Rear Suspension . Drivers side. Something's missing!

[Sudzy]

Just stuck camera under car and started shooting, trying to identify noise.
This is rear drivers side. So, is it the stablizer end link? sway bar that I'm looking at? Sorry about pic, had to resize. Might need to reshoot with different camera setting.
THANK YOU!! Sudzy




And, would you say that's way too much rust? or about normal? 1997 GL; ATX; 2.0

 

[dennyb]

all I see in the picture is the bump stop in the center of the picture. It has a small rubber pad on the frame side and the "ear" on the back of the strut contacts it at full extension.

 

[Sudzy]

Half way up, to the right. There are two holes. I thought something was suppose to be in there?

 

[BAD SVT]

Thats quite a bit of rust. If u ever plan on replacing a suspension part, u're gonna be in a world of hurt. lol. And the holes u speak of are supposed to be that way. Nuthn goes in them.

 

[striker2]

yeah, nothing goes there. they are alignment holes, used for aligning the subframe during install.

 

[Sudzy]

Thanks you guys. I thought I was missing something, glad to hear that I'm not. And, yes. Next week -end suppose to replace rear struts. Julian, you just helped me make a decision. Choices: $220. at great mechanics shop or; $140. at fairly good back yard mechanic.

Rust..dang. the front end is worse. Is this car worth fixin? I've got front struts to do too. I think t-rods and end-links are ok. But, just found out that my motor mounts are in bad shape. Only had car a few months.. Havent even got to reg. maintance yet, except for oil change. The radiator drain-off tank has rust in the bottom which is a concern.
Much appreciate your input. Sudzy
Heres a pic. of her.

 

[BAD SVT]

Well, if its the only car u've got, & the engine is fine, then sure, fix it. Its awfully hard to screw up replacing suspension parts. They either fit or not. So if u wanna save the 80bux, then go the backyard mech route. However, if u plan on doing all of that, its gonna run u a bit @ the shop. I'd suggest u try n learn how to do them urself. At this point in the life of our cars, they're generally only worth owning if u can fix issues urself. If not, u'll be spending a lotta dough @ the shop. Just my 2cents...

Edit- U're in illinois it looks like. So i'd get to know the forum members where u are. They might be able to help u out. Look in the section that covers ur area.

 

[gferr56]

I agree with BAD SVT, so does that make is 4 cents worth of advice...

I really like paying $0 / month for my car. And even though creaky bones are becoming an issue, I am still learning every time I crawl under to fix something...

Rust is something you deal with on daily drivers... Break Free, is your friend... and my favorite is 50/50 mix of acetone / ATF.... takes a few minutes more to wick, but definitely works better at making impossible bolts manageable.

 

[Sudzy]

IRust is something you deal with on daily drivers... Break Free, is your friend... and my favorite is 50/50 mix of acetone / ATF.... takes a few minutes more to wick, but definitely works better at making impossible bolts manageable.

I'm with you about no payments! Thanks for the above info, much appreciated.

Question: Is there any SAFE product that I can use on the underbelly (rusting through) to stop the rust without having to take any parts off? I don't mind getting under a car on jack stands to apply product. But dang, I'm near gasoline!. Sudzy

 

[gferr56]

I'm with you about no payments! Thanks for the above info, much appreciated.

Question: Is there any SAFE product that I can use on the underbelly (rusting through) to stop the rust without having to take any parts off? I don't mind getting under a car on jack stands to apply product. But dang, I'm near gasoline!. Sudzy

Check out POR15... Hven't used it personally, but heard great revues from those who have...

http://www.por15.com/

 

[98 Contour]

Check out POR15... Hven't used it personally, but heard great revues from those who have...

http://www.por15.com/

POR15 is a great product, but you will have to knock off any loose rust, and scuff up the metal a bit to make it work. If you apply it to smooth, bare metal, it will flake right off, at least in my experiences.

Another good product to check out is Eastwood Rust encapsulator. I haven't used it yet, but from people I've talked to who have, it's a bit more user friendly.