would be held on by one of the bell housing bolts.

Also found that the oil drain line was leaking at the flange on the turbo...looked like the teflon tape had burned off (original kit used 3/8 NPT) and caused oil to leak out from the threads and run down the line...just an fyi for folks still using the same set-up.

Pipe dope is where it's at. Teflon tape = fail.