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Timing chain or rod bearing????

Desiato said:
ouch.. poor tranny. do you usually beat on it like this?
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Everyday. Cars are meant to be driven hard. No matter the situation. If it can't handle the stresss, fix what breaks. I personally have driven this car daily for 2.5 years. And everyday of that time, it has been manually shifted, and redlined. The only time I don't beat on it is in traffic.

As far as putting the one bearing in, I couldn't care less if the new owner got a quick fix. I'm moving to Scotland at the end of summer. The amount of money it would take to fix it properly is not worth it. I was planning on selling it in the next 3 months anyways. Has anybody got an idea of what the car would be worth as is. Because in my opinion, it is only worth the weight of the car.

3L? Why would it be easier to put in a 3L? I would still need a new motor, there would still be a lot of time put into swapping them, and I'd have to deal with the swapping of computers and such. Not to mention the PITA of doing this swap. Is there an economical side that I'm missing here?

Again, has anyone done the timing chain in the vehicle? If I can do the T/C in the car, then I'll get the crank turned, throw in new rings, mains, rods, oil pump and of course new gskt's. I was planning on doing the UIM and The LIM before it was sold, so all that would be done as well. Still I need to know if the timing chain can be done in it. The haynes manuel just says it's extremely difficult to do in the car, but says nothing about trying to do so.

If I we're to sell it to someone with just doing the one bearing, I would mention it, but I would definately not offer a warranty, that would be stupid in my eyes. Even if it never went, and I'd nevver had any issues with the car, I would not sell it any way other than "as is". Once the papers are in someone elses name, the car is not my problem.
 
STPVIPER said:
Everyday. Cars are meant to be driven hard. No matter the situation. If it can't handle the stresss, fix what breaks. I personally have driven this car daily for 2.5 years. And everyday of that time, it has been manually shifted, and redlined. The only time I don't beat on it is in traffic.

As far as putting the one bearing in, I couldn't care less if the new owner got a quick fix. I'm moving to Scotland at the end of summer. The amount of money it would take to fix it properly is not worth it. I was planning on selling it in the next 3 months anyways. Has anybody got an idea of what the car would be worth as is. Because in my opinion, it is only worth the weight of the car.

3L? Why would it be easier to put in a 3L? I would still need a new motor, there would still be a lot of time put into swapping them, and I'd have to deal with the swapping of computers and such. Not to mention the PITA of doing this swap. Is there an economical side that I'm missing here?

Again, has anyone done the timing chain in the vehicle? If I can do the T/C in the car, then I'll get the crank turned, throw in new rings, mains, rods, oil pump and of course new gskt's. I was planning on doing the UIM and The LIM before it was sold, so all that would be done as well. Still I need to know if the timing chain can be done in it. The haynes manuel just says it's extremely difficult to do in the car, but says nothing about trying to do so.

If I we're to sell it to someone with just doing the one bearing, I would mention it, but I would definately not offer a warranty, that would be stupid in my eyes. Even if it never went, and I'd nevver had any issues with the car, I would not sell it any way other than "as is". Once the papers are in someone elses name, the car is not my problem.
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You, sir, are an asshole.
 
"If I we're to sell it to someone with just doing the one bearing, I would mention it, but I would definately not offer a warranty, that would be stupid in my eyes...."

I say right there that I would mention it. I wouldn't ever sell something like this without understanding. But I mean if I fix the rod bearing only, and sell the car for $1000 less than its worth with a good motor. Compared to putting almost $2000 into it and only getting half of that back. If I had my own shop, I would already have the old motor out. But i'm borrowing time from mechanix to let me into their shop's (i'm an auto parts salesman, so I know a lot of mechanix) and having to do so during my normanl work hours. So everytime I'm working on it i'm losing money. And obviously just paying one of them to do it for me will cost even more. I don't do the credit cards and "get now pay later" thing. So I have to take every little aspect into consideratiopn. So far i've found a motor for $650, 185psi acroos the board, with about the same mailage as mine. So camparing that to the parts needed to fix it. Rings($175), ros bear.(5.70 ea), main bear.(36.50), oil pump(88.75), head gskt set(264.50), conversion lower set(78.65) and head bolts(42.30) + the time to do it, and any machining cost associated with it.(almost 720 in parts alone). So a new motor is the cheaper option for complete repair and peace of mind. But 1 rod bearing for 5.70 and a $1000 deduction or so from its worth, that sounds like the cheapest to me. So no I'm not a jerk, I'm contimplating my options, that's all.
 
STPVIPER said:
Everyday. Cars are meant to be driven hard. No matter the situation. If it can't handle the stresss, fix what breaks. I personally have driven this car daily for 2.5 years. And everyday of that time, it has been manually shifted, and redlined. The only time I don't beat on it is in traffic.
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No, these transaxles are not designed to be manually shifted. This goes for most automatics unless they're advertised to have a manual shift option. First and Second gears and reverse lockout are there for situational purposes, not to simulate a manual transaxle or for performance driving.

I feel sorry for whomever ends up with this car after you.
 
Desiato said:
No, these transaxles are not designed to be manually shifted. This goes for most automatics unless they're advertised to have a manual shift option. First and Second gears and reverse lockout are there for situational purposes, not to simulate a manual transaxle or for performance driving.

I feel sorry for whomever ends up with this car after you.
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I agree.

I want to stress to you, that if you knew it was bad to rev your car out while doing right had turns, and you did it anyways. You sir are dumb as crap. You set yourself up for a disaster.

And now you destroyed a perfectly running car with your aggressive childish driving that endangers everyone around you. You should sell the car the way it is and give you drivers license to your parents. Because you are a threat to people around you with a 3 thousand pound car.

I would say good luck to you, but your only going to rip someone off or get it fixed and of course you knowing (revving car out) destroy your car again.

If you want to go play, go play at a go kart park.
 
I don't see how all you want to do is judge me. If I wanted that, i'd join a church. Yes, I know what happens to your a/t when you manually shift it, and don't ake care of it. I have always done trans sevices regularily, and I have never had any metallic material come out of it. The car was maintained with very high standards its whole life. I have never had any chance of endangering another human while on the road. I drive my car hard yes, but I never said that I drive like an idiot. I have never had a ticket in my own vehicles(yes when I was a delivery driver a few years ago, but not my car, and I was asked to rush), and I have never been involved in a car accident in my own vehicles, and the ones that I have been in, were being rear ended already stopped at a light. I have never even had a close call with my own driving, and I am being completely honest, as this is a forum, what do I have to hide? I have driven race cars, I have driven muscle cars, I have driven street bikes, I've even drivin tractors. In no way whatsoever to I ever drive in a regaurd that would endanger a passenger in my vehicle, a pedestrian, and animal, and especially the other drivers on the road. I drive with the utmost respect for everyone around me, and my hope is one day everyone will do that.

How I drive my car is up to me, Yea I drive it hard, but never in an abusive manner. The corner that this started on, is 150ft from my house, I have driven it just the same a lot. It is not a long right corner, as I said its about a 45 degree change. If I believed that the car would risk starvation from doing so, I would not have. I know my g-forces, and I know my engines, and I know that I should not have damaged the rod from that particular corner. Before I knew about the starvation problems, I would rip around off-ramps at freeway speeds, I have not done so since. If you continue to talk about your judgements of me, then I will request a moderators assistance. But I am not bashing anyone here. All i'm asking is a question. CAN YOU REMOVE THE TIMING CHAIN IN THE VEHICLE, IS IT POSSIBLE? I WANT TO FIX THIS CAR PROPERELY, AND I WANT TO BE ECONOMICAAL ABOUT IT. PLEASE BE OF SOME ASSISTANCE. THANK YOU.
 
It has been stated what you should do.

1. Rebuild the engine
2. Put in a 2.5L another one
3. Put in a 3L

Those ar eyour options pick which one you want.
 
For :censored::censored::censored::censored:s sake people, a YES or NO answer would suffice. I know that I will be having to either repair or replace. But answer the god-damned question I AM ASKING! Can you change the timing chain in the vehicle!
 
STPVIPER said:
For :censored::censored::censored::censored:s sake people, a YES or NO answer would suffice. I know that I will be having to either repair or replace. But answer the god-damned question I AM ASKING! Can you change the timing chain in the vehicle!
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Of course you can.!!!

Holy crap pick up a repair manual and read it for christ sakes.

Your not handicaped are you? If not search for your answer if you can't find it during searching pick up a book and read.

Did i answer your question now.
 
Again, yes you can but the amount with the amount of time it takes, it would be more worthwhile to pull the motor. And if you were doing that you might as well put in a 3 liter since they are cheap to come by now. And by the way, if your timing chain broke (which you stated it looked fine) the car wouldn't run since these are non interference motors. So why do you want to know about the timing chain so bad when you know that its ok? The timing components are very reliable and I tend to only hear timing component issues with the zetecs. I can't say that I ever heard of a duratec timing chain breaking.
 
xtascox said:
Again, yes you can but the amount with the amount of time it takes, it would be more worthwhile to pull the motor. And if you were doing that you might as well put in a 3 liter since they are cheap to come by now. And by the way, if your timing chain broke (which you stated it looked fine) the car wouldn't run since these are non interference motors. So why do you want to know about the timing chain so bad when you know that its ok? The timing components are very reliable and I tend to only hear timing component issues with the zetecs. I can't say that I ever heard of a duratec timing chain breaking.
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I would need to remove the heads and the crank to fix it. If i can leave the block in the car i could do it at home in the parking lot.
 
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