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Transmission Removal - Advice, Tips, Words of Wisdom, Etc.

KyleQ said:
There is one bolt you remove on the inside to remove the steering - just remove the bolt, slid the tab up and it will come apart. I've pulled the motor to do headers and a clutch, the only resaon I did it that was was to install the headers. I've pull around 8 transmissions through the wheel well and continue to do it that was as it is easy to do - I've got it down to a science.
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Thank you. Your response and attitude made me feel a lot better about how I'm doing it. And thanks for clearing up the steering part.
 
Well, the transmission has finally been pulled as of last night. Kinda smooshed my legs a bit trying to wiggle it out but I got it for sure. Wasn't expecting it to pop off and just fall on my lap haha.

A little thanks to blu fuz and svttour for a bit of guidance on what I had left. Now, time to put it all back together later when it's not hot.
 
i get to do this now ugh why you ask? cuz the less then year old clutch put in by a tard didnt tighten the tob bolts and striped one so it leaks like hell fml!
 
So its about to come out i just got the axle to pull and shift linkage i think lol so you say to unbolt the box thing and not just the cables that hook to it...?
 
Yes, unbolt the bracket the cables sit in, don't mess with the cables themself. Of course you'll need to pop the cable ends off the shift tower. There are two bolts that hold it in place that should be easy to spot, as they are facing you. Everything makes sense now that I have done it, but now I have to take it back off because I didn't put a sealer on my TOB on the bellhousing machine face, so it's leaking. FML, right? All that work just to go and do it again.
 
Yeah, I feel you. I live in Florida, too. Doesn't really help that it gets super humid. And on top of that, the car is out in the drive way, not the garage, so I'm in the sun. For once, it's nice being under the car to work on it...it's shady lol
 
Yea lol well i dont have the humidity but im out side to cuz my 5.0 is in the garage getting painted, and this problem is pulling me from that but i got new longer bolts and put gaset maker on the trans then bolted her down and its all gravy and a touch of removable loc tight to keep em tight. so now its time to put it back together.

Also i have lowering springs off a 99 Cougar im gonna through on since its cake to swapp at this point. Autozone says the same part nmber for the coug and tour so its ok to use them springs correct?
 
how do i know? they dont say name jut the number stuff 75208 08/08 and i was just doing the fronts right now and getting to the back but i dont wat the back to be lower then the front
 
Cougar Intrax springs on a contour:
P1010390.jpg
 
silicone? You should be using high temp black rtv or equivalent - Take your suspension questions to the suspension section.
 
"equivalent" - I couldn't remember the name. You can use the RTV in this case. I have on all my trans installs and never a leak.
 
I'm just a few days from being able to pull it back out, but as long as Joe is saying that the RTV is good enough, then I'll do that. I just don't want to have to pull it back out. By the way, that leads me to ask this question that I've been meaning to text you, Joe. Is there a way to test if it leaks before putting the trans back up? Like, just have it sit on the ground and bleed the clutch and see if it does?
 
I guess use the anerobic sealer if you havn't pulled yours back out yet. Either will work, but apparently the sealer is more widely accepted over the RTV.
 
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