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Rear control arm question

C

CSVT1214

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Nov 1, 2003
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Location
Plainville, CT
My rear suspension has been driving me insane for a long time now and it's time to get rid of the clunking. Earlier this year I had the front LCAs with ball joints, outter tie rods, and sway bar end links replaced. At the same time, the rear sway bar bushings, end links, and end link grommets were replaced. The car handles awesome now, but sounds like complete crap.

I'm buying new rear control arms and "tie rod" bushings. Now I see in the picture, one of the control arms has bushings on both ends, but the other has a bushing on only one side. Is there a bushing that needs to be bought seperately? I've never really done any suspension work. I just buy the parts and have someone do it.

FMP100.gif
 
Big Jim said:
I saw a lot of rear suspension noise problems from the rear sway bar. Usually it was from distorted bushing brackets.
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Well that wasn't the question I was asking, but what problems could be with the sway bar? The bushings are new and greased, along with new end links.

I was asking about the control arm. Do I need to order seperate bushings for the control arm that only has the bushing built in on one side? The other arm shows bushings on both sides.
 
I'm

I'm

I'm doing the same thing..and have the same question.

New TCA'a
New Boxed control arms
New poly bushings for the trailing arms
New poly bushings for the sway bar

It seems strange that there isn't a bsuhing needed for the boxed arm..the one side has a big open space...
 
iluvmytour said:
It seems strange that there isn't a bsuhing needed for the boxed arm..the one side has a big open space...
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Well if you had actually looked at where it connects to the knuckle you will know why. Me thinks there might be something there that "fills" that space :ponder:
 
KingpinSVT said:
Well if you had actually looked at where it connects to the knuckle you will know why. Me thinks there might be something there that "fills" that space :ponder:
Click to expand...

I know there is a bushing there, but I haven't taken anything off yet to look at how it's all setup.

Is the bushing part of the knuckle completely or can it be bought seperate? If so, part number anyone?

EDIT - Ok, I understand it better now. 2 bushings built right into the knuckle, but can the bushings be bought seperate or have to buy a new knuckle?
 
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I wish I still had my suspension apart so I could just snap a pic for you. I dont remember there being a rubber bushing in the knuckle, but just a metal ear that the MCA spans. I havent heard of anyone replacing a rear knuckle for a MCA bushing. . . . :shrug:
 
Tony if you come threw RI again I can take a look. :) Check to make sure the link bolts are tight. I had one loose and make a clunk. If you open a rear door and step-up and bounce the car will it make the noise?

I've done my share of rear suspension work...

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KingpinSVT said:
I wish I still had my suspension apart so I could just snap a pic for you. I dont remember there being a rubber bushing in the knuckle, but just a metal ear that the MCA spans. I havent heard of anyone replacing a rear knuckle for a MCA bushing. . . . :shrug:
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From a rear control arm thread on the old forums.
DSC08931b.jpg


2 bushings that look to be built into the knuckle. Those are the 2 I'm wondering about. If I buy the trailing arm, a new bushing is only on one side, the other bushing in the knuckle, same goes for one of the control arms.

So now I'm wondering how to go about replacing the bushings in the knuckle? Replaceable part or whole knuckle needed?
 
Glad you found a pic, cause I really wasnt sure. I dont know how you would go about fixing those. Obviously at a min. you would have to get them pressed in. Maybe Pole or Bradness could chime in, as they are the ones who have made headway in suspension design.
 
When you had your suspension replaced, did they shorten the bump stops (part # 10 on the scematic)?
 
To make it simple for you... Both bushings in the knuckle are available from Ford. It has been my experience that the lateral arm bushing in the knuckle goes prior to the trailing arm bushing. As a matter of fact, I just replaced 1. You'll need a hydraulic or arbor press and a set of dies.

Unless you like harshness, stay away from poly anywhere in the trailing arm. It's OK to use in the lateral arms although I like to have rubber at 1 end.

You in agreement Chris?
 
Bradness said:
To make it simple for you... Both bushings in the knuckle are available from Ford. It has been my experience that the lateral arm bushing in the knuckle goes prior to the trailing arm bushing. As a matter of fact, I just replaced 1. You'll need a hydraulic or arbor press and a set of dies.

Unless you like harshness, stay away from poly anywhere in the trailing arm. It's OK to use in the lateral arms although I like to have rubber at 1 end.

You in agreement Chris?
Click to expand...

About the wear in the knucle or the poly in the rear? The only poly I have in the rear is the sway bar bushings, but as soon as your TCAs arrive I suppose that will change. There is still a very small amount of slop that I am fairly certain is coming from the rear suspension. I have triple checked all the work I have done already, and I am suspecting it is coming from whatever old bushings are left in the suspension (trailing arms, toe arms, or knucle). I am waiting on the TCAs as those will eliminate one possibility. I notice the 'slop' while hitting a bump mid turn, and the back end seems to shift to the side and back every so slightly. My rear still has not been aligned, but the symptoms seem to lead me to think that old bushings are allowing a bit of play.

Im not sold on replacing with poly, based on your arguments. However, I dont have a way to press in new rubber bushings (into the trailing arms and the knuckle). Im not sure how Im going to approach this situation if it is not worn toe arms.
 
Chris: My comment was meant to solicit your opinions about the handling of your car. I forgot that you still have the old stamped steel toe arms and I would guess that all/most of the movement is attributable to them.

The trailing arm bushings are very soft when compared to those in both lateral arms. Ford engineers did this for a reason and I keep telling everyone here not to use poly there. Porsche engineers did exactly the same thing in the 911. The trailing arms use the same bushings at both ends with the only difference being that 1 bushing is pressed in to the arm and one is pressed in to the knuckle.

There are only 2 seperately available suspension arm bushings at the rr of our cars. The first as I mentioned is in the trailing arm (both ends). The second stiffer rubber bushing is used at the knuckle for the main arms and at both ends of the toe arms. Unfortunately, the inner bushing for the main arm is a different animal and Ford doesn't supply it seperately. Once I even replaced the toe arm bushings but the arms bent shortly thereafter. Live and learn.

When you're mounting the tubular TCA's have a close look at the MCA bushing in the knuckle. It will be necessary to unbolt the main arm to see it. If the rubber is cracked and breaking apart/away from the inner metal sleeve, you need new ones. The press in/out job is a PITA as the knuckle must be removed from the car, the complete rotor, brake caliper & bracket and ABS sensor (if you have it) removed and then press out the old bushing and press in a new one. I have a spare set of rr knuckles for times (like now) when the bushing goes. Can't complain as those knuckles/bushings are from my 95 which would have been 12 yrs old early next yr. The spare knuckles I have are from a 98 and they're in worse shape than mine. Maybe something to do with the other mods I've done...
 
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