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Swirl/split port 3L long block swap? (already been searchin)

K

KAOS_3.0

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
May 16, 2008
Messages
2,997
Location
SE / CLT,NC / ATL,GA
alright, well I've been searching and most 3l info pertains to either doing a hybrid or swapping in a complete tumble/oval port 3l.

the info I have found on a long block under my VLIM parts has to do with stuffing them on a central injector oval port head, which I refuse to do, because in my opinion, it's just dumb (no offence, to each their own)

so really all I've figured out is that I can splice egr piping with a 5/8's compression coupler from lowes, and that I'll need to use my 2.5l oil pan.

I know the split port 3l only existed till 99 or '00.

so I know I'm looking for a 97-98 or earlier maybe?

I'm planning on using my SE intake manifolds, IMRC, throttle body, fuel rails, and injectors for now.

later I'll get higher lb/hr injectors, and SVT intake manifolds.

I guess my first question is, what is the complete year range of taurus's with the split port long block?

my next questions pertain to what other issues will turn up in the install?

I've read something about needing cougar engine mounts?

any way, I've spent three days searching and reading threads with little luck, if the info is out there, please link me, if not, feel free to give me a in depth description.

I also have a 98 ford CD, if you need to point me to sections of that for reference.

sorry if I'm a newb, no flaming please

thanks in advance

-Kaos

[edit]

oh yeah, I'm also aware that this swap is definitely not the best for performance, but right now I need an engine, and if i get a 3l in there I can do peripheral mods over time to get more out of it.... I'm poor
 
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the split port 3L isn't really any harder than the oval port. your best bet is to use the ful split port and run a electrip water pump. the early 3L's didn't run the wp off the front head like the 2.5 or oval ports. the 3L manifolds will provide you enough flow.
 
Desiato said:
It's pretty quiet here this weekend because of spring zing.. if you haven't already, you may wish to search the old forums: http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php
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yeah, I looked over there.

I still don't have my mind made up on the swap I posted above after hearing a ton of problems with it, so my mind is open, I'm just super poor and dont see the point in pulling the engine, and spending over 200 to swap gaskets when my engine could be fried from oil starvation/warped head when I stand a chance of dropping in a 3l for only a tiny bit more.
 
95pgt-t said:
well..don't plan on driving the car hard w/a stock diff and a 3L
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I know.

I'm trying to figure out a parts price for a KAZZ clutch type front diff

I'm not a fan of ATB's as they send all your power to the wheel that's NOT HOOKING UP!

terry hasn't gotten back to me with a parts price, so I'm going to have to look else were, even though I'd rather send him the money.

I'm planning on putting it in my self though, since I've had my take out trans apart and put it back together. who knows if it works though, but I'm sure I can get one together.
 
SicSE said:
You're thinking of an open diff... or wording that wrong. ATB's send the power to the wheel that IS gripping.
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big massive WRONG!!!

you could ask terry on FCO, or, you could check "how things work" or...

you could look at just about any other automotive forum. I'm in the middle of trying to decide what diff's would be best in a 98 RS impreza at NASIOC. my screen name there is K-A-O-S

a torsen or quaife is ABSOLUTELY NOT an LSD, it's an ATB (auto-torque bias)

they work great if you don't spin a wheel.

they come stock on humvee's, and the owners manual tells you to apply the breaks in order to create resistance when a wheel is in the air so you don't get stuck.

do some research homies.
 
KAOS_2.5M said:
only "true" LSD is a clutch type or a viscous coupler, do your homework

nobody to my knowledge offers a viscous diff for the CDW27, so thats why I want the KAZZ clutch type.
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Kind of condescending of you there, champ. Especially when you're asking for advice/input. Imho, you'll find that people will be more willing to help you if you ask nicely and say thanks. The other way won't get you too far.
 
KAOS_2.5M said:
big massive WRONG!!!

you could ask terry on FCO, or, you could check "how things work" or...

you could look at just about any other automotive forum. I'm in the middle of trying to decide what diff's would be best in a 98 RS impreza at NASIOC. my screen name there is K-A-O-S

a torsen or quaife is ABSOLUTELY NOT an LSD, it's an ATB (auto-torque bias)

they work great if you don't spin a wheel.

they come stock on humvee's, and the owners manual tells you to apply the breaks in order to create resistance when a wheel is in the air so you don't get stuck.

do some research homies.
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nonono: :nonono: :nonono:

Yo yo yo hommie yo, listen up, tone your attitude down.

If your using FCO as a reference. Then why are you asking us questions over at CEG???? go back over there. :rolleyes:
 
do a hybrid swap. the problem with doing a 97-00 swap is the water pump issue. i used a 98 block and SE heads with SE UIM and it worked out great! the big thing with the older engines is the pistons are not as strong. in late 99 they changed the design you can PM me for the pictures i have of my 98 and late 99 pistons. also the intake runners on the 3L and 2.5 heads are about the same. the downfall is the valves. my measurements (along with a lot of others on here) have shown the 2.5 valves to be smaller but can have the 3L valves seated in their place allowing a lot more flow. i have done this with my build. also tear the engine down and replace the bearings. an engine that old needs to be completely rebuilt for reliability purposes. if you dont you have that much higher risk of spinning a bearing. also the oil pans can be modified to match the MTX-75 trans. just drill 2 holes and you are set.

hope that is enough information for you.
if you need anymore just feel free to ask :)
 
KAOS_2.5M said:
a torsen or quaife is ABSOLUTELY NOT an LSD, it's an ATB (auto-torque bias).
Click to expand...
According to Quaife, it's both. But what do they know? They just make the parts. You should tell Quaife that they don't know what they're talking about. Maybe they can fix all the typo's in their literature and on their website.

"The Quaife Automatic Torque Biasing Helical LSD Differential enables your car to accelerate quicker and corner faster... With an normal open differential, much precious power is wasted through wheel spin under acceleration. This happens because the open differential shifts power to the wheel with less grip - along the path of least resistance... The Quaife differential, however, does just the opposite. It senses which wheel has the better grip, and automatically biases the power to that wheel. It does this smoothly and constantly, and without ever completely removing power from the other wheel.
http://www.quaife.co.uk/What-is-a-Quaife-ATB-differential
 
I've never had a "peg leg" problem with my Quaife. It also made a BIG difference with autocrossing.
 
Back to the topic of the motor:

Why go with older technology, even if it is a little cheaper? You are going to end up paying more in the long run. I don't remember if it was here or FCO but someone mentioned the fact that the older split port 3 liters cannot stand up to a manual transmission. That said, your much better off (performance wise and economically) to go with a newer oval port 3 liter. If you really want to retain the split port intakes, then study up on port matching the heads. Personally I feel your best bet is to do a full oval port swap.
 
kscontourkid said:
do a hybrid swap. the problem with doing a 97-00 swap is the water pump issue. i used a 98 block and SE heads with SE UIM and it worked out great! the big thing with the older engines is the pistons are not as strong. in late 99 they changed the design you can PM me for the pictures i have of my 98 and late 99 pistons. also the intake runners on the 3L and 2.5 heads are about the same. the downfall is the valves. my measurements (along with a lot of others on here) have shown the 2.5 valves to be smaller but can have the 3L valves seated in their place allowing a lot more flow. i have done this with my build. also tear the engine down and replace the bearings. an engine that old needs to be completely rebuilt for reliability purposes. if you dont you have that much higher risk of spinning a bearing. also the oil pans can be modified to match the MTX-75 trans. just drill 2 holes and you are set.

hope that is enough information for you.
if you need anymore just feel free to ask :)
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one of my heads could be warped. I'm really not trying to pay for all the gaskets AND a new long block.

I may just wind up doing a full 01 swap. IDK

what is the deal with the water pump location on a complete 01 aluminum oval UIM 3L?
 
if you can get a block for 150 like i did plus a set of heads (SVT heads go for 100-150) then 400 for gaskets chains bearings etc then it might make a little sense or you could just do a full 01 or newer oval port swap and do the same modifications as you would to a hybrid plus modified EGR tube, extend some wires and make the vacuum system work and have a really nice motor. either way the hybrid and the full swap both give a very rewarding outcome.
 
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