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To synchro or not

dukeofsho

Veteran CEG'er
Joined
Jul 30, 2004
Messages
835
Location
Oak Lawn, IL
Well, I have my trans cracked open for a diff and pinion swap. Could someone tell me if new synchros are needed? I bought my SVT with a bad 2.5 so i never got to drive it. I have no idea if it ever did any grinding between gears.

PICT4960.jpg

PICT4961.jpg

PICT4962.jpg


Does anyone have Terrys Email?
 
As far as i can tell they look real good. The blocker rings dont look like they have any real wear on them.

Terry is on fordcontour.org. You can reach him there.
 
Those pictures dont show the important part of the syncro that wears. the only way to see it is to take it all apart, which at that point you might as well replace them. othan than that, the only indication of any possible syncro wear is how it shifted when it was running, which you obviously dont know.
 
Look at the teeth close, they should not be worn badly. They should have about the same shape as the gear ones next to them. Then shove the synchro ring over against the gear itself. It MUST have some clearance space between the gear and ring, that means there is still some brake angle left inside the ring. If ring is worn out, it will go all the way up against the gear to butt sides with it and no clearance. The synchro ring has an angle built into the center ID that matches a slight angle on the gear OD. Works like this: shift fork hub moves toward synchro ring and engages it, then those two move until the inside angle starts dragging on gear angle. That drag is the brake action that allows hub, ring and gear to all equalize speed so that they all engage. All parts MUST at some time be going the SAME SPEED or parts will NOT ENGAGE. You need that inside angle braking action to do that, synchro ring can look perfect but if it butts gear (wore out), will grind and jerky engagement just like clutch adjustment bad. You don't have to disassemble to check that.
 
Look at the teeth close, they should not be worn badly. They should have about the same shape as the gear ones next to them. Then shove the synchro ring over against the gear itself. It MUST have some clearance space between the gear and ring, that means there is still some brake angle left inside the ring. If ring is worn out, it will go all the way up against the gear to butt sides with it and no clearance. The synchro ring has an angle built into the center ID that matches a slight angle on the gear OD. Works like this: shift fork hub moves toward synchro ring and engages it, then those two move until the inside angle starts dragging on gear angle. That drag is the brake action that allows hub, ring and gear to all equalize speed so that they all engage. All parts MUST at some time be going the SAME SPEED or parts will NOT ENGAGE. You need that inside angle braking action to do that, synchro ring can look perfect but if it butts gear (wore out), will grind and jerky engagement just like clutch adjustment bad. You don't have to disassemble to check that.

I wish you were here to show me. I might just take both shafts in to Shops trans guy.
 
Another way to tell. Shove the center hub that fork engages way to one side to engage that gear. Now it's out of the way. Take the exposed gold colored synchro ring on other side and while holding the gear next to it, push the ring into gear, it will start to lockup before it completely hits the side of gear flat. If it goes all the way to gear and hits it flat before locking up, it's wore out. Should lock up first before hitting gear side.
 
if you have the know-how to disassemble and reassemble it, i would definitely replace them. its much easier to do it now then down the road. plus you'll have the peace of mind knowing you wont have to worry about it after. synchros are cheap enough that its well worth the trouble of doing it now
 
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