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replace water pump

I havnt spotted units other than the Motorcraft part that come with the short hoses. If Im going to replace the waterpump, I might as well replace the short hoses, right ? Although that one hose that snakes under the UIM looks like a PITA.

Advance auto only seems to have the impeller part for sale, not the entire housing. Im still looking though.

thanks,

Mad Dog
 
I might be a little late, but IMHO I would get the OEM Motorcraft part from the dealer. The pump assembly comes with all new hoses (already attached to) and then there is no question. This way, as far as getting the old hose clamps of, the hoses can be cut out in pieces if need be. This is what I did, and I think it was the right choice. That one hose under the TB/intake is tough to get to, and the clamp pliers don't fit under there very well. I remember it took me a while to get that one connected. I think I sprayed some WD40 on the inside of the hose to help it slip over the fitting though. It is pretty tight in there, and I hade some scraped up knuckles after, but wasn't too bad.

Brian
 
I am shopping around for the Motorcraft part right now. One more question: I have seen 1 or 2 reports that it requires 3 TTY bolts as opposed to re-using the original 3 mounting bolts. Is this true ? I cant imagine using one-time bolts for something like this.

thanks,

Mad Dog
 
I am shopping around for the Motorcraft part right now. One more question: I have seen 1 or 2 reports that it requires 3 TTY bolts as opposed to re-using the original 3 mounting bolts. Is this true ? I cant imagine using one-time bolts for something like this.

thanks,

Mad Dog

Reusing the bolts is fine. I also recommend going with the Motorcraft pump and housing assembly
No issues. No leaky gaskets down the road.
 
That doesn't sound too bad. I paid around $165 at the dealer (it lists for around $190). Just FYI, the part number should be XS2Z-8501-EA.

Brian
 
I checked the Ford Part website before I ordered. It always pays to check first.

thanks,

Mad Dog
 
Last edited:
DONE ! I was fortunate to have a friend (thanks Ken !) who was willing to help. Given that, I no longer had a great fear of screwing up my DD. Total time to replace the upper radiator hose and the water pump was ~5 hours, including a lunch break and run to an O'Reilly's Auto store.

If I had to do this myself, it probably would of taken the entire day as I puzzled out how to get the hose clamps off. DAMN, Ford, why did you have to run so many coolant hoses all over the freaking engine bay ? And seriously, for the coolant intake that sits right under the UIM, why didnt you put a 90 degree bend on it ?

We ended up removing the airbox, accordion, battery and battery box. The hose came off first, then the waterpump. The hose that goes under the UIM, and the small hose that trails from the bottom of the waterpump were the real PITA. A 11" needle nose plier with the 90 degree bend is a MUST.

The Motorcraft parts had an excellent fit, no troubles at all other than snaking them back into crowded spaces.

Ken showed me an excellent trick - use 70% isopropanol to wet the hoses and it becomes much easier to slide the hoseclamps around. It evaporates quickly, leaving no residue.

Thanks to everyone for the information which helped give me the confidence to get serious.

thanks,

Mad Dog
 
well.....although this deserves a thread by itself, I will say that I was thinking of BAT Euro kit and new sway bar, strut tower and other misc suspension bits. I figure the most likely candidate for failure with 224K miles on the clock is the suspension.

thanks,

Mad Dog
 
Agree with you on the suspension update. Nothing more fun, to me, than taking the twisties with a nicely done up suspension that is more than up to the job. Keep on keeping on!!!
 
Thats the plan - Order from BAT soon. I really like the idea of reinforcing the rear sub-frame, but I think thats a tad aggressive for me now.

thanks,

Mad Dog
 
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