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Tachometer (RPM gauge) not working

95 Duratec - Tachometer RPM not working - sensor? signal path?

95 Duratec - Tachometer RPM not working - sensor? signal path?

I need to troubleshoot a non functioning Tachometer. Since I don't see any cable (some here suggested it is a mechanical tach, but I assume they may had speedo in mind) coming through the firewall, it has to be an electric tach. What sensor is providing the signal? What wires/connectors/sensors should I check? Fuse?
 
Is anyone having a suggestion for a TACHOMETER that is not working? Everyone seems to be talking about a SPEEDOMETER (which IS working).
Where is the signal coming from?
What sensor?
What connectors to check?
What wires to check?
Fuses?

Tachometer answers, please.

Thanks.
 
The post was hijacked by SPEEDOMETER guys. Posted new one to start fresh, seems everyone seems to continue on the wrong (Speedometer) track, and no one has the TACHOMETER in mind anymore.
 
no, there is no need to start another thread. perhaps no one has any solution, hence why there are no newer posts on this.

as you suggested, start checking fuses and tracing wires. get a shop manual to assist.
 
vtraudt said:
The post was hijacked by SPEEDOMETER guys. Posted new one to start fresh, seems everyone seems to continue on the wrong (Speedometer) track, and no one has the TACHOMETER in mind anymore.
Click to expand...

Because we suggested you swapping in a NEW CLUSTER. If you have a CABLE DRIVEN SPEEDO then you need another cluster with a CABLE DRIVEN SPEEDO. If you have an ELECTRONIC SPEEDO, then you need another cluster with an ELECTRONIC SPEEDO.
 
vtraudt said:
Thanks for the hint.
I have checked for orange pound signs yet. But checked for obvious cable coming through the fire wall into the engine bay, could see one.
will first do the the orange pound sign check.
Click to expand...

No orange in the trip meter; no cable coming through the firewall ==> no mechanical tachometer.

So, what can I check? Where does the tachometer get its signal from? Wires? Fuses? Sensors? Connectors?
 
I've found that the multi-pin connectors on the back of the cluster can be suspect, especially if all else is working fine. Try removing your cluster, spritz the connector cables with some good contact cleaner, and re-insert the multiplugs (maybe once or twice to clean away corrosion).
 
Scorpion8 said:
I've found that the multi-pin connectors on the back of the cluster can be suspect, especially if all else is working fine. Try removing your cluster, spritz the connector cables with some good contact cleaner, and re-insert the multiplugs (maybe once or twice to clean away corrosion).
Click to expand...

Is there a good write up on how to remove the cluster? From past experience (and dealing with plastic clips/fasteners), I suspect pain and broken parts in the process if not done right.
 
Nah it's easy. Use a flathead to pop out the lower dash bezel trim pieces, like the clock, defroster switch. Pop out the connectors. Remove two philips screws near clock, remove one on left of the steering wheel, and remove the two above the steering wheel in the opening for the gauges. Then there are 5 philips screws that hold the gauges into place. Take these out, lean the gauges forward, and pop the connectors off the back. If you feel the need to remove any individual gauges, you'll need a torx screwdriver (not totally sure of the size).
 
Thanks zorrex, I'll give it a try this afternoon. Seems easy enough to check out the connector, and if anything, rule it out (or fix). Anything to check (aside from ensuring good contact) while the connector is off? Checking for signals?
 
Zorrex,
You and I have been talking alot about these clusters lately. It makes me wonder if the clusters are prone to failure, especially if they're electronic. I know when I did the swap from standard to sport, my cluster never failed.
 
vtraudt, if I were you, I'd just pick up a new cluster, that way you can eliminate a bad cluster off the bat. Searching for random bad connections will be tiring and you may not even find the problem.

Lavell, I've seen lots of problems from members about clusters having problems, but I don't think all of them are bad clusters. I recall BrApple having issues with his cluster, but it was a different electronic issue. Clusters are just something to add to the list of problems with these cars :)
 
zorrex said:
vtraudt, if I were you, I'd just pick up a new cluster, that way you can eliminate a bad cluster off the bat.
Click to expand...

Not entirely true. He knows his cluster works, "most of the time" but has become intermittent. With a new cluster, all you know is the seller "said it worked last time" and you roll the dice whether they had the same issues too. Vtraudt's issue seems to be connector related or cable, since it works then and again and then doesn't. Vibration induced? A ground somewhere that bounces on and off making contact? It's easier to fix what you know should work, then get a new "used" part and start over with a whole new set of issues. If he has a cable ground, then he'll fight the same issue with the new cluster as with the old, and yet not know if it is a ground or the cluster.
 
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