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Tubular Rear Arm Control Sheared

Those grease fittings look as if they have never been used. The heim joint is so dirty it looks like theres a million miles on them.

What is the reason that you changed from the stock ones to the tubular?
 
:laugh: LMAO!!! You 4x4 guys crack me up!! You got it right that over built is better than under built when suspension is the topic, but seriously, the contour weighs in at what 3100 lbs? A 1/2" moly male shanked heim has a static load rating of 24,000lbs. You could lift 8 contours with one heim. If you rocked an aluminum heim you would have to cut your load down to only 5 contours :laugh: So it was already "over" built.
I rocked 3/4" ptfe lined heim on mine but shhhh I plan on converting my contour over to a stump puller.

To me the picture speaks volumes. If it had been greased as often as was told there would be signs of it. To me it was a maintenance issue from the get go.

Kyle...lol!! Take your johnny joint/uni balls and go lift an aircraft carrier with em.

99SE said:
What is the reason that you changed from the stock ones to the tubular?
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Strength and coolness. Stock rear lateral arms are made of recycled toilet paper. I ain't talkin John Wayne TP either.
 
Static loads are static - shock loads are where things come into play. My suggestions were huge, yes, but a quality 1/2" QA1 hiem should be minimum on any suspension part driven on the street.
 
TRicker said:
lol. crazytalk, build me a pair of these. i'll make sure they stay lubed.
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I got the rear laterals under control. I'm working on some ideas I have for the fronts. If you want some rears for the time being I can hook you up but be prepared to get nickled and dimed. The heims I ran on mine were 80 bucks for the pair. If you wanna get nutty we could always go military grade for 232 bucks a piece. :laugh:
Then there is the DOM tube, the inner bushings, little bit of machining and welding, and a possible alignment. Although, I can probably get it close enough that it wouldn't matter.
Maybe after SZ we can connect and piece it all together here and there or kill it all in one shot. Up to you. Hit me up and I'll help you out as much as I can.
 
If you have these I recommend upgrading to a larger rod end. I was able to snap one of these in half in a vise with little pressure.
 
CrazyTalkSVT said:
I got the rear laterals under control. I'm working on some ideas I have for the fronts. If you want some rears for the time being I can hook you up but be prepared to get nickled and dimed. The heims I ran on mine were 80 bucks for the pair. If you wanna get nutty we could always go military grade for 232 bucks a piece. :laugh:
Then there is the DOM tube, the inner bushings, little bit of machining and welding, and a possible alignment. Although, I can probably get it close enough that it wouldn't matter.
Maybe after SZ we can connect and piece it all together here and there or kill it all in one shot. Up to you. Hit me up and I'll help you out as much as I can.
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well either way, its gotta be an upgrade for it to be worthwhile. i dont mind the nickel and dime stuff, and this car isnt seeing snow ever again. actually, it might not see an interior ever again. i want to make this a street driven race car, so a fully adjustable suspension is something i will be needing. every little bit will help, but its gotta be strong too.
 
Let me know if you need any info on making your car a race car. I have many ideas, and have even tried a few out. If nothing else, you can learn from a few of my mistakes.
 
I'll show you what I did for the rear lateral bars. The bars are 1" DOM 3/16" wall. The spindle side is tapped 3/4 - 16 for the heim. I used a 3/4" hole and shank sized heim that is PTFE(Self lubricating teflon) lined. The inner end link was 2" DOM with a 3/8" wall that has been bored for an interference fit for the factory bushings.

Because the heim is a 3/4" hole which is obviously too big, but the housing itself is physically smaller than factory I made spacers to take up the difference. They get the bolt size back down to the metric factory size as well as take up .25" to align the bar back to straight.

From the factory Ford uses eccentric washers and slotted holes on the inner mounts for toe in and toe out adjustments. Now the adjustment is on the spindle side using the heims threads, but those pesky slotted holes are still on the subframe. So the four machined .25" thick washers you see in the pictures are what align the inner end link to center. So now the chance of the bar slipping in the slotted hole is gone.
bars.jpg

Endlink.jpg

heim.jpg
 
That's beefier than what I have on the rally car. I only used 1" dom with a .156 wall. I hope to give them a proper thrashing in a few weeks to see if I made a decent choice.
 
TRicker said:
dude i'm all over those!
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Then weez gotta hook up. PM me.

Goumba said:
That's beefier than what I have on the rally car. I only used 1" dom with a .156 wall. I hope to give them a proper thrashing in a few weeks to see if I made a decent choice.
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You should be fine...I'm assuming you welded in threaded bungs? I went 3/16 wall so I could just tap the bar.
Let me, as well as the rest of us know how your thrashing goes! :laugh:
 
I used 1/2 inch rod ends on mine back in the day with no probs. I also made threaded bungs for the tube I used. I eliminaterd all the rubber and made spacers for both ends.....ala robert mumm.
 
I wound up tapping the tube on the lower control arms. My toe links are cromoly with tube adaptors.
 
I would like to see the end of the arm with a poly bushing, not reusing the rubber one. But it looks like a definite improvement.
 
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