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Solid motor mounts

Z

z06killinsbf

CEG'er
Joined
Apr 4, 2008
Messages
171
Location
McKinney, TX
Anyone here experimented with running solid motor mounts? With as smooth as these engines are and with the ever breaking mounts, it might be a viable choice. My friend has solid mounts on his Mustang with a stout cam and other than a slight vibration at speed, it isn't obnoxious like you'd think. :shrug:

Begin....
 
I put on a polymount that Aussieford made....one day and I was done with it! Vibration was very distracting.
 
How "solid?" A lot of people run 94A poly mounts which is pretty stiff stuff. I made myself 60A and 80A mounts, and those still add to NVH quite a bit compared to stock.
 
I made a solid Al insert for the rear roll resistor on my old CSVT. I pressed and loctited that one in. I was working on an insert for the front roll resistor, i just never got around to milling flats on it to fit the front mount. There was a noticeable difference once I put it in. The dash and interior buzzed to the engine rpms. I also had MSDS headers,cat delete pipe and trubendz cat back with the magnaflow muffler. All that didn't help either, Konis and GC's slammed,started installing rod ends where ever possible...yada yada yada.

Soild inserts will make a huge diffference and you'll know you have them.
 
Parts have to move. You put solid in and where the mounts bolt to engine and transmission you run the risk of pulling the bolts out. The rear especially. I drove on SVT with a solid rear and it was awful to drive as far as vibration goes. I don't like my daily to fell like a full race car. I put solid aluminum inserts in the subframe of my SHO. Subframe cracked all around it and had to replace the entire SF. Do what you want but I don't think it's wise.
 
You installed metal motor mounts into a car and it only has a slight vibration? Either he's running a prototype electrical engine that doesnt vibrate or you're exaggerating.
 
With my 94A mounts, and DMD I still get a fair ammount of vibration. Although its not nearly as much vibration as I had in my Zetec ATX.
 
I just think we're arguing the difference in how tight a vagina is here guys...

I havent noticed any measurable increase in vibration after my pole mount, and plant to upgrade the rest now.

try 94a rr's first, then you might try a welded front mount, but leave the back poly.

although, none of these are "engine mounts"

I'd personally like to change the fluid filled driver side upper mount for something more solid...
 
I had all stock mounts except for the AL inserted rear roll resistor.....my dash buzzed all the time. I still have the insert I started for the front roll resistor. The next one would have been the passenger side engine mount. if you don't mind your car buzzing to the revs give'er otherwise forgetaboutit
 
how close to done is the front insert? what sort of money are we talking for it?

I've played with the idea if welding plate on my front, since the front isn't the one that needs to move...
 
I filled my front and rear roll restrictors with 94A compound. Sure launching is great but driving the car sucked. Unless you are building a track only car don't install solid mounts.
 
its all opinions guys, personally, you'd never notice any vibration in my car over the two tens in the trunk pushing 123db. the cord to my radar detector vibrates to the subs like a guitar string.

but even with them off, the dash only vibrates at a very specific rpm, and only does so briefly as you pass through that resonance band. it's not bad at all, for me anyways. but if you want your car to ride cushy like grandma's gran marquis, you probably shouldn't be asking about any performance related parts at all.

"the engine is too loud, the shocks are too stiff, why are you driving so crazy!"
 
It just needs to be milled to fit in the mount.....I have access to a mill. BUT, i work 12's so i'm smoked by the end of the shift. i also don't know how my company looks upon people doing government work off the clock. The guys in the tooling area are kinda iffy in my eyes anyways.


My last job I would do it after work,while on the clock or just have one of the machinists/die makers finish it. Nobody cared there.....it was a disease.
 
damn, oh well. I dont have access to a mill either. it did give me an idea though, if I could locate a piece of aluminum with the right sized hole in it that was smaller than the rr housing, I could glue it into the housing with 94a...
 
If you want a solid Al rear roll resistor I know where my old one is. It was pulled off my old car and a fellow ceger has it now. i would strongly recommend having it machined to size and pressed in.

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