SVT with 50K miles - maintenance?

[morten]

Hey all, it's been a while since I checked in. The 1999 SVT is still going strong. All I've done to it since acquisition are new tires, regular Mobile 1 changes, etc.

Now that she's at 50K miles (81K kilometres), I'm wondering what maintenance work I should consider.

The only problems I'm having are a heating fan switch, (either off or full, no in-between), no AC, occassional reluctance to start right away and a teeny bit of resistance going into first and second. I've never changed tranny oil.

So, suggestions?

 

[Tony2005]

Heater fan issue is the heater blower resistor $20.

Read this.
http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread.php?t=1739&highlight=heater+blower+resistor

Starting problems. Check battery (also clean off corrosion) and check/clean/change IAC valve.

Charge the battery well, then test battery and alternator.

Battery test. Engine off, headlights on for one minute. Voltage across battery terminals should be 12 to 12.5.

Alternator test. Engine running, voltage across battery terminals should be 14 to 14.5.

IAC valve
2 bolts. Need a gasket also. It is easier if you remove the EVR solenoid valve next to it. Gives you more space (for your left hand) to get to the bottom bolt.
IAC change in UIM/LIM rebuild

Or per Ford CD

Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve

Removal

1. Disconnect battery ground cable

2. Remove the air cleaner outlet tube and resonator assembly.
3. Disconnect the main chassis vacuum line.

4. Disconnect the ignition coil and radio interference capacitor wiring.

5. Remove the fuel line bracket retaining bolt.

6. On 2.0L engine equipped vehicles, raise vehicle on hoist.
7.
7. Disconnect the engine control sensor wiring or fuel charging wiring (depending upon application) from the idle air control valve (IAC valve) at the idle air control valve connector.

8. On 2.5L engine equipped vehicles, remove retainer for engine control sensor wiring from the upper retaining stud bolt.

9. Remove the two idle air control valve retaining bolts or stud bolt (depending upon application).

10. Remove the idle air control valve and idle air control valve gasket.

Installation

1. Note: If scraping is necessary, be careful not to damage idle air control valve or intake manifold idle air control valve gasket surfaces or drop material into intake manifold.

Clean idle air control valve gasket mating surfaces.

2. To install idle air control valve, reverse Removal procedure. Tighten the fuel line bracket bolt to 8-12 N-m (71-106 lb-in).

3. On 2.5L engine equipped vehicles, tighten the retaining bolt and stud bolt to 8-12

4. On 2.0L engine equipped vehicles, tighten the idle air control valve retaining bolts to 8-11 N-m (71-97 lb-in).

 

[Big Jim]

Change that trans fluid!

Ford Honey is supposed to be the premium answer, but it comes with a premium price. If nothing else, put in Chrysler Spec ATF+3 or ATF+4. It will shift MUCH better. Others have reported success with Royal Purple and Torco. Stay FAR AWAY from RedLine.

 

[Big Jim]

I would also catch up on other maintenance. If it hasn't been done recently, do the following:

Oil and Oil Filter
Air Filter
Fuel Filter
Clean Throttle Body and IAC Valve
Do a vacuum suck intake manifold cleaning
Flush Brake Fluid
Check condition of Power Steering Fluid and change if grungy
Add injector cleaner to the fuel tank (I like RedLine or Techron).
Rotate Tires
Inspect Brakes

 

[todras]

Royal Purple Syncromax trans. fluid for the win. Even shifts excellent in the cold as I jus found out yesterday.

 

[dbateman]

It sucks that even if you put very few miles on a car, it still ages and things still break. I'm seeing the same thing with my 91 Mustang GT, it has a few minor problems that need fixing, AC doesn't work and I think I've got a leak in the coolant overflow tank.