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Timing chain and tensioner replacement

B

Broken Bolts

CEG'er
Joined
Aug 30, 2010
Messages
49
Location
CT
I've had a ticking/timing chain rattle as long as i've owned my SVT. Yesterday I finally ripped it apart. Engine has 144k miles on it.

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Now I have a couple of questions. Why does my bank 1 set of guides have a tan material and bank 2 has black material as documented by the second picture? Is this stock? Did someone replace just one bank of guides?

And if you look really close the right timing chain guide on bank 2 there is a 1/2" piece of the black material missing at the end/bottom. Not normal?

I can push bank 2 timing chain tensioner piston in by hand but bank 1 tensioner is hard and I can't push it in. The noise was from right above the crank pulley and that is right where my soft bank 2 timing chain tensioner is. Should you be able to push the tensioner in by hand?

I bought a timing chain kit off of ebay and I am questioning the quality of its components. I paid $112 for 2 chains, 2 tensioners, all the guides and the crank gear.

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Half of my engine in the trunk.
 
Please can someone tell me if tan material on the guides is stock or is black material on the guides stock? Or did they mis match them stock? Or do you all not have a clue and just screw mil eliminators into any hole you can and call yourself a mechanic?
 
Wow thank you. My chains were stretched and tensioners are very worn/loose. There was definitely someone else in here before, bolts had evidence of being removed, they put RTV on the crank surface of the balancer (uhhh?), and they only replaced 1 tensioner arm and 1 guide. The hydraulic tensioner was the bad part. Someone went through the trouble of taking all of this apart just to halfass it? Wow, JUST WOW.
 
Well we know you can take stuff apart so put a 3.0 in it. I am impressed you did the timing chain while the motor was in the car, that is tougher than pulling the engine...
 
Thank you. Would you believe me if I told you I did all of that in my dirt backyard without a lift and without air tools just a hydraulic jack, jack stand and hand tools?

I'm not done with this 2.5 just yet. I just ripped the oil pan off and I am inspecting the rods and bearings right now. The rods are intact, There are no metal shavings on the windage tray or anywhere else. It is ticking really bad. Definitely bottom end noise.
 
I think I may have found the problem. My oil pump pickup screen is completely clogged by red fiber/cloth material like from a rag (or a few 1000). Maybe caused oil starvation causing the bearings to wear.

The rod bearings look ok worn but not spun. The crank looks scored.

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How does it look?
 
The crank will damage any new bearing you put into it. Either way you need to pull the motor to replace the crank or get it polished. My concern is where the rest of the rag went, is it stuck in the pump or oil feed lines? The bearings you show don't look bad, but does every Rod bearing look that way? My guess is one is really bad. Main bearings that are bad create a deep bass knock while Rod bearings have a louder knock all the time and it will vary by RPM.

I think you need to put a 3.0 in it and put the SVT cams and chains you just bought in also, but hey that is just me....
 
Every rod bearing is within specification with plastigauge. It's the oil pump ticking, pressure drops when it gets hot and the oil pump starts ticking. Its from whoever torn apart a rag and threw it in side my oil pan.

It is load dependant, temperature dependant (only ticks when it is hot), sounds like a tick, not a knock, coming from the harmonic balancer, replaced harmonic balancer and all timing equipment. Only thing left is the oil pump. Looks like I get to take it apart ALL over again.

I'm going to be the only person on this earth to remove and replace the timing chains on a duratec in the car twice.
 
Now I am really impressed. You took the front exhaust header off the car while the engine was installed? Looks like you found the problem. I am still confused about the bearings though. Any marks on the crank are sure to destroy the bearings but how long it would take I don't really know.

What is your next step?
 
I worked as a professional auto mechanic for 10 years and it was the worse time of my life. Needless to say, I have the tools, knowledge and determination to do just about anything.

Next step is to put the manifold back on the car with a new gasket.

Right before I pulled the manifold, I pulled all 12 hydraulic lash adjusters on the front cylinder head. Every single one was hard as a rock and in mint condition. It was an exhaust leak at the manifold the whole time, not the rod bearings. My hearing sucks. My track record of diag of noises is HORRIBLE. I had a friend look at it that is not a mechanic and within 5 minutes he said exhaust leak and i DISAGREED with him and we fought. I actually pulled it off just to prove him wrong. Look who was right.
 
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