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Strange problem with Transmission/Clutch

B

Blast47

Veteran CEG'er
Joined
Dec 25, 2006
Messages
571
Location
Phoenix, Arizona (Yeah, it's hot)
So... lately I've been having this weird problem going on.. I'll try to explain it best I can, and see if any of you have ideas as to what it might be:

1st: Sometimes, when I start the car (once it's started) it will not let me engage any of the gears (1-R) .. [yes the clutch pedal is in all the way] it almost feels like it's fighting against me.. :mad: it just will not budge.. there is play in the "neutral zone" but nothing into gear. Sometimes if I keep engaging the clutch [in and out] and trying to put it in gear, it eventually goes in (no grinding or anything) and i'm on my way. Sometimes, I have to turn off the car, and back on, then engage the gear. (this happens... like 1-2times a week)
When the car is not turned on, it NEVER does this.. it always allows me to engage the gears.

2nd: about two or three times now - when I am sitting at a light, and have the car in first w/ the clutch pedal down (basically waiting to go) if I give a little gas w/o releasing the clutch, it feels like my car is trying to move (You can feel a little bit of motion in the engine area and the car will jerk ever so slightly as if the clutch was not all the way down)

3rd: (this has happened 3 times in the past month) when I slow down to take this one sharp turn in my apartment complex [down to about 15mph].. I engage the clutch, shift down to 2nd gear (to prep for the end of the turn) and make my turn.. the car will die. Just.. die - no stalling out, bucking, etc-- just power down and I turn the key and it starts right up again.


I am so confused..
None of the 'not engaging' 'stalling' etc - happens when I am actually driving.. only during those types of instances I stated..

Any ideas? :shrug:
 
The clutch is not fully disengaging. It could be from disc wear, but more likely it is a hydraulic problem. With a little luck you don't need to do anything more than bleed the clutch. Try it and see.
 
Blast47 said:
...3rd: (this has happened 3 times in the past month) when I slow down to take this one sharp turn in my apartment complex [down to about 15mph].. I engage the clutch, shift down to 2nd gear (to prep for the end of the turn) and make my turn.. the car will die. Just.. die - no stalling out, bucking, etc-- just power down and I turn the key and it starts right up again.
.......Any ideas?
Click to expand...
A massive vacuum leak (broken hose, loose clamps, etc.) can cause this. Do you have the CEL lighted? If yes, take it to Autozone or Advance and have the codes read and post the exact codes here.
 
Tony2005 said:
A massive vacuum leak (broken hose, loose clamps, etc.) can cause this. Do you have the CEL lighted? If yes, take it to Autozone or Advance and have the codes read and post the exact codes here.
Click to expand...

For this part of it you may also have a dirty/sticky IAC (idle air control). It is worth cleaning it and the throttle body as maintenance. Sometimes the IAC must be replaced but try cleaning it first.
 
Tony2005 said:
A massive vacuum leak (broken hose, loose clamps, etc.) can cause this. Do you have the CEL lighted? If yes, take it to Autozone or Advance and have the codes read and post the exact codes here.
Click to expand...

The CEL was lit, and I was finally able to take it to Autozone to have it looked at. The old man was an a$$ and wouldn't give me the numbers. He just told me I had one code, it was for an Evap leak he stated. He said it probably meant I needed a new gas cap. He cleared the code after giving my cap a few clicks around. It hasn't come back (yet) but that was only after like 10mins driving back home... :shrug:

Update: OK, as soon as I started my car to go to work, the CEL light was on again :angry: I think I am going to go back later tonight and hopefully get someone else who will give me the actual code so I can follow up...
 
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It is similar to bleeding the brakes. The clutch fluid shares the brake fluid resevoir on top of the brake master cylinder. There is a hose from the resevoir down to the clutch master cylinder. It is just gravity feed to that point so nothing to bleed. Make sure the fluid resevoir is full before starting.

Locate the clutch slave bleeder on top of the bell housing. At least for the first time it helps to move the air intake tube between the air filter and the throttle body for access.

IIRC it is an 8mm or 9mm wrench size. Have someone pump the clutch pedal about 10 times. While they are holding it down, open the bleed port and allow whatever fluid will to squirt out. Near the end of the squirt, close the bleed port, and repeat the pump pedal and hold then bleed several times.

There are alternative ways. You can use a vacuum bleeder and draw fluid from the slave through the bleeder. Gravity bleed may work but I've never tried it on a clutch.

Best thing is to flush your brake system at the same time. Start by sucking all the fluid you can out of the brake fluid resevoir with a vacuum pump or with a turkey baster. Then refill the resevoir and bleed each caliper or wheel cylinder until the fluid is as pristine as the new fluid in the bottle. Then do the same with the clutch. If you have not changed the brake fluid for a while, this is highly recommended.
 
Big Jim said:
It is similar to bleeding the brakes. The clutch fluid shares the brake fluid resevoir on top of the brake master cylinder. There is a hose from the resevoir down to the clutch master cylinder. It is just gravity feed to that point so nothing to bleed. Make sure the fluid resevoir is full before starting.

Locate the clutch slave bleeder on top of the bell housing. At least for the first time it helps to move the air intake tube between the air filter and the throttle body for access.

IIRC it is an 8mm or 9mm wrench size. Have someone pump the clutch pedal about 10 times. While they are holding it down, open the bleed port and allow whatever fluid will to squirt out. Near the end of the squirt, close the bleed port, and repeat the pump pedal and hold then bleed several times.

There are alternative ways. You can use a vacuum bleeder and draw fluid from the slave through the bleeder. Gravity bleed may work but I've never tried it on a clutch.

Best thing is to flush your brake system at the same time. Start by sucking all the fluid you can out of the brake fluid resevoir with a vacuum pump or with a turkey baster. Then refill the resevoir and bleed each caliper or wheel cylinder until the fluid is as pristine as the new fluid in the bottle. Then do the same with the clutch. If you have not changed the brake fluid for a while, this is highly recommended.
Click to expand...

Good lookin' out Big Jim, I'll do this probably tomorrow and report back. :cool:
 
It does sound like it is your slave or master. This happened on my maxima i would haft to bleed it almost everyday.Replaced the slave and worked for a little longer,replaced the master and looked like it fixed the problem. I cant wait to get back in my csvt i need to find a tranny just havent yet hopefully soon.
 
Could be your pressure plate is bad. Had the same problem. Couldn't shift into reverse, or 1st gear w/ the motoron. Had to turn off the motor, put it into gear and go. Even shifting into upper gears was difficult. Had to nearly jam it in.
When my mech opened the car up to change it, the PP springs fell out.
Basically, its LCF, Low Cycle Fatigue. I would have thought my clutch wore out long before the plate (155k miles).
Regarding buying the kit, if you buy the stock kit, SVT or standard 6 cyc kit, get it from a local Ford dealer (or have your mech get it). You won't save anything buying it online. (shipping will eat the dif). and the local dealer can get it the next day. Shipping to me from Nevada took a full week :( & the shipping cost $30+

A lot of the dealers are not aware of the kits, so will give you prices of each item separately which adds up real quick. Give the following p/n's
The p/n for the SVT kit is f7rz7l596ea, the reg 6 cyc kit is f7rz7l596ba.
 
Ric said:
Regarding buying the kit, if you buy the stock kit, SVT or standard 6 cyc kit, get it from a local Ford dealer (or have your mech get it). You won't save anything buying it online. (shipping will eat the dif).
Click to expand...

Post that price you paid.

Bill Jenkins pricing: Normal 2.5 kit with TOB is $200. $300 for SVT.
 
I posted a similar thread several days ago. My gut feel is that since the clutch is self adjusting and shares the brake fluid with the brakes it is unlikely that bleeding will effect any sort of cure, I think with these symptoms after researching them, indicate that the adjustment travel is used up by the wear on the disc and the pressure plate is unable to fully release the disc, consequently the spinning flyweel and pressure plate still are contacting the disc itself and cause the shudder,creep, and prevent the tranny from being able to be put in gear. Just my 2 cents worth.
 
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Rick said:
I posted a similar thread several days ago. My gut feel is that since the clutch is self adjusting and shares the brake fluid with the brakes it is unlikely that bleeding will effect any sort of cure, I think with these symptoms after researching them, indicate that the adjustment travel is used up by the wear on the disc and the pressure plate is unable to fully release the disc, consequently the spinning flyweel and pressure plate still are contacting the disc itself and cause the shudder,creep, and prevent the tranny from being able to be put in gear. Just my 2 cents worth.
Click to expand...

This would not be the experience of many here in the past. Air can and does sometimes get into the clutch hydraulic system. Sharing the resevoir with the brakes has nothing to do with the posibility of air entering at the clutch master cylinder or clutch slave cylinder.

As mentioned before, air in the system is not the only cause, but it is easy to find out before pulling the trans out for repair.
 
I paid 206 for the std 6 cyc clutch kit.
dealer list is 221.
Even at 200 I'd get it from your local dealer. Unless they don't charge you the shipping for next day.
 
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