Replaced my Subframe and possible How-to

[qbcsvt]

OK so I have or had that INFAMOUS CLUNK in the back by my rear tire.....
and srry it has been a while but I had the chance to do it today. My rear was up on jack stands.(Check the Pictures to have an idea where and what everything is.)

1. Im supposing you got your car jacked up or on a lift with the wheels off already. THERE IS ABSOLUTELY NO NEED TO REMOVE YOUR STRUTS/SPRINGS or even compress them(my car has a BAT Euro KIT)...

2. Remove your exhaust. The subframe is heavy and it will break something as it comes down to the floor.

3. I started in the middle by removing the REAR CONTROL ARMS(as mine were bent and are being replaced) from the REAR SUBFRAME.

4. I then unbolted the LATERAL CONRTOL ARMS(Has a Open C-Section) like from the R.SUBFRAME which are the ones closer to the Gas Tank.

5. I unbolted the LINKS that are on the LATERAL CONTROL ARMS from the SWAY BAR.(This would be a good time to check those bushings, Mine were messed up and are currently on order... You on the other had can be ready for this. They are fairly easy to change at a later time.)

6. Now here comes the EH part. The Four bolts that are holding the R.SUBFRAME up must be unbolted, but be careful that thing will call on your face.. Make sure to have an extra hand, jackstands, jack or something to hold it up, till you have control to let it down to the floor. The SWAY BAR will also come down with it.

Depending on what your setup is going to be or what you are going to do. All my steps are just reversed to put everything back. Make sure to check all bushings and relube everything.

I put on a BAT 21mm Sway Bar with Energy Suspension Bushings, BAT Reinforced Rear Subframe and I replaced my super bent Rear Control arms.

Green: BAT 21mm Rear Sway Bar
Light Blue: R.SWAY BAR BUSHING and Connection Hardware to the R.Subframe
Purple:LATERAL CONTROL ARMS(Looks like a C.) Open C section in stock form)
Yellow:LINKS that connect the R.SWAY BAR to the TUBULAR Control ARMS
Orange: Bolts and nut/washer on other side to remove R.CONTROL ARMS from the R.Subframe.
Black: Rear Control Arms in Red:shrug:

1. New R.CONTROL ARMS painted red.... I got them for free and I kinda liked them.
2. Old bent R.CONTROL ARMS need to be replaced....
3. Old and New BUSHINGS and Hardware to connect the SWAY BAR to the R.SUBFRAME.
4. New B.A.T. 21mm Rear SWAY BAR w/ bushings and Connection Hardware
5. Old " " " " " " " plain

Bottom 4 arrows show where the LATERAL CONTROL ARMS are connected.
Top two arrows show where the R.CONTROL ARMS are connected.
Two circles on each side show the holes that the BOLTS go through to hold the R.SUBFRAME to the car.
Yellow circles show where the SWAY BAR connects to the R.Subframe.

Hope this helps the next person on their clunking issue. GL.

After I bought my REAR SUBFRAME from BAT, I found out Bradness makes them after my purchase or sumthing like that and is the man for all things suspension. To open up your options.

 

[Thinkmoto]

I too can also reinforce the sway bar mounts.

 

[Bradness]

How about posting pix of the other control arms? I'd like to see these tubular control arms you're referring to. Are you referring to the main lateral control arms? In stock form, they're an open C section. Of course, I modify them. The stock trailing/longitudinal arms are round, but not tubes. Tubing implies a hollow piece of material.

Your toe arms look racey in red, but unless they're reinforced with extra plates, they will bend/distort just like your unpainted set. Or the rubber bushings will go...

 

[qbcsvt]

I thought u would chime in Bradness. but only for the better.... The Tubular control arms i am refering to ARE indeed the C section lateral control arms.

and I kinda like the red as well. good thing you cant really see it when the car sits on the ground its just to much.

My "lateral control arms" are not reinforced and the R.Control arms arent either... Ill keep an eye on them and if they do bent.... I know who to talk to now......

- Amyn

 

[Bradness]

Amyn: The situation you're describing is additional negative camber. (possibly you could describe it for others looking at this thread.) If you replaced the springs while you did your subframe upgrades and they're of the lowering variety, that would explain why you now have the wheels tilted inwards (more) at the top. This will help cornering, but if it's extreme will cause excess tire wear.

Regarding tubular control arms, I'm not aware of anyone who made/sold them for the main (forward) lateral arms at the rr of our cars. I looked in to doing them as did Brad Noon. For various reasons, which I won't extrapolate here, they were not viable. What I did do was box, rebush and slot the stockers. I made them with solid alloy bushings and offset poly bushings so the camber can be adjustable.

 

[qbcsvt]

I did not replace the springs as I did all of this... But i Do and did have the BAT Euro kit on before this.. Maybe I dont have something set properly under there as I saw there are Some type of "adjustable Screw/Bolt" for the camber or something of that sort for the real wheels adjusting the Rear Control Arms.

Can this be my issue?

- Amyn

 

[Thinkmoto]

Amyn: Regarding tubular control arms, I'm not aware of anyone who made/sold them for the main (forward) lateral arms at the rr of our cars. I looked in to doing them as did Brad Noon. For various reasons, which I won't extrapolate here, they were not viable. What I did do was box, rebush and slot the stockers. I made them with solid alloy bushings and offset poly bushings so the camber can be adjustable.

I made a single set and was working on a few different designs a few years back with POle. He has my first set somewhere I think? They have been never tried on a car though. I wasn't 100% satisified with the end results.

 

[bensenvill]

Regarding tubular control arms, I'm not aware of anyone who made/sold them for the main (forward) lateral arms at the rr of our cars. I looked in to doing them as did Brad Noon. For various reasons, which I won't extrapolate here, they were not viable. What I did do was box, rebush and slot the stockers. I made them with solid alloy bushings and offset poly bushings so the camber can be adjustable.

there are 2 or 3 sets floating around neco. I've only had a quick look at one of the sets so I can't fully comment on them [but that car has been flogged pretty heavily and they seem to be holding up].

anyways brad I forgot you started offering an adjustable version, I'll be contacting you in the near future for a set.

 

[jaysturbozx10r]

thats some fancy hardware on the the bottom of your car, lookin good