rear rotors rusted to the hub

[SVTJON87]

I am replacing my brakes and the rear rotors are rusted to the hub. i have soaked them in PB for the past 3 days as well as hammering and using a MAP-pro gas torch. I did search around but i still have some questions.

I am afraid of hammering them to hard as i don't want to damage the wheel bearing. Also i am worried about using to much heat and damaging the bearing.

I have been able to hold the edge of the rotor when I'm heating the rotor hat or after i have heated it just to give you an idea how hot i am getting them.

how hot can i get them without damaging the bearing?

I'm using a ball peen hammer so its not that heavy. but still not giving the rotor hell. just being careful to not damage the bearing.

thanks for your help.

 

[blu_fuz]

cut some lines across the rotor with a right angle grinder and cutting wheel. Then smack away until it breaks apart. Put antisiez on the new rotor and hub when installing.

 

[SVTJON87]

cut some lines across the rotor with a right angle grinder and cutting wheel. Then smack away until it breaks apart. Put antisiez on the new rotor and hub when installing.

yeah i don't have an angle grinder i bet these are the original rear rotors. antiseize always gets used on new installs.

 

[SVTJON87]

well very good news. i guess 3 days of soaking in PB worked. one hit of the weight of a 3lb hammer popped them both off. i was just being WAY WAY WAY to gentle.

 

[Big Jim]

I use a three pounder when removing rusted on rotors too. They seldom give much trouble with that much persuasion.

Make sure you thoroughly wire brush the hub before the new rotors go on to remove all the rust you can. If you don't, they will rust again, even with anti-seize. The rust will also keep the rotor from seating to the hub properly causing some rotor run-out.

 

[ScottyDsntKnow]

I used a huge dead blow hammer. Not metal headed, just a big honking heavy piece of plastic. Came off after a few spirited hits. Good to hear you got the rotor off, if the other one gives you trouble just beat the crap out of it. It'll come off.

 

[SVTJON87]

both rears came off with one hit. the fronts will not be any problem because i had then off a couple years ago and put anti-seize on them.

i used a wire wheel on a drill to clean the hub. got almost all the rust off for a near perfect flat surface.

the rear brake line to hard line was really easy to get off on both rears. im putting on SS lines all the way around as well.

 

[ScottyDsntKnow]

Hope your e brake cables are in better shape than mine... They were stuck so bad they were pulling on the levers of the calipers and would not budge one bit. Probably why my e brake was a joke. Ah well, another piece of the saga that is becoming my rear brake swap...

 

[SVTJON87]

Hope your e brake cables are in better shape than mine... They were stuck so bad they were pulling on the levers of the calipers and would not budge one bit. Probably why my e brake was a joke. Ah well, another piece of the saga that is becoming my rear brake swap...

yeah it is in good shape thankfully. they were just a pain to get out of the hole in the caliper. the only issue is that the passenger side cable boot was ripped a little. ill see if some rtv can help fix it and kinda glue it back together.

 

[ScottyDsntKnow]

Yeah once those boots go then water gets in and runs all the way down to the bottom of the bend in the cable where it comes up initially. I had a HUGE rust bubble in there, the skin was burst and the cable was literally stuck. I'd get that boot fixed asap if you can.

 

[SVTJON87]

i have no idea how long it has been ripped. or how many winters it has gone through like that. the parking brake froze one winter and i had to drive home with the rears almost locked up. thankfully it was snowing out and i could drive slow and well slide around without looking like an idiot. can you buy just the boot? they look like they are permanently on there. im not going to drop the exhaust to replace the cables now.