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Replacing OIL MTX

I

intravino

CEG'er
Joined
Sep 9, 2004
Messages
169
Location
Montreal
Hey Guys !

My Mystique 96 Zetec has 160 000 Miles on it and I never changed the MTX oil ?

Should I change it? If yes, with what kind of oil?

I also noticed that my seal on my MTX that connects to the axle is leaking, should I use a ticker oil in meantime before changing the seal?


Thanks for your time,

Intravino
 
well the mtx doesn't use gear oil so you can't just put a heavier oil in it.

you can however drain the transmission and repalce the seals.

refill with Ford Honey, or syncromax. there are also some other ones that could be used.

as for changing it, your call. shouldn't do any harm that I am aware of.
 
I used Ford Honey, payed a little under 60 bucks at a ford dealer and had a bit left. Its been smooth and solid ever since.
 
intravino said:
Hey Guys !

My Mystique 96 Zetec has 160 000 Miles on it and I never changed the MTX oil ?

Should I change it? If yes, with what kind of oil?

I also noticed that my seal on my MTX that connects to the axle is leaking, should I use a ticker oil in meantime before changing the seal?


Thanks for your time,

Intravino
Click to expand...

does it still shift smooth without any issues? if so you could probably just make sure to keep it full until you can get the seals changed. the fluid doesnt really break down in an MTX like it does in an ATX, not enough heat to do that. when you do replace the seals, i would just refill the trans with the standard Mercon, as that is what will be in it right now (and was the original spec) and its worked well for 15 years and 160K miles.

I personally have over 750K miles between 4 MTX75s and all have run nothing but the ATF without a single issue. It was the original spec, is cheap, and it works.
 
Oil

Oil

Thanks Guys!

What is Ford Honey?

I guess I need to take out the CV joint and Axle before changing the seals?

Is that a big job?


Thanks,

Intravino
 
intravino said:
Thanks Guys!

What is Ford Honey?

I guess I need to take out the CV joint and Axle before changing the seals?

Is that a big job?


Thanks,

Intravino
Click to expand...

Some people have trouble pulling the seals out without scratching the seal mateing surface, so be mindful of that when doing it.

Another tip, put the new seals in the freezer while you are working on getting the axels and old seals out. The cold will cause the material to constrict and can make it easier to get them installed.
 
CV Joint Axle

CV Joint Axle

Thanks guys for the Tips!!


How hard is to remove the inner axle (driver's side) ?
 
use an axle puller you can rent from an auto parts store...

if you use a sealpuller the seal should come out wit out problem.

to install the seal find a socket the size that fits on the outside edge of the seal and pound it in evenly. no need for the freezer.
 
There is never a 'need' for the freezer. Just helps, no loss to have them chilling while you do the rest of the work.

Also as newb said, if you employ the proper tool for each aspect of the job, it isn't difficult. But, I bet less than 50% of the forum members have seal pullers or sockets in the diameter of those seals.
 
Striker the voice of reason

Striker the voice of reason

Who woulda thunk! The only possible reason that you would put in $60 of oil in a transmission is because you have too much money. Use the recommended ford oil (I think mercon) and call it good. After all that is what you put 160k miles on already.

Seals can be a bugger to get out and put in. Sometimes you need to take a SHARP small chisel and try to collapse the outer ring of the seal, yes you will bugger the seat a bit but you can clean it up before you install a new seal with sealant (RTV) or if you are uncommonly rich something else expensive
 
Andreslobo

Andreslobo

Thanks Andreslobo :)


The chisel worked. I gave about 10-12 shots of the chisel and voila. When I saw the seal rotate, I knew that is done.

The seat was damaged a bit but I will put RTV.

Now, to install the new one!!!

Also, the goon service man that replaced my wheel bearing, damaged my ball joint, I need to replaced the fix original ball joint. I need to remove the rivets. I guess that the easiest way is the grind the bolts from the bottom ?



Many Thanks,



Intravino
 
don't know

don't know

Fortunately I have never have had to replace the ball joints on my conturd, so I don't know.''

On the seal seat, make certain that you clean it up before you install the new seal or it won't go in correctly. RTV or ask the parts man for the proper sealant.
 
just replace the whole control arm. they come with the ball joint and chances are the bushing are already shot and there is no other way of getting new ones.
 
just replace the whole control arm. they come with the ball joint and chances are the bushing are already shot and there is no other way of getting new ones.


It the one on the driver's side. I think it's a PITA to change ? Don't you have to lift the MTX to get to the bolts?



Thanks,
 
yes and no. if you lower that side of the subframe the bolt will come right out. others have also cut the bolt and replaced it by installing upside down. I do not recommend this method.
 
oil Again

oil Again

Thanks BrApple for the info, it's greatly appreciated.

On the subject of the MTX oil, here the Ford dealer is selling the MTX oil $ 25.00 a liter. I was trying to get the Royal Purple Synchromax but it's almost impossible to get in next few days and I want to finish with this Axle, Ball Joint and oil thing.

I asked RP about their recommendation on their website about 10w-40 because I can get easily RP 10W-40 at $ 10.00 a liter.

Here's the answer:


The MTX-75 has a viscosity similar to a light 40 weight or heavy 30 weight. For the closest match to the factory fluid either Royal Purple SAE 10W-40 or Royal Purple XPR 5W-30 would be the best choices. For colder weather, a lighter viscosity is typically beneficial. Functionally, Synchromax would likely work just fine. It is close to a light 20 weight in viscosity, but will still offer plenty of wear protection for the transmission. If you have seen reports that it works well in place of MTX-75, I see no reason not to use it in your circumstance.


Thanks for choosing Royal Purple and have a great day!


Thanks Intravino,
 
I still recommend Mercon as its cheap, easy to get a hold of, was the original spec, and it works fine.
 
I have Mercon in one of my 3Ls....Amsoil in another. I can't tell too much of a difference, but if I do...its that Mercon shifts better/smoother/easier....tho I guess that could be the differences in trannies...
 
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