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Reinforcing My Rear Anti Roll Bar Mounts

J

JCTH1

CEG'er
Joined
Nov 10, 2006
Messages
110
Location
Bridgwater, Somerset, England
Anyone able to tell me how to do this please. Im going to be getting the Bat 21mm Rear ARB and i need to reinforce my one (18mm) after i get it shot blasted so i can get the rear subframe re primered.

Also whilst im at it should i have any bits of metal welded to to strengthen the rear subframe again after shot blasting.

Pics welcomed.

jcth1
 
subframe pics

subframe pics

Here is a picture of one of the subframes I reinforced. Its an easy job to do. I strongly recommend TIG welding these in place. You can stitch weld the subfrma eto beef it up alittle also. I believe robert mumm welded in some plates on his race cougar. Go to his website it should still be up http://www.mummbrothers.com/T2_Stuff/T2Main.htm
 
It's an "easy job to do" IF you're an experienced welder. Not many people have TIG welders in their garage as they're much more expensive than a MIG plus working with TIG takes much more practice/experience than a MIG.

Those digipix show a subframe which has had the original "socket" cut away completely. If you do this type of mod you will also need to get a set of aftermarket brackets & bushings and you better have fabricating equipment and experience as this job is not for the beginner.

I have reinforced many subframes for use with both aftermarket brackets AND for use with the stock brackets. Both work equally well, but there's much more work involved going the aftermarket route. Plus the high pressure fuel lines come very close (or touch) the new socket on the passenger side of the subframe when you do aftermarket method.

I presently run a beefed up stock socket with the later brackets and a BAT 21mm sway bar. My subframe was done nearly 5 years ago and I've never had any additional problems with it. I push my car very hard in corners....
 
Why is it everyone finds TIG welding to be harder? You have complete control of everything. I dunno I still feel TIG is easier and cutting out the old mounts isn't hard at all. I always cut one side out at a time then align it tack it in place then do the next side. I also bring the new sway bar and mounts and bolt them up before I finish weld it to double check the measurements. If all looks good and it doesn't bind anywhere I burn them in.
 
Thinkmoto said:
Why is it everyone finds TIG welding to be harder? You have complete control of everything.
Click to expand...

You're implying (intended or otherwise) that TIG is easier than MIG? I can do both and if you simply look at industrial welding applications the prime method is MIG. There are good reasons for this. Now I'm not talking about welding pipelines or strutures like bridges.

MIG is much easier to learn. Set up the machine and pull the trigger. Can you say the same for TIG? Which method is quicker? Consumables are more expensive with TIG. A TIG welder is much more expensive than a MIG.

You don't have "complete control", as you call it, with MIG? I do. TIG is primarily used for aluminum and stainless, and using it for mild steel is simply a waste of time & argon UNLESS you have to make your weld job pretty.
 
Bradness said:
Plus the high pressure fuel lines come very close (or touch) the new socket on the passenger side of the sub frame when you do after market method.
Click to expand...

If you trim the bracket correctly, this issue is easily avoided. I'm with Tony on this one. I've had two of his sub frames on my cars and i'd have him build another any day.

I'm not saying you don't do good work Brad, I've never seen it. Just stating my personal experience with Tony's method.
 
Bradness said:
It's an "easy job to do" IF you're an experienced welder. Not many people have TIG welders in their garage as they're much more expensive than a MIG plus working with TIG takes much more practice/experience than a MIG.

Those digipix show a subframe which has had the original "socket" cut away completely. If you do this type of mod you will also need to get a set of aftermarket brackets & bushings and you better have fabricating equipment and experience as this job is not for the beginner.

I have reinforced many subframes for use with both aftermarket brackets AND for use with the stock brackets. Both work equally well, but there's much more work involved going the aftermarket route. Plus the high pressure fuel lines come very close (or touch) the new socket on the passenger side of the subframe when you do aftermarket method.

I presently run a beefed up stock socket with the later brackets and a BAT 21mm sway bar. My subframe was done nearly 5 years ago and I've never had any additional problems with it. I push my car very hard in corners....
Click to expand...

thanks for the links. Will probaly source some box section and either have the right place drill holes done to it or get it properly tapped to take the bolt.

Much beefier than the stock setup and only asking as im going down the BAT 21mm bar route but wont be pushing like you V6 guys. Its just to make sure it dont come apart should i do push it and it breaks.

Some bigger more detailed pics would be good though.

jcth1
 
Bradness said:
You're implying (intended or otherwise) that TIG is easier than MIG? I can do both and if you simply look at industrial welding applications the prime method is MIG. There are good reasons for this. Now I'm not talking about welding pipelines or strutures like bridges.

MIG is much easier to learn. Set up the machine and pull the trigger. Can you say the same for TIG? Which method is quicker? Consumables are more expensive with TIG. A TIG welder is much more expensive than a MIG.

You don't have "complete control", as you call it, with MIG? I do. TIG is primarily used for aluminum and stainless, and using it for mild steel is simply a waste of time & argon UNLESS you have to make your weld job pretty.
Click to expand...

Sorry its not a waste of argon or material to each his own. You have more control with TIG nuff said. I TIG all materials becasue it's pretty and strong. Too much spatter with MIG. And yes I know how to weld and set up a MIG welder.
 
anyone willing to make me up a set of those mounts so i can get my mate to weld them in. obviously i know they would need to be shipped to the uk but im not worried about that.

you guys know what your doing and if the price is right i would be very interested in getting some fabricated and sent over.

jcth1
 
JCTH1 said:
anyone willing to make me up a set of those mounts so i can get my mate to weld them in. obviously i know they would need to be shipped to the uk but im not worried about that.

you guys know what your doing and if the price is right i would be very interested in getting some fabricated and sent over.

jcth1
Click to expand...

Take a good look at the pic and give a copy to any fabricator. All I do is cut a piece of box stock in half drill the mount holes and weld in nuts for the swaybar mounts. Cut out the old mounts and weld in the new. Obviously align everything before tacking and finishing welding. I find it rather easy but thats me.
 
Thinkmoto said:
Take a good look at the pic and give a copy to any fabricator. All I do is cut a piece of box stock in half drill the mount holes and weld in nuts for the swaybar mounts. Cut out the old mounts and weld in the new. Obviously align everything before tacking and finishing welding. I find it rather easy but thats me.
Click to expand...

okies cool. will do and thanks for the post up.

Is there anything else i could have done as i have 2 spare subframes plus the 3rd on my mondeo at the moment to play around with.

jcth1
 
JCTH1 said:
okies cool. will do and thanks for the post up.

Is there anything else i could have done as i have 2 spare subframes plus the 3rd on my mondeo at the moment to play around with.

jcth1
Click to expand...

Take a look at the link to the mumm brothers website. If you really wanted you could add some plates and stitch weld the whole subframe. Just don't go too crazy and distort the subframe. Also while under the mondeo check for clearance issues before removing the subframe. I have run into problems on contour se's. Good old ford made different gas tanks through the years for these cars so clearance can be limited from car to car.
 
Thinkmoto said:
Take a look at the link to the mumm brothers website. If you really wanted you could add some plates and stitch weld the whole subframe. Just don't go too crazy and distort the subframe. Also while under the mondeo check for clearance issues before removing the subframe. I have run into problems on contour se's. Good old ford made different gas tanks through the years for these cars so clearance can be limited from car to car.
Click to expand...


Sounds like you guys have had some right issues with the contours. Apart from the later interior differences i believe the suspension you guys had 98 onwards we got with a facelift (mk2 in 96) and AFAIK the fuel tanks are the same through out mk1 and mk2 lifespan. Ive owned a 93 1.8 Zetec, 99 ST24, 98 TD and now a 97 TD and everything underneath apart from obvious differences have been the same.

jcth1
 
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